Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

IMG_1606 IMG_1616 IMG_1617 IMG_1622 IMG_1627 IMG_1615 IMG_1619 IMG_1621 IMG_1629 2015-03-20 12.05.59 IMG_1644 IMG_1586 IMG_1587 IMG_1584 IMG_16772015-03-21 17.38.50  IMG_1659 IMG_1652 IMG_1654 IMG_1662 IMG_1668IMG_1665  IMG_1671 IMG_1683  IMG_1700 IMG_1696IMG_1704 IMG_1737 IMG_1730 IMG_1732 IMG_1656 IMG_1736 IMG_1712 IMG_1718 IMG_1721 IMG_1701 IMG_1739

A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

We had one afternoon, one full day and two nights to explore Cinque Terre, a coast on the Italian Riviera consisting of five villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).

We stayed in Corniglia, climbing 365 steps to reach the town’s center as it sits the highest above the water. We were greeted by our AirBnBer’s father, Beppe. He spoke very little English but that didn’t stop him from giving us a full tour of the apartment and how to use everything in it – using hand gestures and facial expressions until we completely understood every point. He left us with coffee, tea, his homemade jam and crackers. The apartment was adorable but really not meant for anyone over 5’6″. At 6’5″, Jon spent most of his time sitting or hunched over (even in the shower).

The area really seems to take advantage of the off-season, as many shops and restaurants were closed. Unfortunately this meant that most of the hiking trails were closed as well which is what you come to Cinque Terre to do! We made the most of it. We explored our village on our first night then dined while overlooking the ridge and water. As this is a quieter area with zero nightlife, we took advantage of the evenings to relax… to cuddle up with a movie and get some very needed sleep after the hustle of Rome.

On our full day, we used the local train to visit each village since most trails were closed. We saw churches, ruins of castles, beaches and more… We ate gelato and soaked our feet in the Caspian Sea… We peeked our heads into shops, loving the handmade items and the boutiques… We got more gelato and started our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It was so warm, I couldn’t imagine how hot would be in summer. We came across small ledges and adorable bridges. We saw stunning views of the villages. We watched the sun begin to set as we arrived in Monterosso and drank wine by the water in the final moments of it’s descent.

It was perfect. It was romantic. I got lost in each moment then the reality of sharing in it with my ex-ish boyfriend began to set in. It was easy to sink back into ‘us’, but what divided us originally came to the surface again. We had a few long talks about everything there could possibly be to talk about. My heart was beginning to tear again but I wanted to enjoy my last few days with the man that I love so dearly, even if it meant there was no future. I had to reset my brain to focus on enjoying this time together.

Moments in Cinque Terre:
Using a bidet for the first time… I’m not sure if I did it right but it sure did feel wrong.
-Taking the train to each village and walking around… though they are close, they are all unique and have distinct vibes and sights.
-Eating gelato and hiking. Does it get any better?
-The views from on the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.
-Finding another random cat sanctuary on our hike… Why are there so many strays in Italy?

Food and drink highlights:
-We had the tastiest gelato at the beginning of our hike in Vernazza… we ate gelato every day but this was our favorite.
-The food was not worth mentioning except for one dish… this region is known for their pesto and we certainly discovered why (I wish I knew their secret)!
-We had wine made from the grapes in the region, that was a treat!

Language highlights:
hand gestures: they can communicate more than you’d think (especially if you are Italian!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 4
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 103
CURRENCIES: 5

IMG_1441 IMG_1410 IMG_1439 IMG_1438 IMG_1422 IMG_1443 IMG_1452 IMG_1462 IMG_1464 IMG_1472 IMG_1481 IMG_1482 IMG_1484 IMG_1488 IMG_1494 IMG_1495 IMG_1504 IMG_1517 IMG_1523 IMG_1524 IMG_1528 IMG_1541 IMG_1545 10891465_10154230330417925_8249486313489956790_n IMG_1540 IMG_1414 IMG_1530 IMG_1556 IMG_1568

A lunch worth a post of its own

Have you ever had a meal so good that it deserved it’s own blog post? I have. Jon’s friend recommended Dino e Toni’s in Vatican City… he did not, however, give us any clue about what to expect. After a beautiful morning in the Vatican Museum and a stressful afternoon trying to get into Saint Peter’s Basillica, we made our way to this restaurant. From the outside, it seemed like nothing special (if it wasn’t a recommendation, I probably wouldn’t have given it a second glance). Upon walking in, we noticed there was flour on the floor to prevent us from slipping after coming in from the pouring rain (Italians really like to use their resources). The decor was minimal but charming. It was a small restaurant with long tables and chairs, cafeteria style.
HOSTARIA-DINO-E-TONI-FACHADA-434x580

We were greeted by an older man who spoke no English. He began rambling to us and we nodded our heads and smiled, agreeing to the ‘alla casa’ special as the others around us had. We had NO idea what was about to take place.

