The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

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A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

We had one afternoon, one full day and two nights to explore Cinque Terre, a coast on the Italian Riviera consisting of five villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).

We stayed in Corniglia, climbing 365 steps to reach the town’s center as it sits the highest above the water. We were greeted by our AirBnBer’s father, Beppe. He spoke very little English but that didn’t stop him from giving us a full tour of the apartment and how to use everything in it – using hand gestures and facial expressions until we completely understood every point. He left us with coffee, tea, his homemade jam and crackers. The apartment was adorable but really not meant for anyone over 5’6″. At 6’5″, Jon spent most of his time sitting or hunched over (even in the shower).

The area really seems to take advantage of the off-season, as many shops and restaurants were closed. Unfortunately this meant that most of the hiking trails were closed as well which is what you come to Cinque Terre to do! We made the most of it. We explored our village on our first night then dined while overlooking the ridge and water. As this is a quieter area with zero nightlife, we took advantage of the evenings to relax… to cuddle up with a movie and get some very needed sleep after the hustle of Rome.

On our full day, we used the local train to visit each village since most trails were closed. We saw churches, ruins of castles, beaches and more… We ate gelato and soaked our feet in the Caspian Sea… We peeked our heads into shops, loving the handmade items and the boutiques… We got more gelato and started our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It was so warm, I couldn’t imagine how hot would be in summer. We came across small ledges and adorable bridges. We saw stunning views of the villages. We watched the sun begin to set as we arrived in Monterosso and drank wine by the water in the final moments of it’s descent.

It was perfect. It was romantic. I got lost in each moment then the reality of sharing in it with my ex-ish boyfriend began to set in. It was easy to sink back into ‘us’, but what divided us originally came to the surface again. We had a few long talks about everything there could possibly be to talk about. My heart was beginning to tear again but I wanted to enjoy my last few days with the man that I love so dearly, even if it meant there was no future. I had to reset my brain to focus on enjoying this time together.

Moments in Cinque Terre:
Using a bidet for the first time… I’m not sure if I did it right but it sure did feel wrong.
-Taking the train to each village and walking around… though they are close, they are all unique and have distinct vibes and sights.
-Eating gelato and hiking. Does it get any better?
-The views from on the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.
-Finding another random cat sanctuary on our hike… Why are there so many strays in Italy?

Food and drink highlights:
-We had the tastiest gelato at the beginning of our hike in Vernazza… we ate gelato every day but this was our favorite.
-The food was not worth mentioning except for one dish… this region is known for their pesto and we certainly discovered why (I wish I knew their secret)!
-We had wine made from the grapes in the region, that was a treat!

Language highlights:
hand gestures: they can communicate more than you’d think (especially if you are Italian!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 4
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 103
CURRENCIES: 5

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When In Rome

I have been taking random full or half days here and there along my trip but fair consistently working 40 – 50 hours a week while traveling. I’ve been touring all day, working all afternoon and evening then partying all night while also planning for the next parts of the trip (transport to the next place, accommodations when I get there, bus and train research for while I’m there and creating a list of the ‘absolutely have’ to see and do’s)… all by myself. It’s exhausting to say the least… trying to exist and be present in one moment while planning the next. So I was grateful to not only have a travel companion for a bit but also to take a real vacation away from the computer and to have full days to do with as I please.

For Christmas, I gifted my boyfriend of a year money for a passport and the offer of a ticket to meet me in Europe… anywhere and anytime he’d like. I realized that we might not stay together as the different stages of life we were in were dragging us further and further apart, but I wanted him to have the experience of traveling abroad. I have wanted to see the world my whole life, but up until two years ago, I never thought I would have the opportunity. Jon works so hard and does his best to be a good man in a world where that may not always get you very far… I wanted him to know that it is possible and real, that hopefully life won’t always be so difficult. We did end up breaking up right before I left for the international part of my trip, the unknown of what would happen when I came back was too much to bear and worry about while I was traveling. But we kept in touch – I thought it would be troublesome to have to keep in contact while traveling before I left, but when I got to my first foreign speaking country and had that mini-meltdown, I was so grateful to have the support and encouragement throughout the day (I’m able to text internationally). It’s like I had home with me, even 5,800 miles away. He decided to take me up on the offer and we began planning a week in Italy.

I arrived a few hours before he did, seeing the beauty of a sunset in Rome on the hour long bus ride from the airport. I walked through cobbled alleys to meet Pietro, our AirBnB host, and had a brief but lovely conversation. He thankfully pointed me in the direction of his favorite pizza place as I was starving and knew Jon would be too when he arrived at 11pm. When I got home with the food after an exhausting day of traveling (including the sketchy cab experience and frustrating airport situations), I saw that a smiley face had been drawn on the box from the older waiter who told me I had a beautiful smile… it made my day and was a great start to the trip.

