Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

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A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

We had one afternoon, one full day and two nights to explore Cinque Terre, a coast on the Italian Riviera consisting of five villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).

We stayed in Corniglia, climbing 365 steps to reach the town’s center as it sits the highest above the water. We were greeted by our AirBnBer’s father, Beppe. He spoke very little English but that didn’t stop him from giving us a full tour of the apartment and how to use everything in it – using hand gestures and facial expressions until we completely understood every point. He left us with coffee, tea, his homemade jam and crackers. The apartment was adorable but really not meant for anyone over 5’6″. At 6’5″, Jon spent most of his time sitting or hunched over (even in the shower).

The area really seems to take advantage of the off-season, as many shops and restaurants were closed. Unfortunately this meant that most of the hiking trails were closed as well which is what you come to Cinque Terre to do! We made the most of it. We explored our village on our first night then dined while overlooking the ridge and water. As this is a quieter area with zero nightlife, we took advantage of the evenings to relax… to cuddle up with a movie and get some very needed sleep after the hustle of Rome.

On our full day, we used the local train to visit each village since most trails were closed. We saw churches, ruins of castles, beaches and more… We ate gelato and soaked our feet in the Caspian Sea… We peeked our heads into shops, loving the handmade items and the boutiques… We got more gelato and started our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It was so warm, I couldn’t imagine how hot would be in summer. We came across small ledges and adorable bridges. We saw stunning views of the villages. We watched the sun begin to set as we arrived in Monterosso and drank wine by the water in the final moments of it’s descent.

It was perfect. It was romantic. I got lost in each moment then the reality of sharing in it with my ex-ish boyfriend began to set in. It was easy to sink back into ‘us’, but what divided us originally came to the surface again. We had a few long talks about everything there could possibly be to talk about. My heart was beginning to tear again but I wanted to enjoy my last few days with the man that I love so dearly, even if it meant there was no future. I had to reset my brain to focus on enjoying this time together.

Moments in Cinque Terre:
Using a bidet for the first time… I’m not sure if I did it right but it sure did feel wrong.
-Taking the train to each village and walking around… though they are close, they are all unique and have distinct vibes and sights.
-Eating gelato and hiking. Does it get any better?
-The views from on the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.
-Finding another random cat sanctuary on our hike… Why are there so many strays in Italy?

Food and drink highlights:
-We had the tastiest gelato at the beginning of our hike in Vernazza… we ate gelato every day but this was our favorite.
-The food was not worth mentioning except for one dish… this region is known for their pesto and we certainly discovered why (I wish I knew their secret)!
-We had wine made from the grapes in the region, that was a treat!

Language highlights:
hand gestures: they can communicate more than you’d think (especially if you are Italian!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 4
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 103
CURRENCIES: 5

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Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

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Quickie in Kraków

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe –  thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

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Berlin, it’s been real.

Berlin is the first time I’ve been truly ‘alone’ on this trip (alone in the sense of not staying with friends in the places I’ve visited). I had my first couch surfing experience with a couple named Jan and Melli. I was a bit nervous at first – we grow up in such a culture of fear in the States but the more I travel, the more I am trusting my instincts and the good in other people. I don’t feel alone at all, but rather a part of something bigger than myself.