They brought wine.
IMG_1340

Then they brought out ‘appetizers’ to share…
-potato croquets
-fried nugget shaped foods (one was sweet and one was mushroom maybe… truthfully, we have no idea but they were delicious)
-slices of salami & prosciutto
-a spinach and cheese bread
-and pizza with four different kinds of toppings (a pizza… as an appetizer… this should have tipped us off…)
IMG_1343IMG_1341 IMG_1342

We were getting pretty full. Then they served us each a bowl of rigatoni alla gricia (pasta with pepper, parmesan & bacon).
IMG_1344

Followed by another bowl each of rigatoni covered in the best tomato sauce I’ve ever had and thick cut bits of bacon.
IMG_1345

They brought us meatballs and a deep fried eggplant to share. The servers (all older Italian men) were constantly bustling and belting out serenades whenever the mood struck.
IMG_1347 IMG_1348

The Brits next to us were already struggling at this point. One of the waiters came and yelled ‘Mangia! Mangia!’ (Eat! Eat!) as they were caught trying to hide some food under other plates (I don’t even think they stock to go containers). We were forced to finish even the tail of the artichoke. The struggle became real as I could literally feel my stomach expanding. We joked about being nervous every time they rounded the corner, terrified and excited that there would be more food for us.

They came and asked ‘carne or pesce?’ (meat or fish?). We chose carne and received pork with golden, roasted potatoes. Jon was a champ and finished most of this one by himself, I had to tap out.
IMG_1349 IMG_1352 IMG_1388

We sat for awhile until two shots glasses and a bottle of Alagna Zibibbo were placed in front of us. I assumed it was an aperitif, so we each had a shot and sat for awhile longer. We chatted with the ladies to our left, Agathe and Cami. They had just begun their meal and we had to give them a warning. They were kind and offered for me to visit them in the South of France (which I just may do!).
IMG_1354

Then came the pastries for Jon and I…
-fruit tarts
-cookies
-flan
-bread pudding
-a shot of espresso with ice cream
IMG_1353 IMG_1355 IMG_1356 IMG_1357

I had to start wrapping food in napkins and stuffing it my purse because we were close to vomiting from being so full. We sat for awhile, digesting and chatting over espresso. As we were leaving I hugged my new friends and the waiter ran up for a big hug and a kiss goodbye (both cheeks as they do in Italy). I felt like I was a niece among this Italian family, headed home after Sunday dinner.
IMG_1358

The meal was an absurdly good value… about $80 USD for the two of us (as noted on the calculator that was handed to us when it was time for the ‘check’)… it took hours to walk off the grotesque fullness. But the food was the best I’ve had in Italy and the experience even better.
IMG_1360

If you find yourself in Rome (or maybe plan a trip just for this meal – it’s worth it!)… visit our friends, Dino e Toni (Via Leone IV, 60, 00192 Roma). Note: I’m not actually sure if we met Dino or Toni, but there was something that gave me the sense that we had… or perhaps all the servers there just embodied their spirit!

IMG_1346

Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

IMG_0734 IMG_0756 IMG_0766 IMG_0775 IMG_0778 1656195_10153338605358243_6425133787668149449_n 11071030_10153338586883243_8629367333893254346_n IMG_0781 IMG_0820 IMG_0798 IMG_0800 IMG_0801 IMG_0802 IMG_0810 IMG_0811 IMG_0817 IMG_0826 IMG_0834 IMG_0837 IMG_0861 IMG_0865 IMG_0867 IMG_0868 IMG_0869 IMG_0870 IMG_0872 IMG_0871 IMG_0862 IMG_0961 IMG_0893 IMG_0962 IMG_0968 IMG_0969 IMG_0965 IMG_0966 IMG_0967 IMG_0945 IMG_0947 IMG_0952 IMG_0955 IMG_0971 IMG_0960 IMG_0976 IMG_0986

One Night in Warsaw

I only spent 37 hours in Warsaw, but every moment was filled with such love and delight. There was something about this place that was instantly so familiar to me. I am on the train to Krakow now.. part of me wishing that I’d had more time in Warsaw but the other part of me knowing that it was perfect just as it was. 

