The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Dublin: the randomness that brings us together

Two weeks ago, I posted on Facebook asking for any connections or advice people had for Denmark, Scotland and Ireland. Shantee, a high school classmate connected me to a guy she met while backpacking in South America who is from Dublin. Sean immediately started helping me plan the Ireland segment of my trip and offered a place to stay with him and his roommate, Cian. Being a traveler himself, Sean knew all the comforts I would appreciate and made sure they were available to me. I got to do laundry, take a hot shower and completely relax.

The day after my arrival, Gośka (my Polish friend through couch surfing) came to meet me. We planned out an amazing adventure for my last week in Europe – Ireland is very dear to her so it was the perfect place and timing to meet up again. I was grateful to not only be meeting up with a familiar face, but to be around a woman whose energy is just so contagious and radiant.

I love the random circumstances that bring people together. The lot of us discussed this often and deeply over several pints during my 4 days in Dublin (there really is a strong drinking culture here). We told many stories of travel, adventures, love, tom-foolery and heartbreak. It’s amazing to watch people from different cultures bond through experience.

Moments in Dublin:
-People watching with my morning coffee at the Grove Road. I met a nice guy named Brian who was telling me how we hopes to visit California so I doodled a little map of my favorite road trip down the Pacific Coast Highway with suggested stops.
-Learning of an important vote happening in Ireland on May 22nd that will determine marriage rights for gay couples. The propaganda for the ‘Vote No’ side was just absolutely absurd and infuriating. I will be checking in to see how this vote goes!
-Wandering down random alleys where I found great graffiti and interesting art pieces.
-Visiting the Trinity College campus (so beautiful) to see the Book of Kells (a book of gospels written in 800 A.D. on sheets made of calfskin with incredibly artistry into each page and letter) and the library in the Great Hall (where there was an awesome exhibit of myths in children’s literature). I talked my way into the student discount. 🙂
-Taking a photo in front of the Dublin Castle of which a green streak appeared (there was nothing green around and I’ve never had anything like that happen with photos on my iPhone before). Perhaps it was a Leprechaun? Or a sign from my Nonnie?
-A tour of the Guinness Storehouse: seeing the history of the factory, the production of the beer and their marketing / advertising over the years. There was a guided experience in the tasting chambers then I enjoyed a beer at the top of the factory in the Gravity Bar overlooking Dublin.
-Beers and pizza at Blackbird with Gośka, Sean and Cian. It was a huge bar with an outdoor patio, funky decorations and board games everywhere.
-Returning home for a few more beers and ending up in a dance party (jumping on the mattresses in the living room).
-Exploring Dublin with Gośka before headed to the tour at the Old Jameson Distillery where we learned about the history of the company, their triple distillation process and had a nice comparison tasting of Irish, Scotch and American whiskeys.
-After having a few more drinks, heading to the National Leprechaun Museum (where I was able to score another student discount) where we played and giggled like children while listening to Irish folklore.
-Beers at O’Neill’s to hear some live Irish music and step dancing (though, we couldn’t actually see it, but rather had to watch a screen of it going on in another part of the bar).

Food Highlights:
-Guinness and Jameson (still sticking with booze being a food group in Ireland)
Bangers and mash followed by Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake at The Porterhouse Brewing Co. (they had an amazing beer list)
Irish Coffee at the Boar’s Head Pub

Language Highlights:
-nap: kip
“ya bloody legend”
-cheers (good health): slainte
-awesome: “fucking class”
-making out: shifting
-from the Jameson label, learning that “sine metu” means ‘without fear’ in Latin

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 147
CURRENCIES: 7

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Tribute in Cork

I had my first major delay of the trip (not a bad track record with 21 flights and 14 trains under my belt). My flight to Cork kept being pushed back further and further due to technical delays. I was so worried that it was going to be cancelled and I would miss the only chance I had to go to Blarney Castle. Luckily, after 6 hours (and a few beers), I boarded the flight to Cork. I spent most of that time working and calling loved ones, unfortunately the delay meant I had to work until 2am after arriving at the AirBnb (I was also bummed about missing an entire day I could have spent in Edinburgh).

With 3 days (but only 1 full day after taking out time for work, arrival and departure), I had little time to explore but I was able to accomplish the most important thing I went there to dokissing the Blarney Stone.

The legend is that if you bend backward to kiss the Blarney Stone, you’ll be gifted great eloquence (the ability to be a smooth talker). My purpose in making this trek was less to receive the gift of gab (I mean, I’d say I’m pretty set in that department) and more to fulfill an unfulfilled dream of a loved one.

Growing up, my (very proud to be Irish) grandmother, Nonnie, would always talk about how one day we’d adventure to Ireland together to kiss the Blarney Stone and find our pot of gold. She passed away 9 years ago, leaving this dream behind. Yesterday, I climbed the winding, wobbly steps up Blarney Castle with tears in my eyes and her memory in my heart. I couldn’t believe I was really doing it…

I kissed the stone and found a quiet place in the Fern Garden by a waterfall to be completely alone and to let the tears flow. I wanted quiet space to embrace her memory and try to be fully present in the moment. I found a patch of clovers near by and buried the picture under it so that a part of her will always be in Ireland.

Every few years, my grandmother would give me a new claddagh ring (representing love, loyalty and friendship) as I outgrew them. When she passed, I had a tattoo done by a good friend of the family… this design has always held such power and significance in my life. In Blarney Castle, I purchased a new ring (ahem… obviously overpriced at the souvenir shop) to commemorate the moment, to act as a visual reminder of my journey and my inspiration to live with vigor and love.

A large part of the reason I was so compelled to endeavor on this journey is due to the lessons that the loss of my grandmother and other loves ones have taught me. This wisdomthe love of friends and familythe gratitude I feel each day… well, that’s my pot of gold. I am the richest girl in the world.

(I actually wrote a post almost two years ago about her and the story of her death which can be read by clicking this link.)

Moments in Cork:
-Hanging out at the AirBnb apartment with two cute pups named Spotty Dotty and Sir Dobby Dobson.
-Exploring the witch’s den, caves (I even hid from the rain in one!), tunnels (I’m glad I’m short because these spaces got very cramped), waterfalls, gardens (there was even a poison garden!) and trails on the grounds of the Blarney Castle. I got lost more times than I can count due to the unreliable, hard to follow map they provide. I slowly descended and ascended the wishing stairs backwards with my eyes closed in hopes that the witch will grant my wish (Irish folklore). I spent 3 hours wandering but could have easily spent all day here, it was so beautiful.
-Walking through the city center and popping into a few quirky shops.
-Literally ‘lol’ing the humor in the signs and advertisement.
-Working in the afternoon with a view of the Shandon tower and the city of Cork in front of me.

Food Highlights:
O’Conaill’s for hot chocolate
Beef and Guinness stew at the Woodford

Language Highlights:
-I said ‘Huh?’ more times than I can count before I just nodded and smiled (my go to when I don’t understand what the hell someone is saying).

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 144
CURRENCIES: 7

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