The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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Florence… on my own again

While I would have preferred to shut myself off to the world and get lost in a pint of ice cream while crying hysterically to every RomCom Netflix has to offer… That just wasn’t an option. I’m smack in the middle of my three month Eurotrip with five days in the beautiful city of Florence… this once in a lifetime endeavor. I gave myself the first night here to be alone, to drown in my sadness. It took so much of me to get out of bed the next morning, knowing I had to find the strength to bear through my pain and do what I came here to do… to explore, to get lost and to experience as much possible.

Florence is the first place where I didn’t have any friends to visit or didn’t try to make friends as I had in Berlin, Warsaw, Krakow and Prague. I wanted to be as alone as I felt. I needed quiet, to sit with my incessant thoughts and over-analyzations. I had to soak in my feelings of sorrow, disappointment, hurt and anger… embracing every aspect of them before I could begin to let that heavy weight and burden go knowing that they are all valid but useless emotions.

In these days, I wandered until my feet ached, I climbed a whole lot of stairs, I ate, I drank, I saw beauty in many forms and on my last evening, I walked the heart of the city at midnight for an hour in the pouring rain, allowing myself to give in to deep, guttural sobs… to feel the pain in every part of my body and heart.

I am not sure how a week can feel so long and so short at the same time. I threw myself back into work in the evenings and spent the days touring. I took myself on dates… I ate alone for the first time, a full three course meal seated in an empty restaurant… I went to museums to stand in awe of David and beautiful Renaissance paintings… I did my hair and makeup, threw on the only dress I have with me and went to the opera.

I was alone physically but received such an outpouring of love from close friends, family and even some people I barely know… it reminded me of what I have built, this tapestry of life I have weaved of experiences and human connections. I have worked hard to be where I am… physically and emotionally. I wasn’t always happy, I actually didn’t used to think life was worth living. It took years of work, introspection and patience to become the brave, open and smiling person that I am now. Happiness is a conscious effort, a practice of every day gratitude. I am grateful to be exactly who and where I am. I am grateful for the people in my life, for the inspiration and the encouragement. It reminds me that I am not really alone and gives me the strength I need to continue on and embrace this adventure.

Moments in Florence:
-On the first day, I walked along the Arno river and across the Ponte Vecchio. I listened to a violinist play Frank Sinatra’s ‘My Way’. It could not have been or felt more perfect.
-I saw the Fountain of Neptune, climbed the stairs to view the city from the Piazzale Michelangelo and got lost in the alleys.
-I toured San Lorenzo’s Basilica – built in 393 and reconstructed in 1418. I saw works by Donatello and Michelangelo in this beautiful church.
-I woke up early to avoid lines and climbed 463 steps to the top of the Duomo as monks chanted in the church below. I then climbed 152 more steps to the top of the bell tower for a better view of the Duomo. I lit a candle in the Santa Maria Basilica then explored the crypt that lies beneath it.
-I enjoyed the solitude of a private patio for work and reflection.
-I was smacked in the face with the smell of leather as I roamed San Lorenzo’s market and haggled for a new pair of sunglasses to replace the ones I lost.
-I saved an older gentlemen from being pick pocketed on a bus.
-I visited the Galleria dell’Accademia where I saw instruments, statues and paintings that were centuries older than America. I saw my family’s lucky #23 on a harpsichord from the 18th century which was a sign I needed (the number also came up 3 more times that day). I marveled at the sheer size and beauty of Michelangelo’s David.
-I got lost in the Galleria degli Uffizi. I bargained for them to let me in 2 1/2 hours earlier than my reservation was for and I’m grateful I did. It’s a place you could easily spend all day. There are long hallways and over 100 rooms (then offshoots of rooms in those rooms). Everything is art… the art itself, the ceilings, the floors… It’s like walking in a giant art maze. I tried to soak it all in but it was a bit overwhelming and stuffy, I was happy to be back out in fresh air after 2 hours. It’s easily my favorite museum, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. The art is indescribably beautiful. I was in awe at the size and detail in these works. Boticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ was incredible to see in person.
-I waited for a bus in the rain when a 4’8” grandmother (and that’s being generous with those inches) approached and spoke to me. I just smiled and gave shrug (I couldn’t understand what she said but I could tell it was a comment about me getting soaked). She smiled back and extended her arm as high as she could to reach the umbrella over my head. She’ll never know how much this gesture of kindness meant to me.
-I listed to Mozart, Amadeus and selections from famous operas (La Traviata, La Bohème, Tosca, Madame Butterfly, The Marriage of Figaro, and the Barber of Seville) in the beauty and acoustics of the Santa Monaca Church while drinking champagne.

Food highlights:
-I ate Tuscan tomato bread soup at a family owned restaurant. My server, Tony, works in LA as a chef and was home visiting his family for a few months. He brought me the food his mother made with pride and shared a glass of prosecco he and his brother made with me.
Cornetto, the Italian croissant. I ate it fresh from the oven with a cappuccino on a crisp morning.
-I had milk with honey & sesame and coffee crunch gelato at Perché No which was voted one of the best in Florence.

Language highlights:
Life is beautiful: La vita è bella
Please: Per favore
How much?: Quanto costa? A necessity for haggling in the market. Always express your disdain for the first price they give, pause a moment and state what you’d like to pay for the item. If they say no, place it down, say thank you and slowly walk away. 90% of the time, they’ll call you back with ‘okay. okay.’