They say ‘Rome wasn’t built in a day’ but it is very possible to walk it in such! We walked over 25,000 steps every day we were in Rome (according to Jon’s FitBit). We spent 3 1/2 days strolling and stuffing our faces. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to enjoy Italian food in the states again.

Moments in Rome:
Strolling along the streets of Rome… seeing so many beautiful sights, archways and statues (more than would be worth noting and boring you)
Fontana di Trevi: though under construction, I was still able to through in a coin and make my wish that I might one day return!
The Pantheon: the columns on the outside, the art on the inside
The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument: the building itself was stunning and we took the elevator to the top floor to get a great panoramic view of Rome
Circus Maximus: at first we couldn’t understand why people were taking pictures of a dirty, random field, but then we figured it out… it’s pretty cool to know that it’s where the chariot races were held!
Largo di Torre Argentina: remains of the old theater where Caesar was killed, now a ‘no-kill’ shelter for homeless cats… ironic?
The Colosseum: architecturally stunning and incredible to imagine what it was centuries ago (minus all the awful death, ya know)
-walking down Tevere River at night (which is probably everything every tour book warns you against) and coming across a group of sketchy people… deciding we’d pass normally and (I took out my spoon for defense) then their dogs started barking and we hightailed it in the opposite direction
-we had terrible, rude service but a delicious cocktail at Barnum Cafe, danced to decade old music at Sloppy Sam’s (motto: classy in the front, sloppy in the back) after jager bombs and gross fruity shots (as it were college all over again) then fancy cocktails (including a proper Sazerac) at The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy (it’s hard to find and the bouncer peeks through a slider when you ring… we are official card-carrying members now)
Terme di Caracalla and the baths: ruins of roman baths… the area is huge and even what remains is beautiful, I can only imagine what it would have been like
Piramide di caio cestio: an ancient pyramid from 18 B.C. built as a tomb for a religious leader, it felt pretty random but it was cool to see A pyramid even if it’s not THE pyramids
Campo di Fiori: we were staying just a few minutes away from this square which is lively during the day with vendors and again at night with restaurants and bars
Vatican Museum: the Egyptian exhibition, seeing a Van Gogh painting, the paintings and statues from several hundred or even thousand years B.C. and obviously… the Sistine Chapel
-after hours of walking around in the rain, the jacket my mom lent me was not holding up and the two layers under it were also soaked… luckily a North Face store was nearby and had a 50% off salesorry mom, but maybe your jacket is keeping a homeless woman in Rome warm now?
-on our last day, with full bellies from Dino e Toni’s, we trekked over an hour and up many hills in the rain to find ‘the keyhole‘ (a recommendation from Arnee)… this inconspicuous door gave us a beautiful cylindrical view of green shrubs and the Vatican (which is on the other side of the city)… even in the cloudy weather, the view was worth the hassle

Recommendation:
Buy your tickets in advance for the Vatican museum and book the earliest tour… even with our tickets early in the morning, we dealt with an insane crowd. We ended up not going into to Saint Peter’s Basilica after the museum because the line was so long (and this is the off season) and we kept being harassed by men selling umbrellas and selfie sticks and ‘tour guides’ trying to sell you a ’tour’ for 20 euro when the entrance is free (the last guy was such a dick, we actually just had to walk away).
Beware of the scooters. They will mow your ass down without hesitation.

Food highlights:
Sette Oche: baked potatoes with different types of cheese, pork covered with pancetta, spaghetti alla gricio, salami pizza, wine, espresso and limoncello (the best aperitif there is!)
Gelato every day… it’s so different than what I expected (I thought it was fruity and more like sorbet, instead it is creamy and comes in all sorts of amazing flavors… it’s better than ice cream!)
Luzzi’s for Lunch: thanks to Mel for the suggestion… we had melon & prosciutto, phenomenal pizza and the tastiest lasagna I’ve ever had
Pompeii: a taster selection of 4 tiny tiramisu 4 taster and canolis that we ate on the Spanish Steps… does it get any more Roman than that?!
-Babington’s Tea Room: I was so exhausted, I fell asleep mid-pour and spilt hot water into my lapclassy
The night we had two dinners: at the first place we had minestrone, zucchini blossoms (with anchovies… yuck), fried artichoke, spaghetti carbonara (my favorite dish) and a bottle of wine… at the second restaurant we had rolled pasta stuffed with spinach & ricotta, meatballs, another bottle of wine, prosecco (my favorite drink) and grappa
-lunch at Dino e Tony… this was so amazing that it’s going to get it’s own postseriously

Language highlights:
-Hearing my last name pronounced by the airport limo driver… as it should be!
-Hello and goodbye: ciao!
-Thank you: grazie!
-Fuck you: vaffanculo (I knew this one already from being babysat by my great great great aunt and namesake, but it was funny to hear and recognize everywhere!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 101
CURRENCIES: 5

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