I had my second couchsurfing experience with a woman named Gośka, a 23 year old medical student. I cannot explain her energy, her pure love for meeting new people and for existing in the moment. I fell in love with her instantly. She picked me up from the bus station at 6am and after a few hours of napping, we had what I can only describe as a whirlwind of powerful conversation, love and gratitude in its most genuine form
 
I initially decided to come to Poland solely to see a project my best friend, Savana, spent three summers working on – the recreation of a wooden synagogue’s structure and the murals that adorned the inside which was burned down in WWII. What I did not anticipate was that there were bigger plans for me than just a trip to the Museum of the History of Polish Jews to see this project. I was meant to meet Gośka, to have this beautiful soul in my life.
 
Gośka and I walked around for hours, talking and laughing. It felt as if we’d always known each other. That evening, we had a delicious meal and met up with her friends for drinks. The people I meet keeping asking me what I notice is different about their country compared to America. But truthfully, I don’t see many differences. Maybe it’s because I am not looking for them? Or is it because I am instead searching for what makes us similar? For the common threads of humanity that connect us?
 
On the way home, at 4am, I stopped Gośka to take a deep breath and to remember the moment we were in. I asked her if she’d ever had that feeling of ‘I am exactly where I am meant to be’ or ‘I am exactly who I am meant to be’… I said, “these are the moments in life we have to hold on to because they mean that everything up until this point… all the good things, the adventures, the tragedies, the heartbreaks… have led us here”. We stood with our feet on either side of a man hole to commemorate the moment (it seemed appropriate at the time – perhaps due to the 17 shots of vodka we consumed?). I said, “remember this very second and when things are difficult, remember that life is only preparing us for more moments like this… to appreciate how beautiful life really is.
 
The more I am grateful for these moments, the happier I become and the happier I become, the more moments like this I seem to have. It’s a blessed circle. With the strong women I am meeting and the statues on display of these warrior women I see everywhere in Europe, I feel like I am on a tour of female empowerment. I am a woman, traveling ‘alone’ but making communities in each place I visit – embracing the people and the culture in each destination. Choosing to create the life I want to lead – knowing that happiness is a conscious effort and choice
 
As my train was departing, Goska gave me a book entitled ‘Led by Destiny‘ which is the story of two American backpackers. I cannot wait to read it and to see when in life I will see my Polish sister again. The title of the book could not be more appropriate as… deep breath… I am right where and who I am meant to be… in this very moment. Without the previous moments in my life that were painful and lonely, I would not appreciate this journey so deeply. Sometimes, the only way to change your life is to change your outlook on it… this will transform everything.
 
Moments in Warsaw:
-Goska made homemade hummus and fresh orange juice for my first lunch.
Royal Lazienki Park: We walked around to see this beautiful park on a crisp day. We saw amazing sculptures and ‘the palace on the water’ but the highlight was certainly the animals. Poland has THE CUTEST squirrels I have seen. They are smaller than American squirrels and red with tufted hair on their ears. They are so friendly and adorable, I wish I could have one as a pet. Also in this park, it is common for peacocks to wander freely. We came across one who was proudly strutting his feathers, turning almost as if he were showing how handsome he was. It was one of the most majestic and wonderful moments in my life.
-Walking through Old Town with a coffee in hand, discussing life and love with Goska.
-Going from one small, cramped bar to another to take shots of flavored vodka in each. I am impressed I was alive this morning. Two of Goska’s friends joined us and we talked so freely about many topics. I’ve learned that people do not hate Americans the way we think they do but that actually it’s very common to feel like other places have bad ideas of your country. 
-Goska and I making a toast to our mothers: “to the women we swore we’d be nothing like as girls but are now proud to be like as women.”
Museum of the History of Polish Jews: I met Savana’s friend, Olga, who worked on the mural with her and two Americans visting from Paris where they study law (and I hope to see them again!). The museum just opened last year and everything about it was awe-inspringthe architecture, the exhibits, the history. There was a Purim celebration and I got prune hamentashen to celebrate. It made me happy because I love them so much as they remind me of my close friend and second mother (she makes large batches every year).
Wilanow Royal Palace: We went to see the gardens and the palace but with luck on our side, there was an amazing light display! They used 3D projectors on the building itself, using the building’s features as a guide to tell a moving story – there is just no way to describe what we saw! It was by far one of the coolest installations I’ve ever seen. We danced and giggled through the gardens. There was an Alice in Wonderland maze and a Cinderella horse and carriage – all made of lights. It had that special feeling that happens around Christmas. Goska and Paulina had no idea there was such an event when we planned to go – it was just one of those amazing ‘you couldn’t plan this if you tried‘ moments to happen upon.
 