5 Days in Berlin:
-Being given ‘house shoes’ by Jan, this seems to be a very common thing in Germany
-Babies, left in carriages outside while the parents run in to grab a pastry or complete an errand… while this is normal here, I joked that there was an American on the lose with a ticking biological clock!
My first night in Berlin: Jan and Melli made a pasta dinner, after which we sipped on scotch and discussed both German and American politics
Highlights from the New Europe walking tour with a Brit named Rob McCracken: Brandenburg Gate, the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from the 3rd floor window, the Reichstag government building, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, standing 4 meters above the führerbunker where Hitler and his mistress swallowed cyanide capsules, the former headquarters of the Nazi air force (one of the only buildings remaining from this era to survive the WWII bombings), the Communist propaganda mural still up from post WWII, the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the French Cathedral built in 1705 and the German Cathedral built directly across from the French Cathedral in 1708 but 1 meter taller
-Seeing a bar that’s been open for 33 years straight (literally every minute of every day)
Highlights from the 666 Anti-Pub Crawl: Yesterday bar (a super tacky retro bar right up my ally), Absinthe bar (my first ’real’ absinthe shots), Dr. Pong (where I ended up in an around the world table tennis tournament), a dance club (with music dating to the early Now CDs) – I met some fun pre-med students studying in Copenhagen and got to use my Portuguese with some Brazilians. I didn’t get home until 6:30am and needless to say, I did not make it to my 8am tour of the Reichstag the following morning.
Highlights from Alternative Berlin’s Culture walking tour: Riding and walking for 5 hours through the neighborhoods of Prenzlauerberg, Mitte, Friedrichshain & Kreuzberg – learning of the rich, diverse and ever changing art and music culture in Berlin throughout these major historical moments.
Strolling Alexanderplatz: stopping in at TKMaxx (ahem.. TJMaxx) to buy a warmer under layer and gloves because I did not anticipate how bitter the cold would be
Touring of Reichstag dome (luckily being able to reschedule!): a free tour with beautiful views of Berlin
Strolling the East Side Gallery of the Berlin wall with a coffee in hand: I spotted a Cancer Carl tag, a street artist from Oakland, CA
-Taking a bike ride with Jan to the market to grab groceries for breakfast on my last day, seeing an outdoor petting zoo on the way back in Mauer Park
-Sitting around with Jan and Melli on my last morning with full bellies and sharing stories
-Walking through a memorial to the victims that tried to cross the Berlin Wall with Jan & Melli, talking about the impact of events and war for our families and friends in the history of both Germany and America (then getting hailed on during the walk home)

Language Highlights:
-Tschüss! (pronounced like “OMG choos”)

Food Highlights:
-Currywurst
-Pizza pretzels
-Doner Kebab

Documentaries I need to check out:
-Rabbit a la Berlin
-Swing Kids
-Berlin Kids

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 88
CURRENCIES: 3

(side note: if you ever travel to Berlin – make sure to ‘validate’ your ticket in separate machine, I had a close call because I didn’t realize purchasing a ticket wasn’t the same as having a valid ticket! The train and bus system is generally very easy to get around on but I recommend getting a valid pass for the amount of time you’ll be traveling, it’s just easier!)

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More meat. More beer. Frankfurt. Germany.

It was a brief but beautiful three days in Frankfurt, Germany. A childhood friend now lives there with her husband and I couldn’t come all this way without seeing her!

It’s been twelve years since I last saw Chelsea but it was like no time had passed. We crammed in some sight seeing amongst the catching up. I ate the best food and drank the best cocktails I’ve had on this trip this far.

I can’t help but feel so grateful for the strong, amazing women in my life. And for the friends who orbit around, sometimes gravitating closer and others far out on the rings but always a part of my universe. I am surrounded by incredible, inspiring and bold people.

Highlights from Frankfurt:
-Hours of girl talk on the couch
-The best meal I’ve had: chillischnitzel
-Walking around Frankfurt
-Boat tour of the Mein river and buildings in Frankfurt
-The loves of 90’s music everywhere, I felt right at home
-The most delicious, creative and entertaining cocktails I’ve ever had: it is seriously worth going to Frankfurt just to drink at the Bristol Bar

Language highlights:
-willage (Germans have a hard time with those v’s)
-wodka

Food highlights:
-Chillischnitzel
-Honey waffles with raspberry sauce
-Braised brisket with canoodle (sp?) & red sauerkraut
-Cheesy pretzels
-Whiskey sour with peanut butter, yogurt & topped with apple juice whipped cream
-Burnt scotch with honey & mint: Sebastian went back and forth pouring between beakers with the liquor on fire… I named it the ‘Stop. Drop. And roll.

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 84
CURRENCIES: 3

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Unmentionables mentioned

I just hand-washed my underwear in the sink with shampoo… Am I officially a backpacker now?

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Back on track!

I am very grateful for the kind words and resources that have been sent my way since my little meltdown. I am feeling rejuvenated and refocused. I have been a busy little bee the past two days and booked all my travel and accommodations through March 22nd. My friend Jon is meeting me in Rome on March 13th, I am so grateful that I will have a piece of home here and to have someone to indulge with! I’m not sure that I would have taken such a vacation without him. It’s given me a little guiding light through the next few weeks. It’ll be a quick but amazing week – Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice!

These are my plans from now until March 22nd, any recommendations on what to see and do in these places would be greatly appreciated!

2/27 train from Augsburg and to Frankfurt – visiting a childhood friend from Connecticut that now lives there
3/1 bus to Berlin
3/5 bus to Warsaw – I will visit a mural that my best friend spent 3 summers working on that now hangs in the new Jewish museum
3/7 bus to Krakow
3/8 day trip to Auschwitz and the salt mines
3/9 train to Prague
3/13 flight to Rome
3/13 – 3/22 vacation in Italy with Jon!

