Florence… on my own again

While I would have preferred to shut myself off to the world and get lost in a pint of ice cream while crying hysterically to every RomCom Netflix has to offer… That just wasn’t an option. I’m smack in the middle of my three month Eurotrip with five days in the beautiful city of Florence… this once in a lifetime endeavor. I gave myself the first night here to be alone, to drown in my sadness. It took so much of me to get out of bed the next morning, knowing I had to find the strength to bear through my pain and do what I came here to do… to explore, to get lost and to experience as much possible.

Florence is the first place where I didn’t have any friends to visit or didn’t try to make friends as I had in Berlin, Warsaw, Krakow and Prague. I wanted to be as alone as I felt. I needed quiet, to sit with my incessant thoughts and over-analyzations. I had to soak in my feelings of sorrow, disappointment, hurt and anger… embracing every aspect of them before I could begin to let that heavy weight and burden go knowing that they are all valid but useless emotions.

In these days, I wandered until my feet ached, I climbed a whole lot of stairs, I ate, I drank, I saw beauty in many forms and on my last evening, I walked the heart of the city at midnight for an hour in the pouring rain, allowing myself to give in to deep, guttural sobs… to feel the pain in every part of my body and heart.

I am not sure how a week can feel so long and so short at the same time. I threw myself back into work in the evenings and spent the days touring. I took myself on dates… I ate alone for the first time, a full three course meal seated in an empty restaurant… I went to museums to stand in awe of David and beautiful Renaissance paintings… I did my hair and makeup, threw on the only dress I have with me and went to the opera.

I was alone physically but received such an outpouring of love from close friends, family and even some people I barely know… it reminded me of what I have built, this tapestry of life I have weaved of experiences and human connections. I have worked hard to be where I am… physically and emotionally. I wasn’t always happy, I actually didn’t used to think life was worth living. It took years of work, introspection and patience to become the brave, open and smiling person that I am now. Happiness is a conscious effort, a practice of every day gratitude. I am grateful to be exactly who and where I am. I am grateful for the people in my life, for the inspiration and the encouragement. It reminds me that I am not really alone and gives me the strength I need to continue on and embrace this adventure.

Moments in Florence:
-On the first day, I walked along the Arno river and across the Ponte Vecchio. I listened to a violinist play Frank Sinatra’s ‘My Way’. It could not have been or felt more perfect.
-I saw the Fountain of Neptune, climbed the stairs to view the city from the Piazzale Michelangelo and got lost in the alleys.
-I toured San Lorenzo’s Basilica – built in 393 and reconstructed in 1418. I saw works by Donatello and Michelangelo in this beautiful church.
-I woke up early to avoid lines and climbed 463 steps to the top of the Duomo as monks chanted in the church below. I then climbed 152 more steps to the top of the bell tower for a better view of the Duomo. I lit a candle in the Santa Maria Basilica then explored the crypt that lies beneath it.
-I enjoyed the solitude of a private patio for work and reflection.
-I was smacked in the face with the smell of leather as I roamed San Lorenzo’s market and haggled for a new pair of sunglasses to replace the ones I lost.
-I saved an older gentlemen from being pick pocketed on a bus.
-I visited the Galleria dell’Accademia where I saw instruments, statues and paintings that were centuries older than America. I saw my family’s lucky #23 on a harpsichord from the 18th century which was a sign I needed (the number also came up 3 more times that day). I marveled at the sheer size and beauty of Michelangelo’s David.
-I got lost in the Galleria degli Uffizi. I bargained for them to let me in 2 1/2 hours earlier than my reservation was for and I’m grateful I did. It’s a place you could easily spend all day. There are long hallways and over 100 rooms (then offshoots of rooms in those rooms). Everything is art… the art itself, the ceilings, the floors… It’s like walking in a giant art maze. I tried to soak it all in but it was a bit overwhelming and stuffy, I was happy to be back out in fresh air after 2 hours. It’s easily my favorite museum, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. The art is indescribably beautiful. I was in awe at the size and detail in these works. Boticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ was incredible to see in person.
-I waited for a bus in the rain when a 4’8” grandmother (and that’s being generous with those inches) approached and spoke to me. I just smiled and gave shrug (I couldn’t understand what she said but I could tell it was a comment about me getting soaked). She smiled back and extended her arm as high as she could to reach the umbrella over my head. She’ll never know how much this gesture of kindness meant to me.
-I listed to Mozart, Amadeus and selections from famous operas (La Traviata, La Bohème, Tosca, Madame Butterfly, The Marriage of Figaro, and the Barber of Seville) in the beauty and acoustics of the Santa Monaca Church while drinking champagne.

Food highlights:
-I ate Tuscan tomato bread soup at a family owned restaurant. My server, Tony, works in LA as a chef and was home visiting his family for a few months. He brought me the food his mother made with pride and shared a glass of prosecco he and his brother made with me.
Cornetto, the Italian croissant. I ate it fresh from the oven with a cappuccino on a crisp morning.
-I had milk with honey & sesame and coffee crunch gelato at Perché No which was voted one of the best in Florence.

Language highlights:
Life is beautiful: La vita è bella
Please: Per favore
How much?: Quanto costa? A necessity for haggling in the market. Always express your disdain for the first price they give, pause a moment and state what you’d like to pay for the item. If they say no, place it down, say thank you and slowly walk away. 90% of the time, they’ll call you back with ‘okay. okay.’

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 7
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 110
CURRENCIES: 5

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Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

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