Language highlights:
smacznego: said at the beginning of a meal
nostrovia: cheers!
curva: bitch
dziekuje: thank you (pronounced jen-koo-ya)

Food highlights:
zurek: polish sour cream soup with white sausage and boiled egg
-spinach pierogis in a blue cheese sauce
-beetroot soup
-strudel crepe baked with cheese
 
AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 91
CURRENCIES: 4 – I feel VERY rich in Zloty 😉

IMG_0476 IMG_0482 IMG_0485 IMG_0492 IMG_0426 IMG_0434 IMG_0498 IMG_0499 IMG_0500 IMG_0501 IMG_0506 IMG_0510 IMG_0512 IMG_0516 IMG_0518 IMG_0524 IMG_0534 IMG_0555 IMG_0558 IMG_0557 IMG_0559 IMG_0571 IMG_0575 IMG_0581 IMG_0584 IMG_0588 IMG_0589

Unmentionables mentioned

I just hand-washed my underwear in the sink with shampoo… Am I officially a backpacker now?

IMG_0151_2

Morning Inspiration

I had some time to catch up on Facebook this morning and I just had to take a moment to let you know how much in awe I am of all of you.

I know some of the hardships each of you have faced… I have seen some of you completely broken… Suffering from a great loss or disappointment… At your worstAt the depths of depression or addiction… Beaten down by life… At your wits end… I have witnessed what you’ve endured and see what some are still facing… But in scrolling, I see all these beautiful posts sharing your stories and pictures of you smiling or adventuring. That is true courage, true bravery.

Keep on with the good fight (it’s worth it!) and know that I support you every step of the way. I have so much respect and admiration for all of you. I am constantly inspired by your posts, thoughts and triumphs so please keep sharing. We need to share all the positivity and love we can in this world. I love you all!

Back on track!

I am very grateful for the kind words and resources that have been sent my way since my little meltdown. I am feeling rejuvenated and refocused. I have been a busy little bee the past two days and booked all my travel and accommodations through March 22nd. My friend Jon is meeting me in Rome on March 13th, I am so grateful that I will have a piece of home here and to have someone to indulge with! I’m not sure that I would have taken such a vacation without him. It’s given me a little guiding light through the next few weeks. It’ll be a quick but amazing week – Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice!

These are my plans from now until March 22nd, any recommendations on what to see and do in these places would be greatly appreciated!

2/27 train from Augsburg and to Frankfurt – visiting a childhood friend from Connecticut that now lives there
3/1 bus to Berlin
3/5 bus to Warsaw – I will visit a mural that my best friend spent 3 summers working on that now hangs in the new Jewish museum
3/7 bus to Krakow
3/8 day trip to Auschwitz and the salt mines
3/9 train to Prague
3/13 flight to Rome
3/13 – 3/22 vacation in Italy with Jon!

Panic

I’ll be honest, the reality of being alone for 3 months… traveling in foreign speaking countries while still having to work at an intensely stressful, full time job has set in. Part of the reason I choose to embark on this journey was to challenge myself outside of my comfort zone, to live life in the moment instead of according to my plans. But then I got to Europe, with no plans past my arrival in Germany and my departure from London and started to realize how much that actually terrifies me. I am grateful that my first stop in Europe is with someone I know who has been an amazing host and made me feel truly at home. I’ve started to do research on the next stops – how to get there and where to stay. It’s overwhelming to say the least. I also underestimated how expensive travel and hostels would be, especially considering I need to ensure that I will have a WiFi connection for work. I just need to breathe. When I started this journey, I had to tell myself, that whatever I see and experience will be enough. But now that I have arrived, it’s hard to remember that. I don’t know if I’ll ever afford to be back here and I want to make the most of every moment. But doing so while working 8 hours a day is both mentally and physically exhausting.