Panic

I’ll be honest, the reality of being alone for 3 months… traveling in foreign speaking countries while still having to work at an intensely stressful, full time job has set in. Part of the reason I choose to embark on this journey was to challenge myself outside of my comfort zone, to live life in the moment instead of according to my plans. But then I got to Europe, with no plans past my arrival in Germany and my departure from London and started to realize how much that actually terrifies me. I am grateful that my first stop in Europe is with someone I know who has been an amazing host and made me feel truly at home. I’ve started to do research on the next stops – how to get there and where to stay. It’s overwhelming to say the least. I also underestimated how expensive travel and hostels would be, especially considering I need to ensure that I will have a WiFi connection for work. I just need to breathe. When I started this journey, I had to tell myself, that whatever I see and experience will be enough. But now that I have arrived, it’s hard to remember that. I don’t know if I’ll ever afford to be back here and I want to make the most of every moment. But doing so while working 8 hours a day is both mentally and physically exhausting.

Would you like a Vegemite sandwich?

Australia was a wonderful transition into international waters. I spent two and a half weeks with a close friend and her family. It was the perfect balance between being somewhere completely new and also having that sense of home. It’s amazing how quickly you can grow a community… Granted, I’ve never been very good at farewells but it seemed especially difficult to leave Sydney. The lifestyle… the people… the weather… everything was beautiful. There was a sense of belonging, of familiarity in Sydney. Perhaps it’s because there were many elements that are so similar to San Francisco.

Nicola and I were able to get ourselves into many shenanigans. Sleep was lacking but fun was plentiful. There were many late night chats and early morning coffees. I’d say I was able to balance work and play better than expected. I was also able to meet others who have traveled Europe, listen to their experiences and suggestions to help in planning my three month endeavor. I’m still in awe that I am even on this trip… that I am seeing the places I’ve drooled over on travel shows… that I am meeting amazing, inspiring people all over the world… that this is my life. The gratitude I feel is overwhelming.

I’m currently on the plane to Germany. Well, one of the three planes I’ll be on with a stopover in Singapore and a 7 hour layover in London. It’s going to be a long 30+ hours but I’m equipped with an amazing playlist, yummy Aussie snacks, a journal and some good movies. I can’t even imagine what to expect next.

Highlights from down under:
in Sydney…
-Creative fitness: hikes, playground circuits, picnic table sets, beach yoga
-70% of the way there themed tiki bar in Manly with ‘moist’ cocktails
-the ferry ride to the city, watching the sunset over the hillside houses
-wine on the beach in Manly with Nicola’s friends who adopted me for the evening
-‘Under the sea‘ house party
-feeding a giraffe at the zoo
-ladies night in with wine and cheese
-ducking huge spiderwebs and posting them to horrify Katrina
-the sounds of the birds in the trees (insanely loud and sometimes terrifying)
-the laugh of the kookaburra
-skinny dipping in the ocean pool
-kayaking the Narrabean river
-Open Air Cinema at the beach in Bondi
-cliff walk in Bondi
-salsa dancing
-hidden alley way bars with awesome themes
-karaoke until 5a-learning the proper way to order a whiskey and ginger without getting served scotch (a bourbon and dry, please!)
-Maker’s Mark as the well whiskey and $8.50 Pacificos… really??
-a proper send off of beer steins on the ocean in Manly
in Melbourne…
-eating Aussie junk food while watching ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
-the most elaborate tiki bar, minesweeping pina coladas and dancing to 50’s cruising beach music… far out
-dancing to Beyonce on the streets at 3am
Galentine’s day with Nicola: walking around the side streets, eating teeny cupcakes, fireworks over the river
-drinking a VB and watching cricket for the first time
-failing at an attempt to both throw a cricket ball and learn the rules of the game (I call it baseball’s eccentric aunt)
-deliciously intricate milkshakes at a total dive pool hall

Food Highlights:
-vegemite (it’s ‘interesting’)
-banoffie (banana and toffee) pie
-Tim Tams (in every flavor)
-meat from Upper Crust
-chicken burgers
-flat whites
-pizza shapes
-bacon and cheddar cheese balls

-haloumi cheese
-VB
-‘Macca’s’ (McDonald’s)

Language Highlights:
‘maisel: may as well
-‘straya: Australia
-cunt
-I reckon
-coriander (cilantro)
-capsium (bell peppers)
-mate
-g’day

