The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

Screen Shot 2015-04-05 at 12.56.35 PM Screen Shot 2015-04-05 at 12.57.19 PM Screen Shot 2015-04-05 at 12.57.55 PM Screen Shot 2015-04-05 at 12.57.43 PMworld here i comeworld traveler wrap photo - last plane home

To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

The best part of traveling alone is that you can decide how “lonely” that can be. I get to choose when I feel like being alone (without hurting anyone’s feelings) and can easily make new friends when I need company.

I had a week in Barcelona to have the space I needed for thinking and the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people when I wanted to be. I enjoyed the ‘tourist’ attractions earlier in the week but by the end, I simply enjoyed ‘living’ in Barcelona. I think that’s the best part of traveling, when you just feel at home wherever you are.

On my last day in Barcelona, I actually had to spend a few hours re-uploading all the pictures in this blog dating back to when it was created two years ago (I made in error in thinking I could delete the archive on WordPress). There was actually something quite beautiful in having to go back to the beginning and reading my thought process before this journey. Nearing the end of this trip, I can’t imagine that it could have been more perfect to be almost forced into reviewing where I started from. I remembered the choice I made to be happy… The choice I made to begin this adventure… I remembered that you do choose in life… even if your only choice is a matter of perception in your reality.

Moments in Barcelona:
-I got very lucky with a beautiful apartment and a kind couchsurfing host… I met my Ray (a 44 year old Frenchman) at the bar he was at with friends to get the keys before heading to the apartment… I did not expect to open the door to a four story house with marble floors, an elevator, a huge patio, a rooftop terrace with beautiful views of the city, a sauna and a maid
-meeting Jan (from Barcelona), Sully (from Boston) and Anny (from Colombia) through couchsurfing… Jan picked us up and took us to Magic, a classic rock bar where we enjoyed tequila sunrises and chatted until very late in the evening… I even ran into another guy that I had chatted with on the site when I was looking for a host (small world as always)
-being a bit sad to be missing Easter traditions with my friends in San Francisco, I had a lovely solo brunch of albondigas con juevos y una cerveza (Spanish meatballs with eggs and a beer)
-after an unsuccessful attempt to meet up with Sully and Anny, I strolled the enormous and beautiful Parc Güell by myself on Easter Sunday… touring Antoni Gaudi’s house and finding Los Sobrino, a string quartet, playing a cover of ‘Firework’ by Katy Perry (I was actually so impressed that I bought their CD)
-catching up with the ladies for tapas and hilarious conversation that I didn’t quite understand but caught the gist of with the waiters
-breathing the fresh Mediterranean Sea air at the beach (even if it was slightly chilly)
Sangria on the beach followed by a dinner of tasty tapas with my new friends
El Bosc de Les Fades: a very well decorated fairy tthemed bar that makes you feel like you are in the forest
-meeting up with Sully at the Plaza Espanya and walking around the National Art Museum of Catalonia, an incredible building with enormous fountains
-having lunch on top of the old bullfighting arena which is now a mall (bullfighting is illegal in Barcelona)
-highlights from Sandemann’s NewEurope walking tour: learning the history of Barcelona and Catalonia and the reason behind their quest for independence from Spain, walking through the beautiful plazas, the structure  dedicated to the Castilleres who climb on each other’s shoulders to reach great heights, Gaudi’s fountain, the Arc del Triomf, a dash of Picasso art and the beautiful mosaics of brightly colored Spanish tiles
-lunch and chit chat with my new friends from the tour: Jess from France, Q from New York and Tim from Australia
-highlights from the Sandemann’s NewEurope Gaudi and Moderisme tour: learning of Gaudi’s life, the tiles lining Passeig de Gràcia from Gaudi’s design, houses from the Modernsime era (and the funny stories behind some of the decor), Gaudi’s Casa Battló (telling the story of Saint Jordi’s battle with the dragon to save the virgin princess), Gaudi’s Casa Milà (the last private house he worked on, a huge inspiration for George Lucas creating Star Wars) and more
-touring the inside of La Sagrada Família… it began construction in 1882 and is still a work in progress, Gaudi began his life’s work when he was 31 years old and worked on it until his tragic death 43 years later… this church is the definition of ‘epic’, every inch of it is grand and has meaning behind it… the way the light floods in is breathtaking, I look forward to visiting in 20 or so years when it’s completed
appreciating the symbolism and beauty in architecture in a way that I honestly never did before
-seeing more 23’s 🙂
-the beautiful view of the city and the construction on La Sagrada Família from the passion facade tower
-hunting for a perfect dress for my Moulin Rouge evening in Paris in a really alternative and funky neighborhood that I couldn’t figure out the name of… there were great vintage stores and awesome record shops
-getting a permanent souvenir from this trip, a beautiful peacock feather from Chiara Pina at LTW Tattoo (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me – I’ll post about this later)
-window shopping along La Rambla and in the windy streets along the edges of this area
-finding the St. Joseph Mercat – La Bouqueria, an amazing farmer’s market
-having a few beers and discussing the key to happiness with Jan at an Irish bar (Michael Collins) that had a great 90’s cover band