Would you like a Vegemite sandwich?

Australia was a wonderful transition into international waters. I spent two and a half weeks with a close friend and her family. It was the perfect balance between being somewhere completely new and also having that sense of home. It’s amazing how quickly you can grow a community… Granted, I’ve never been very good at farewells but it seemed especially difficult to leave Sydney. The lifestyle… the people… the weather… everything was beautiful. There was a sense of belonging, of familiarity in Sydney. Perhaps it’s because there were many elements that are so similar to San Francisco.

Nicola and I were able to get ourselves into many shenanigans. Sleep was lacking but fun was plentiful. There were many late night chats and early morning coffees. I’d say I was able to balance work and play better than expected. I was also able to meet others who have traveled Europe, listen to their experiences and suggestions to help in planning my three month endeavor. I’m still in awe that I am even on this trip… that I am seeing the places I’ve drooled over on travel shows… that I am meeting amazing, inspiring people all over the world… that this is my life. The gratitude I feel is overwhelming.

I’m currently on the plane to Germany. Well, one of the three planes I’ll be on with a stopover in Singapore and a 7 hour layover in London. It’s going to be a long 30+ hours but I’m equipped with an amazing playlist, yummy Aussie snacks, a journal and some good movies. I can’t even imagine what to expect next.

Highlights from down under:
in Sydney…
-Creative fitness: hikes, playground circuits, picnic table sets, beach yoga
-70% of the way there themed tiki bar in Manly with ‘moist’ cocktails
-the ferry ride to the city, watching the sunset over the hillside houses
-wine on the beach in Manly with Nicola’s friends who adopted me for the evening
-‘Under the sea‘ house party
-feeding a giraffe at the zoo
-ladies night in with wine and cheese
-ducking huge spiderwebs and posting them to horrify Katrina
-the sounds of the birds in the trees (insanely loud and sometimes terrifying)
-the laugh of the kookaburra
-skinny dipping in the ocean pool
-kayaking the Narrabean river
-Open Air Cinema at the beach in Bondi
-cliff walk in Bondi
-salsa dancing
-hidden alley way bars with awesome themes
-karaoke until 5a-learning the proper way to order a whiskey and ginger without getting served scotch (a bourbon and dry, please!)
-Maker’s Mark as the well whiskey and $8.50 Pacificos… really??
-a proper send off of beer steins on the ocean in Manly
in Melbourne…
-eating Aussie junk food while watching ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
-the most elaborate tiki bar, minesweeping pina coladas and dancing to 50’s cruising beach music… far out
-dancing to Beyonce on the streets at 3am
Galentine’s day with Nicola: walking around the side streets, eating teeny cupcakes, fireworks over the river
-drinking a VB and watching cricket for the first time
-failing at an attempt to both throw a cricket ball and learn the rules of the game (I call it baseball’s eccentric aunt)
-deliciously intricate milkshakes at a total dive pool hall

Food Highlights:
-vegemite (it’s ‘interesting’)
-banoffie (banana and toffee) pie
-Tim Tams (in every flavor)
-meat from Upper Crust
-chicken burgers
-flat whites
-pizza shapes
-bacon and cheddar cheese balls

-haloumi cheese
-VB
-‘Macca’s’ (McDonald’s)

Language Highlights:
‘maisel: may as well
-‘straya: Australia
-cunt
-I reckon
-coriander (cilantro)
-capsium (bell peppers)
-mate
-g’day

AIRPORTS: 11
FLIGHTS:
11
STATES:
7
COUNTRIES:
2
CONTINENTS:
3
DAYS TRAVELING:
71

IMG_9175 IMG_9185 IMG_9187IMG_9211 IMG_9177 IMG_9245 IMG_9364 IMG_9368 IMG_9595 IMG_9553 IMG_9416 IMG_9651 IMG_9682 IMG_9281 IMG_9282 IMG_9286 IMG_9665 IMG_9264  IMG_9820IMG_9877_2 IMG_9315 IMG_9711 IMG_9772 IMG_9773 IMG_9775 IMG_9737   IMG_9795 IMG_9790IMG_9799  IMG_9747IMG_9742IMG_9883_2 IMG_9782

