The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

The best part of traveling alone is that you can decide how “lonely” that can be. I get to choose when I feel like being alone (without hurting anyone’s feelings) and can easily make new friends when I need company.

I had a week in Barcelona to have the space I needed for thinking and the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people when I wanted to be. I enjoyed the ‘tourist’ attractions earlier in the week but by the end, I simply enjoyed ‘living’ in Barcelona. I think that’s the best part of traveling, when you just feel at home wherever you are.

On my last day in Barcelona, I actually had to spend a few hours re-uploading all the pictures in this blog dating back to when it was created two years ago (I made in error in thinking I could delete the archive on WordPress). There was actually something quite beautiful in having to go back to the beginning and reading my thought process before this journey. Nearing the end of this trip, I can’t imagine that it could have been more perfect to be almost forced into reviewing where I started from. I remembered the choice I made to be happy… The choice I made to begin this adventure… I remembered that you do choose in life… even if your only choice is a matter of perception in your reality.

Moments in Barcelona:
-I got very lucky with a beautiful apartment and a kind couchsurfing host… I met my Ray (a 44 year old Frenchman) at the bar he was at with friends to get the keys before heading to the apartment… I did not expect to open the door to a four story house with marble floors, an elevator, a huge patio, a rooftop terrace with beautiful views of the city, a sauna and a maid
-meeting Jan (from Barcelona), Sully (from Boston) and Anny (from Colombia) through couchsurfing… Jan picked us up and took us to Magic, a classic rock bar where we enjoyed tequila sunrises and chatted until very late in the evening… I even ran into another guy that I had chatted with on the site when I was looking for a host (small world as always)
-being a bit sad to be missing Easter traditions with my friends in San Francisco, I had a lovely solo brunch of albondigas con juevos y una cerveza (Spanish meatballs with eggs and a beer)
-after an unsuccessful attempt to meet up with Sully and Anny, I strolled the enormous and beautiful Parc Güell by myself on Easter Sunday… touring Antoni Gaudi’s house and finding Los Sobrino, a string quartet, playing a cover of ‘Firework’ by Katy Perry (I was actually so impressed that I bought their CD)
-catching up with the ladies for tapas and hilarious conversation that I didn’t quite understand but caught the gist of with the waiters
-breathing the fresh Mediterranean Sea air at the beach (even if it was slightly chilly)
Sangria on the beach followed by a dinner of tasty tapas with my new friends
El Bosc de Les Fades: a very well decorated fairy tthemed bar that makes you feel like you are in the forest
-meeting up with Sully at the Plaza Espanya and walking around the National Art Museum of Catalonia, an incredible building with enormous fountains
-having lunch on top of the old bullfighting arena which is now a mall (bullfighting is illegal in Barcelona)
-highlights from Sandemann’s NewEurope walking tour: learning the history of Barcelona and Catalonia and the reason behind their quest for independence from Spain, walking through the beautiful plazas, the structure  dedicated to the Castilleres who climb on each other’s shoulders to reach great heights, Gaudi’s fountain, the Arc del Triomf, a dash of Picasso art and the beautiful mosaics of brightly colored Spanish tiles
-lunch and chit chat with my new friends from the tour: Jess from France, Q from New York and Tim from Australia
-highlights from the Sandemann’s NewEurope Gaudi and Moderisme tour: learning of Gaudi’s life, the tiles lining Passeig de Gràcia from Gaudi’s design, houses from the Modernsime era (and the funny stories behind some of the decor), Gaudi’s Casa Battló (telling the story of Saint Jordi’s battle with the dragon to save the virgin princess), Gaudi’s Casa Milà (the last private house he worked on, a huge inspiration for George Lucas creating Star Wars) and more
-touring the inside of La Sagrada Família… it began construction in 1882 and is still a work in progress, Gaudi began his life’s work when he was 31 years old and worked on it until his tragic death 43 years later… this church is the definition of ‘epic’, every inch of it is grand and has meaning behind it… the way the light floods in is breathtaking, I look forward to visiting in 20 or so years when it’s completed
appreciating the symbolism and beauty in architecture in a way that I honestly never did before
-seeing more 23’s 🙂
-the beautiful view of the city and the construction on La Sagrada Família from the passion facade tower
-hunting for a perfect dress for my Moulin Rouge evening in Paris in a really alternative and funky neighborhood that I couldn’t figure out the name of… there were great vintage stores and awesome record shops
-getting a permanent souvenir from this trip, a beautiful peacock feather from Chiara Pina at LTW Tattoo (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me – I’ll post about this later)
-window shopping along La Rambla and in the windy streets along the edges of this area
-finding the St. Joseph Mercat – La Bouqueria, an amazing farmer’s market
-having a few beers and discussing the key to happiness with Jan at an Irish bar (Michael Collins) that had a great 90’s cover band