AIRPORTS: 11
FLIGHTS:
11
STATES:
7
COUNTRIES:
2
CONTINENTS:
3
DAYS TRAVELING:
71

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Cold toes, warm heart

Cold toes, warm heart

It has been 3 1/2 of braving frigid temperatures while creating warm memories. This is the third time I’ve visited my home state of Connecticut since I moved to San Francisco over 3 years ago. It is the first time … Continue reading

Confessions of an over packer

I tend to be an over packer. I like to bring every amenity I might like to use while traveling and an outfit for every occasion. I left San Francisco with a giant red suitcase almost at weight capacity, a stuffed 45 liter pack and a backpack. Determined to be able to truthfully state that I ‘backpacked through Europe’ I had to figure out a way to downsize my life and my work (mobile office) into 2 carry-ons. Oy! I began by placing everything I wanted to take on the bed and what I knew could be left behind in the red suitcase at my mom’s house. I painstakingly mulled over the pile a few times… making several passes at what was strewn before me… hmming and hawing then bringing in a good friend for a second opinion to really draw the line between was wanted and what was neededThe main criteria was for each item to have a multipurpose or be super necessary. I packed my life into my 45 liter pack from Costco and my work into a school size back pack. Surprisingly, only each pack is 1/2 full which leaves plenty of room for the trinkets and presents I’ll pick up along the way. Not bad at all for an over-packer (and over-thinker!)!

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots (for daily wear)
-1 pair of sneakers (for exercise & walking around)
-1 pair of black flip flops (for dresses, warmer weather & showers)
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy)
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans
-1 pair of jeggings (for traveling + sleeping)
-1 pair of shorts (for hot weather or running)
-1 pair of capri pants (for running or sleeping)
-1 fancy tank top
-2 tanks tops / under shirts
-1 long sleeve shirt
-2 blouses (for evening)
-3 cotton blouses (for day)
-2 cotton t-shirts (for relaxing, sleeping or exercising)
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel (for the beach and showering)
-21 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headbands, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry

in backpack (also to use in smaller day trips while traveling):
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet)
-computer + charger
-iPad
-phone + charger
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack (to make touring easier)
-leather journal
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard
-watercolor travel kit
-1 reusable plastic water bottle

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Working in the future

Many people are curious as to how I can afford 6 months of traveling. The truth is… I can’t. BUT I am fortunate to work for a company that is ‘cloud based’, meaning I can technically work from anywhere so long as I have internet access. We have no central office, but the majority of my co-workers are based in the Bay Area. So, I will be working while I am traveling. Luckily, I am a bit of a work-a-holic and haven’t taken a full vacation in almost two years so I have about a month of time saved up. I will only be staying in hostels or places that have WiFi and will be taking long weekends or early days here and there (definitely planning to take a week off in Italy!). I had to create a REALLY thorough travel plan (a google doc actually, being the OCD Virgo that I am) detailing timezones and schedules to ensure I am as available as possible to my co-workers and clients in Pacific time. Even though Australia is almost a full day ahead, I’ll actually be able to work a somewhat normal schedule there (8am – 5pm). I had to take a vacation day on every Friday that I am ‘down under’ since Friday in California would actually be Saturday in Australia (and “I don’t roll on Shabbos!”). Europe will prove to be a bit more difficult as it’s 8-9 hours ahead depending on the country. This means I’ll need to work from 1pm to 10pm. On the bright side, I will have the morning free and I know most of the nightlife doesn’t begin until late anyway.

I’ll be honest, it’s a difficult mindset to be working in a separate timezone. Since December 7th, I’ve been working in the Eastern time and just the three hour difference has proven interesting! I’ve worked late nights before, but doing so on a consistent basis so that I am available in the Pacific work day is going to certainly require some shifting in my brain and routine. I’m grateful to have co-workers who have not only been supportive and encouraging but are also being flexible in their schedules so that I won’t have to attend any 4am conference calls!  It will probably be the craziest four months of my life (and most of the time I will probably forget where I am in time and space), but I already know it will be worth the hectic and sometimes maddening moments or exhausting days!