Cold toes, warm heart

Cold toes, warm heart

It has been 3 1/2 of braving frigid temperatures while creating warm memories. This is the third time I’ve visited my home state of Connecticut since I moved to San Francisco over 3 years ago. It is the first time … Continue reading

Confessions of an over packer

I tend to be an over packer. I like to bring every amenity I might like to use while traveling and an outfit for every occasion. I left San Francisco with a giant red suitcase almost at weight capacity, a stuffed 45 liter pack and a backpack. Determined to be able to truthfully state that I ‘backpacked through Europe’ I had to figure out a way to downsize my life and my work (mobile office) into 2 carry-ons. Oy! I began by placing everything I wanted to take on the bed and what I knew could be left behind in the red suitcase at my mom’s house. I painstakingly mulled over the pile a few times… making several passes at what was strewn before me… hmming and hawing then bringing in a good friend for a second opinion to really draw the line between was wanted and what was neededThe main criteria was for each item to have a multipurpose or be super necessary. I packed my life into my 45 liter pack from Costco and my work into a school size back pack. Surprisingly, only each pack is 1/2 full which leaves plenty of room for the trinkets and presents I’ll pick up along the way. Not bad at all for an over-packer (and over-thinker!)!

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots (for daily wear)
-1 pair of sneakers (for exercise & walking around)
-1 pair of black flip flops (for dresses, warmer weather & showers)
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy)
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans
-1 pair of jeggings (for traveling + sleeping)
-1 pair of shorts (for hot weather or running)
-1 pair of capri pants (for running or sleeping)
-1 fancy tank top
-2 tanks tops / under shirts
-1 long sleeve shirt
-2 blouses (for evening)
-3 cotton blouses (for day)
-2 cotton t-shirts (for relaxing, sleeping or exercising)
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel (for the beach and showering)
-21 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headbands, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry

in backpack (also to use in smaller day trips while traveling):
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet)
-computer + charger
-iPad
-phone + charger
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack (to make touring easier)
-leather journal
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard
-watercolor travel kit
-1 reusable plastic water bottle

10897123_10152605566823045_4940656262075224389_n10570328_10152605570683045_8046952106497023193_n

Motor City

I’m grateful that time seemed to pass at exactly the right speed this week. I flew into Detroit last Sunday to ring in the New Year with my sweetheart. I had my first ‘meet the family’ experience and spent time with Jon’s friends, all of which are amazing people. It was nice to see where he comes from – what has shaped the man he is. It was a bittersweet week, we made the most of every moment but there was this part of me that couldn’t stop worrying about the inevitable separation. I know that this is the right decision for me and that if it’s it is meant to be (and I hope it is), it will be. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t hurt like hell! Especially for a Type A planner like myself – I don’t fair well when I don’t know all the answers. Regardless of the emotions and thoughts flying through my brain, we really did have a lot of fun this week and as hard as it was to say goodbye, I am hopeful.

Top 5 favorite moments in Detroit:
-The cabin we were in for New Years, getting to know some great people and sharing in so much laughter
-Meeting Jon’s grandmother who radiates love and genuine goodness
-Celebrating our 1 year anniversary at an amazing steakhouse where we became the favorite table of the owner and got the royal treatment
-Getting a driving tour of Detroit and a real feel for the city, the beauty and sadness in it’s vacancy
-The total dive bar that we went to for karaoke and the shenanigans that ensued from there

AIRPORTS: 5
FLIGHTS: 4
STATES: 4
COUNTRIES: 1
DAYS TRAVELING: 28

IMG_8837IMG_8818IMG_8829IMG_8871IMG_8863IMG_8872IMG_8878IMG_8870IMG_8868        IMG_8881

Sunshine State of Mind

A man travels the world over in search of what he needs and returns home to find it.

-George A. Moore

There isn’t anything like being in the presence of my grandparents. I am looking forward to the next few months of adventure, but I already know that nothing will be better than just being with Mama and Pa.