Food highlights:
-potato and beef stew at El Pollo Rico, a recommendation from Josh
-so many empanadas, some traditional and some unique
-bread with garlic and smushed tomato (very common in Barcelona, simple but tasty)
murros: fried pig nose (basically like pork grinds)
-deep fried cream cheese balls at Burger King (it was the only place open at 2am and I totally don’t regret it)

Language highlights:
guapo / guapa: this word is thrown around a lot, it basically meaning handsome / pretty and is a term of endearment
-Mexican Spanish: grassy-us … Spain Spanish: grath-ee-uh (I feel like I developed a lisp this past week)
-trying to decipher between Spanish and Catalon (the language spoken here)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 126
CURRENCIES: 5

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Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

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Berlin, it’s been real.

Berlin is the first time I’ve been truly ‘alone’ on this trip (alone in the sense of not staying with friends in the places I’ve visited). I had my first couch surfing experience with a couple named Jan and Melli. I was a bit nervous at first – we grow up in such a culture of fear in the States but the more I travel, the more I am trusting my instincts and the good in other people. I don’t feel alone at all, but rather a part of something bigger than myself.

5 Days in Berlin:
-Being given ‘house shoes’ by Jan, this seems to be a very common thing in Germany
-Babies, left in carriages outside while the parents run in to grab a pastry or complete an errand… while this is normal here, I joked that there was an American on the lose with a ticking biological clock!
My first night in Berlin: Jan and Melli made a pasta dinner, after which we sipped on scotch and discussed both German and American politics
Highlights from the New Europe walking tour with a Brit named Rob McCracken: Brandenburg Gate, the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from the 3rd floor window, the Reichstag government building, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, standing 4 meters above the führerbunker where Hitler and his mistress swallowed cyanide capsules, the former headquarters of the Nazi air force (one of the only buildings remaining from this era to survive the WWII bombings), the Communist propaganda mural still up from post WWII, the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the French Cathedral built in 1705 and the German Cathedral built directly across from the French Cathedral in 1708 but 1 meter taller
-Seeing a bar that’s been open for 33 years straight (literally every minute of every day)
Highlights from the 666 Anti-Pub Crawl: Yesterday bar (a super tacky retro bar right up my ally), Absinthe bar (my first ’real’ absinthe shots), Dr. Pong (where I ended up in an around the world table tennis tournament), a dance club (with music dating to the early Now CDs) – I met some fun pre-med students studying in Copenhagen and got to use my Portuguese with some Brazilians. I didn’t get home until 6:30am and needless to say, I did not make it to my 8am tour of the Reichstag the following morning.
Highlights from Alternative Berlin’s Culture walking tour: Riding and walking for 5 hours through the neighborhoods of Prenzlauerberg, Mitte, Friedrichshain & Kreuzberg – learning of the rich, diverse and ever changing art and music culture in Berlin throughout these major historical moments.
Strolling Alexanderplatz: stopping in at TKMaxx (ahem.. TJMaxx) to buy a warmer under layer and gloves because I did not anticipate how bitter the cold would be
Touring of Reichstag dome (luckily being able to reschedule!): a free tour with beautiful views of Berlin
Strolling the East Side Gallery of the Berlin wall with a coffee in hand: I spotted a Cancer Carl tag, a street artist from Oakland, CA
-Taking a bike ride with Jan to the market to grab groceries for breakfast on my last day, seeing an outdoor petting zoo on the way back in Mauer Park
-Sitting around with Jan and Melli on my last morning with full bellies and sharing stories
-Walking through a memorial to the victims that tried to cross the Berlin Wall with Jan & Melli, talking about the impact of events and war for our families and friends in the history of both Germany and America (then getting hailed on during the walk home)

Language Highlights:
-Tschüss! (pronounced like “OMG choos”)

Food Highlights:
-Currywurst
-Pizza pretzels
-Doner Kebab

Documentaries I need to check out:
-Rabbit a la Berlin
-Swing Kids
-Berlin Kids

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 88
CURRENCIES: 3

(side note: if you ever travel to Berlin – make sure to ‘validate’ your ticket in separate machine, I had a close call because I didn’t realize purchasing a ticket wasn’t the same as having a valid ticket! The train and bus system is generally very easy to get around on but I recommend getting a valid pass for the amount of time you’ll be traveling, it’s just easier!)

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