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I am leaving my heart in San Francisco

Being the over-achieving OCD Virgo that I am, I naturally crossed off about 70% of my moving and traveling to do list within one week of being back from my SoCal trip. I have packed as much as I can possibly pack that’s not in use (mind you, we don’t move until the end of the month). I sat in my living room on Thursday night, surrounded by boxes and totes, and thought… a lot. I’ve been so excited about going traveling that I hadn’t realized that it meant leaving my life as it is now – a life that is full of love, fun and amazing people. I have been so wrapped up in the romance of my travels that I failed to realize that I was giving up the first apartment I have felt at home in, missing out on a life in San Francisco that I cherish each day and risking change (for better or worse) in my relationships as they are now. People have been saying how ‘brave’ I am for making this decision, but I have realized – it is not the going that is courageous, it is the leaving. It’s easier to make bold decisions when you are unhappy, like I did when I decided to leave Providence for San Francisco… but when you are happy with your life? Oh man… to leave it behind, even if it is to chase my dreams of traveling… Well, I am just beginning to realize how hard that really is. I suppose I should consider how blessed I am to have people who make saying ‘goodbye’ (or even ‘see you later’) so difficult. And while intellectually I know that if it is meant to be, I will find a way to reclaim my life in San Francisco, my heart can’t help but feel a bit torn (cue Tony Bennett’s I left my Heart in San Francisco). San Francisco, I leave you my heart… but I’m taking my curious nature, thirst for adventure and generous spirit with me.

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Preparing for 6 months of travel: the ever-growing to do list

I’m freakishly organized. As in, I actually enjoy making lists and creating organizational systems. Since the day I bought my tickets, I have been updating a list of all the things I need to do in temporarily wrapping up my life in San Francisco before embarking on this crazy journey. The list just keeps on growing… any volunteers to be my personal assistant for the next month?

-cancel gym membership
-email landlord with 30 days notice
-figure out what to do with my car
-have oil changed and scheduled maintenance done on car
-figure out where to forward my mail
-change mailing address in all accounts and make request to forward with USPS
-check up with doctor
-teeth cleaning
-see if health insurance covers my internationally
-cancel cell phone
-cancel Comcast & utilities
-purchase travel case for computer
-contact credit cards to alert them of travel
-purchase wall adapter for chargers
-find storage unit
-change renter’s insurance to cover storage unit instead of apartment
-schedule movers
-sell furniture and items I will not be packing
-research international calling plans
-review time zones and figure out work schedule
-plan awesomest going away party ever

Sometimes, you just have to say “fuck it”

When you’ve dreamt of something for as long as you can remember and you’re teetering on the edge of big life decisions… sometimes the best solution is to slug back a few glasses of wine and say “fuck it”. That’s what I did last Tuesday evening when I charged airplane tickets to my credit card for 2 months of visiting family and friends along the east coast, 3 weeks in Australia and 3 months in Europe!

As said best in Billy Joel’s ‘Vienna’ (a longtime inspiration of mine) – “You can get what you want, or you can just get old.”  I’ve learned that time is the most precious resource I haveboth abundant and limited in the same regard – I’m thrilled to be taking full advantage of mine. And while it’s one of the crazier moves I’ve ever made, it feels right like the right time to take the right risk.

And hey – some of the best decisions I’ve made have been while intoxicated, so let’s hope this one follows suits (I mean, that one way ticket to San Francisco turned out to be the greatest choice ever, right??). Drunken courage surely takes action for the sober heart! 

I’ll spend the next two months packing up a storage unit (sadly giving up a great apartment), figuring out what to do with my car and sorting out the hundreds of little details to leave my life in San Francisco not knowing where I’ll be when I return in June. I’m lucky and grateful to have a remote job so I will be able to continue working during this time and will also be tapping into my abundant bank of vacation hours (cheers to being a workaholic and having that shit saved up).

I’m also beyond grateful that I will be spending long overdue time with family and friends all over the world and very excited for the new connections I will make! I’m already overwhelmed with the love, support and offers that have come in within a week of making this decision – I’ll keep everyone posted throughout this process and of course when the traveling starts. Cheers to adventure and bold decisions!

Flight itinerary:

12/7 San Francisco –> Maryland to visit Kaley and my nieces
12/14 Maryland –> Florida to visit my grandparents and Ashley for Christmas
12/28 Florida –> Detroit to get a New Years kiss from Jon
1/4 Detroit –> Connecticut to visit friend and family for 3 weeks (hoping to make it up to Rhode Island to visit Josh’s restaurant in Newport and reunite with friends in Providence after 4 years of being gone)
1/27 Connecticut –> Australia for 3 weeks of adventure with Nicola!
2/16 Australia –> Germany to begin 3 months of European travels!
5/9 London –> Connecticut for a few weeks before returning to California

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