Food highlights:
-potato and beef stew at El Pollo Rico, a recommendation from Josh
-so many empanadas, some traditional and some unique
-bread with garlic and smushed tomato (very common in Barcelona, simple but tasty)
murros: fried pig nose (basically like pork grinds)
-deep fried cream cheese balls at Burger King (it was the only place open at 2am and I totally don’t regret it)

Language highlights:
guapo / guapa: this word is thrown around a lot, it basically meaning handsome / pretty and is a term of endearment
-Mexican Spanish: grassy-us … Spain Spanish: grath-ee-uh (I feel like I developed a lisp this past week)
-trying to decipher between Spanish and Catalon (the language spoken here)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 126
CURRENCIES: 5

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Holy Week in Seville

Seville was an unplanned stop in Spain for me but I was told I just had to come down here for the processions during Holy Week (Semana Santa) in the days leading up to Easter Sunday.

So I sandwiched a few days in between Madrid and Barcelona to take the train down to Seville. I had never heard of the processions and had no idea what to expect, or how difficult it would be to find accommodations!

Luckily Rob accepted my couch surfing request for three nights and four days. A 28 year old from Miami based with the Air Force an hour outside of Seville, we hit it off instantly and didn’t shut up the entire time. What is this feeling of such familiarity and comfort with all the people I am meeting on this journey? I cannot tell if it’s due to the overwhelming kindness I’ve experienced from strangers, my own openness or both? He was off of work for the holiday, so we spent the days exploring and the evenings celebrating – a first Semana Santa experience for both of us.

It was hot in Seville, over 100 degrees each day and in the low 70’s at night. I sent all of my summer clothing and sandals from Australia back with Jon after Italy, so I was ill prepared for that kind of heat… to say the least. There was a constant, unquenchable thirst.

I was surprised to see women in high heels and men in suits, dressed in their Easter best (literally) for each day of Semana Santa. Even more surprising, were the traditional robes and pointed hoods worn by the members of the church participating in the processions. No matter how much I saw them and understood that they are in reality not related at all, I never really got over the tinge of fear and unease of seeing these outfits knowing what they represent with the KKK in the United States.

The tradition of the garb represents penitence for their sins, to take the attention away from them and toward God. Each day there are these long processions, thousands of men and women carrying 4 foot long candles or bearing large crosses walking very slowly through the streets of Seville, many are barefoot. There are children dressed as priests and women singing sorrowful tunes accompanied by wind instruments. There are these beautiful and elaborate floats weighing close to two tons, some as old as the 16th century, that are carried by 40-50 men. Each church has their own brotherhood that marches along the small, winding streets up to the main cathedral. Over a million locals and tourists come out for these processions.

The biggest and most elaborate procession is the Thursday evening leading into the morning of Holy Friday – it doesn’t even begin until midnight and they walk for over 8 hours. To be in a crowd of thousands, all hushed… it was like nothing I have ever experienced before. Rob and I decided to leave around 5:45am… there were still hoards of people arriving and crowding around – children and elderly, party goers, families. You got this sense that they weren’t going home anytime soon. Even though I am not religious, it was beautiful to witness such tradition, passion and dedication.

Moments in Seville:
-haggling with street vendors for a new purse since mine had been completely destroyed on this trip and from the rain in Italy
-having drinks outside on a warm evening, discussing life with my couch surfing host
-seeing a live Spanish jazz band
-exploring the beauty of the Royal Alcazar gardens
-the beautiful architecture and painted tiles of Plaza Espana
-getting lost in the maze of alleys in the Santa Cruz neighborhood
-scaling a 12 foot fence into the Maria Luisa Park at 4am in search of a garden labyrinth which we never did find
-walking along the Guadalquivir River
-meeting Veronica and Marko in a shady dive bar and adoring them instantly – I will actually be staying with them when I get to Copenhagen!
-meeting a guy from Chicago and getting into a 1/2 hour long heated debate over pizza (for the record, deep dish is casserole not pizza)
-after two nights of procession celebrations and heavy drinking, enjoying a very rare night of relaxing, movies and pizza

Food highlights:
-mushroom and gorgonzola croquettes
-eating gazpacho (cold tomato soup) and albondigas (Spanish meatballs) on a rooftop terrace while drinking Sangria on a hot day

Language highlights:
-Paso: the giant float like structure (some being built as far as the 16th century) depicting Christ or the Virgin Mary, carried by 40-50 barefoot men (costaleros) depending on the weight… they march slowly through the streets for hours

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 9
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 119
CURRENCIES: 5

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The Unexpected in Madrid

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” – Martin Buber

Madrid was unexpected. I had a long list of places I had to see and things I had to do. I ignored it all. I worried less about the seeing and instead, concentrated on what I was feeling.