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 7
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 110
CURRENCIES: 5

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Quickie in Kraków

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe –  thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

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One Night in Warsaw

I only spent 37 hours in Warsaw, but every moment was filled with such love and delight. There was something about this place that was instantly so familiar to me. I am on the train to Krakow now.. part of me wishing that I’d had more time in Warsaw but the other part of me knowing that it was perfect just as it was. 

I had my second couchsurfing experience with a woman named Gośka, a 23 year old medical student. I cannot explain her energy, her pure love for meeting new people and for existing in the moment. I fell in love with her instantly. She picked me up from the bus station at 6am and after a few hours of napping, we had what I can only describe as a whirlwind of powerful conversation, love and gratitude in its most genuine form
 
I initially decided to come to Poland solely to see a project my best friend, Savana, spent three summers working on – the recreation of a wooden synagogue’s structure and the murals that adorned the inside which was burned down in WWII. What I did not anticipate was that there were bigger plans for me than just a trip to the Museum of the History of Polish Jews to see this project. I was meant to meet Gośka, to have this beautiful soul in my life.
 
Gośka and I walked around for hours, talking and laughing. It felt as if we’d always known each other. That evening, we had a delicious meal and met up with her friends for drinks. The people I meet keeping asking me what I notice is different about their country compared to America. But truthfully, I don’t see many differences. Maybe it’s because I am not looking for them? Or is it because I am instead searching for what makes us similar? For the common threads of humanity that connect us?
 
On the way home, at 4am, I stopped Gośka to take a deep breath and to remember the moment we were in. I asked her if she’d ever had that feeling of ‘I am exactly where I am meant to be’ or ‘I am exactly who I am meant to be’… I said, “these are the moments in life we have to hold on to because they mean that everything up until this point… all the good things, the adventures, the tragedies, the heartbreaks… have led us here”. We stood with our feet on either side of a man hole to commemorate the moment (it seemed appropriate at the time – perhaps due to the 17 shots of vodka we consumed?). I said, “remember this very second and when things are difficult, remember that life is only preparing us for more moments like this… to appreciate how beautiful life really is.
 
The more I am grateful for these moments, the happier I become and the happier I become, the more moments like this I seem to have. It’s a blessed circle. With the strong women I am meeting and the statues on display of these warrior women I see everywhere in Europe, I feel like I am on a tour of female empowerment. I am a woman, traveling ‘alone’ but making communities in each place I visit – embracing the people and the culture in each destination. Choosing to create the life I want to lead – knowing that happiness is a conscious effort and choice
 
As my train was departing, Goska gave me a book entitled ‘Led by Destiny‘ which is the story of two American backpackers. I cannot wait to read it and to see when in life I will see my Polish sister again. The title of the book could not be more appropriate as… deep breath… I am right where and who I am meant to be… in this very moment. Without the previous moments in my life that were painful and lonely, I would not appreciate this journey so deeply. Sometimes, the only way to change your life is to change your outlook on it… this will transform everything.
 
Moments in Warsaw:
-Goska made homemade hummus and fresh orange juice for my first lunch.
Royal Lazienki Park: We walked around to see this beautiful park on a crisp day. We saw amazing sculptures and ‘the palace on the water’ but the highlight was certainly the animals. Poland has THE CUTEST squirrels I have seen. They are smaller than American squirrels and red with tufted hair on their ears. They are so friendly and adorable, I wish I could have one as a pet. Also in this park, it is common for peacocks to wander freely. We came across one who was proudly strutting his feathers, turning almost as if he were showing how handsome he was. It was one of the most majestic and wonderful moments in my life.
-Walking through Old Town with a coffee in hand, discussing life and love with Goska.
-Going from one small, cramped bar to another to take shots of flavored vodka in each. I am impressed I was alive this morning. Two of Goska’s friends joined us and we talked so freely about many topics. I’ve learned that people do not hate Americans the way we think they do but that actually it’s very common to feel like other places have bad ideas of your country. 
-Goska and I making a toast to our mothers: “to the women we swore we’d be nothing like as girls but are now proud to be like as women.”
Museum of the History of Polish Jews: I met Savana’s friend, Olga, who worked on the mural with her and two Americans visting from Paris where they study law (and I hope to see them again!). The museum just opened last year and everything about it was awe-inspringthe architecture, the exhibits, the history. There was a Purim celebration and I got prune hamentashen to celebrate. It made me happy because I love them so much as they remind me of my close friend and second mother (she makes large batches every year).
Wilanow Royal Palace: We went to see the gardens and the palace but with luck on our side, there was an amazing light display! They used 3D projectors on the building itself, using the building’s features as a guide to tell a moving story – there is just no way to describe what we saw! It was by far one of the coolest installations I’ve ever seen. We danced and giggled through the gardens. There was an Alice in Wonderland maze and a Cinderella horse and carriage – all made of lights. It had that special feeling that happens around Christmas. Goska and Paulina had no idea there was such an event when we planned to go – it was just one of those amazing ‘you couldn’t plan this if you tried‘ moments to happen upon.
 

Language highlights:
smacznego: said at the beginning of a meal
nostrovia: cheers!
curva: bitch
dziekuje: thank you (pronounced jen-koo-ya)

Food highlights:
zurek: polish sour cream soup with white sausage and boiled egg
-spinach pierogis in a blue cheese sauce
-beetroot soup
-strudel crepe baked with cheese
 
AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 91
CURRENCIES: 4 – I feel VERY rich in Zloty 😉

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