Two weeks has passed too quickly. It’s incredible how quickly you can become accustomed to a person, place or feeling again, as if you’d never left, but how long it takes to recover in the absence that is inevitable. I feel my best with them, as if anything I am and do… is more than enough. I am my best self…. my funniest self, my smartest self, my kindest self… with them. Everything is clearer, the world makes sense. The wisdom, honesty and love that flows in their company… There is a sense of invincibility, as if I can face anything as long as they are with me.

I tried to relish in every moment of it, tried to store up some of that energy to carry with me in my travels. And really, in the rest of my life. I want more than anything to be the person in the world that I am with them.

Top 5 moments in Florida:
-The first Christmas morning with my grandparents in over 15 years.
-Seeing an old friend truly happy and the best version of herself.
-The photos. Of my childhood. Of my mom’s. Of theirs. Of my great grandparents. Of everyone I’ve known and loved… The memories both saved and lost.
-My grandmother’s laugh (if you’ve heard it, you know why).
-My grandfather’s view on the world. I love the way he listens and waits to formulate an opinion, I value it more than anything when he is ready to share it.

AIRPORTS: 4
FLIGHTS: 2
STATES: 3
COUNTRIES: 1
DAYS TRAVELING: 21

IMG_8701IMG_8672 IMG_8726  IMG_8727

Merry in Maryland

The first week of traveling has flown by. I got to spend a week in absolute baby bliss with one of my oldest and dearest high schools friends in the beautiful life she has created. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to start this journey. A large part of the decision to travel was knowing that this would be one of my last opportunities to do it – foreseeing the creation of my own family in the next few years. Being 28, there’s a sense of youth but also of awareness of the speed at which time passes. I want to savor every moment of this time and freedom, taking full advantage of it so that I have no regrets once I am ready to settle down. Spending this time with Kaley was precious in more ways than I can even comprehend at this moment.

Top 5 favorite moments from Maryland:
1. Kaley and I spotting a shooting star on the drive home from the airport when I arrived (a wonderful sign that I was right where I was meant to be!)
2. My two year old niece, Evelyn, hugging me as tight as her little arms could hold me and whispering, “I love you, Auntie Jackie”
3. Running errands with Kaley mid-trip – just us and the random, profound conversation that happens in the most mundane of activities
4. After a stressful work day, going into the bedroom to pick up my six month old niece, Lily, and seeing her beaming a smile up at me from the crib
5. The surprising calm from my nieces in the back seat and the hum of bluegrass from the radio on the super early drive to the airport as we watched the sunrise over Washington DC

AIRPORTS: 3
FLIGHTS: 1
STATES: 2
COUNTRIES: 1
DAYS TRAVELING: 7

IMG_8494IMG_8609IMG_8604IMG_8594IMG_8614

Activating the Law of Attraction

“The law of attraction is simple – whatever you project energetically or put your energy towards whether that be positive or negative you will attract. What you project is what you receive. A vision board is simply to help set our intentions for the way we want to live, and for our brains to pick up on that and make it happen. The vision board therefore, is to help our brains recognize what it is we want to make true in our lives. It helps us unconsciously move towards our dreams in a very real and powerful way.  The purpose of a vision board is to realize your future, and to activate the law of attraction and move from day dreaming to living your dreams.”

-Mary Crimmins, Fellow Blogger

I created my ‘vision board‘ in the same week that I started this blog. Ironically enough, I did not set out to do so. I thought it would be a good idea to print out maps to get a sense of not only where I would like to go but where I thought my social network could come in handy. I highlighted where I had been and outlined where I would like to go. I started creating pinpoints in places where I had people I could stay with or where I knew friends had traveled and could offer advice. A cork board that my roommate had given me seemed the best place to tack these maps on – and voilà – my vision board was created!

I stare at it several times a day with excitement and a tinge of anxiety. I’m setting forth my intentions into the world and here is where you all (all of the extraordinary people I’ve been blessed with in my life) come in. Send me your stories and advice! Where have you traveled? Where would you like to go? What must I absolutely see or do? Do you have advice on hostels or know of a couch I can crash on? Do you know of any good websites or travel options to help with planning? Anything! I’m seeking to pick the brains and generosity of all of my connections and their connections and their connections…. You get the idea. So comment on my blog or page… send an email or a facebook message… text or call me… send a note via carrier pigeon – whatever you prefer!

580497_10151498266503045_1524093049_n