After a week with only my heartbreak to keep me company, it was incredible to find comfort where I was least expecting it. Koen, a co-worker (who lives in the Netherlands and that I have never met in person) offered for me to stay at his apartment in Madrid. I had to pick up the keys from his friend Ana. I was exhausted after an early flight and long morning, expecting to grab the keys and head to the apartment but I found myself completely invigorated within moments of speaking with Ana. She invited me in for breakfast where we sat with her baby daughter, pre-teen son and fabulous mother, Teodora. We talked for three hours about adventure, love and the nature of people. Abuelita Teodora spoke no English but we managed to have powerful (and also hilarious) conversations. She walked me to the apartment, offering words of caution and lessons in Spanish – it’s amazing how little language really is a barrier when people truly want to communicate with each other. She created a care package for me of items from her kitchen (deli meats, milk, a banana, a soda, a beer and bread).

Another co-worker who I have never met and I don’t interact with often offered to pick me up on his scooter for a tour of Madrid (don’t worry Mom, I wore a helmet). The company we work for doesn’t have a central office, we have employees all over the world so I don’t often meet those who live outside of the Bay Area. I had no idea what to expect of Eric, what he would be like or his interests but I was excited to meet up with someone I even somewhat knew. I did not expect that I would develop such a lovely and genuine friendship in the five days I had here.

Eric’s kindness and generosity helped me to not feel so alone and far away from my loved ones. He showed me the true heart of Madrid, picking me up each day for some new adventure, talking for hours on end about everything under the sun. Madrid was nothing I expected and everything I didn’t know to expect. It was nothing of what planned to see and everything of what I needed to experience.

Moments in Madrid:
scooter-ing past beautiful buildings, statues and fountains
date night with myself… drinking sangria and sitting front row center at a Flamenco show at one of the oldest tablaos in Madrid right in the beautiful Santa Ana Plaza (I really am a good date)… I cannot explain the passion witnessed in the rhythm and intensity that is felt in the pounding of the dancers’ feet on the hard wood… I felt it in every part of my body (I had the biggest goon smile on my face for the entire hour)… I’m also pretty sure one guy was the Spanish reincarnation of Patrick Swayze…
-continuing to spot the number 23… everywhere
-stumbling upon a three level tiki bar (and I do have to go into any tiki bar I see in honor of my SF friends), ordering the ‘Doctor Death’ cocktail and having the server place a lei over my head, an umbrella in my hair and hand me a flower while listening to 70’s American rock and having live birds flying around (something that actually terrified me, birds and I don’t get along)
-talking my way passed a line and out of a cover charge in addition to being handed free drink tickets at not one but two clubs
in small world fashion, meeting Gabe from my home state of Connecticut who is studying in Ireland and was visiting Spain
drinking mojitos and dancing until the sun came up
-wandering the streets in search of another place to dance before ditching the crowd I had gathered when I realized it was 5am and I still had an hour train ride home
-the allure of open air markets and the enticing food being sold
-people watching while walking along the Gran Via
-watching people wait in line to take a picture with a plaque denoting the geographical center of Spain
on my last night… seeing Eric’s friend perform in one of my favorite musicals, Priscilla, Reina del Desierto (Priscilla, Queen of the Desert)… is there anything better than gorgeous Spanish men in drag?

Food highlights:
-after all the meat in Germany, Poland and Czech then all the pizza and pasta in Italy… it was nice to eat normal portions of healthier food without that grotesque but happily full feeling
-strawberries in season (it doesn’t get much better than that!)
sangria, delicious and refreshing sangria… mmm…
Ibérican ham (but only in small portions… seeing how it was cut actually disturbed me but it was tasty)
-tapas… so many tapasthese little bites of food were gone before I could take many pictures of what we had ordered
churros with coffee for breakfast

Language highlights:
-nice to meet you: encantada (and for all the amazing people I met in Madrid… it truly was)
-attempting to bargain with a bouncer in limited, high school Spanish to let a group of us in for much cheaper (ummm… señor, venti euros para todos los gringos!)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS:
16
TRAINS:
8
BUSES:
3
STATES:
7
COUNTRIES:
7
CONTINENTS:
3
DAYS TRAVELING:
116
CURRENCIES:
5

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