The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
10897123_10152605566823045_4940656262075224389_n
10570328_10152605570683045_8046952106497023193_n
After
packing after trip
11069597_10152733573703045_496570013423016456_n

To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

img_9820img_9682img_9883_2img_936810941424_10152639083123045_5272512502274315890_n 10959905_10152639621968045_2043463215382148232_n img_0062 img_0265 img_0516 img_0719 img_0781 img_0986 img_1410 img_1718 img_1721 img_2101 img_2158 img_2165 img_2193 17121_10152726636103045_6859155273884383223_n img_2322 img_2373 img_2445 img_2695 img_3050 img_3114 img_3309_2 img_3270_2 img_3323_2 img_3407 img_3409 img_3497 10669171_10206767801138685_4027230533269695078_o img_3757 img_3771 img_3957 img_3979 img_4048 img_4088 img_4094 img_4115 10841970_10152801641268045_6144359314478226468_o

London: The Final Countdown (da da ding ding ding)

Throughout four months of travel, I have been able to update my blog within two days of leaving a city even while working, enjoying the new destination and planning for the next. However, I’ve been back in Connecticut for almost three weeks and have been dragging my feet to write my ‘last’ blog post. Perhaps I was concerned that penning this entry would really cement that the trip is over?

It was a beautiful time to be in London… I was blessed with more perfect weather and everything seemed to fall right into place. Literally everything.

It was the perfect last stop as so many things came full circle and I got to meet up with many people I knew from home or traveling. It was a good ease back into not being alone anymore: I caught up with Ellie who I met at a bar in Venice in March… Tim who I met on a walking tour in Barcelona in April… Claire, another of my colleagues from my remote company… Connor, Jon’s co-worker and a good friend of ours who happens to be working in London for a few months…my favorite kiwi, Dean who I’d met in San Francisco when I first moved there 4 years ago… Angel, who I worked with at Outback Steakhouse ten years ago… and the stars aligned for Nicola and I to be together again in the last days of my trip which could not have been more poetic since I began this journey with her in Australia 4 months prior.

Angel and her husband, Andrew were incredible hosts. I barely knew Angel outside of work but always felt a strong connection with her. Catching up after a decade demonstrated that my intuition is usually correct. We had such a wonderful time chatting and laughing as if we’d grown up together and never spent a day apart. The irony of watching my former Outback co-worker get along so well with my Australian friend was not lost on me and was too heart-warming to put into words (but don’t worry, we have the pictures that are worth thousands of ‘em).

I think it will be awhile before I can really reflect on these four months as a whole. At the moment, it seems like a hazy dream…. something that happened to someone else in a different life. I’m home and it feels as if nothing AND everything has changed.

Moments in London:
-Staying with Angel and her husband, Andrew, in the apartments originally built for the athletes of the 2012 Olympics – London is setting a great example of what sustainability and community improvement for host countries can be like
-Walking along the Thames River with Connor to see the London Eye, Big Ben, Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Sky Garden and the Tower of London… we enjoyed a beer by the water then had lunch (where I was ID’ed to prove I was of legal drinking age which is 18 – score!) before I had to start work
-Surviving the central line, or Satan’s Asshole, as Andrew so aptly calls it for it’s depth under ground, horrendous, screeching sounds, packed cars and muggy heat
-After running up over 200 stairs and about a mile to the meeting location, Angel and I barely made it to Covent Garden in time for the walking tour to meet up with Tim
Highlights from Sandeman’s New Europe Walking Tour: Buckingham Palace (including the changing of the guards), Churchill’s War Cabinet Bunker, The House of Parliament, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the Palace of Westminster and St. James’s Park where I saw a black swan (I never knew they really existed)!
-I learned what ‘hay fever‘ is by experiencing it’s madness with the blooming trees of London and the tiny, sharp pollen prickers that try to blind you (OUCH!)
-Meeting Claire and having just as much fun in person as we do on conference lines… we got coffee and walked through the Victorian Park
-Meeting Ellie for ‘a drink’ which turned into two bottles of wine over girl talk and a Coors while waiting for the train home
-Hanging out in the super hip Camden district with Angel and Nicola where we flipped through the racks of vintage clothing of the Stable Markets, checked out the Rave / Kink clothing in Cyderdog and dressed to the nines as Victorian badasses for old time-y photos (where we were a major, but entertaining pain in the ass)… we spent the entire afternoon shopping and giggling like we were in a 90’s montage
-Dean led the ladies on a long walk to the Camden Town Brewery for some fucking delicious brews, gave us the real science behind the ‘lock system’ for boat passage and then took us to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese (the oldest pub in London where we attempted to list all 50 states then had a TMI conversation with the last stragglers in the bar before closing)
-Buying matching Paddington Bear pajamas after walking around the mall with Nicola (I wish we had PriMark and especially Tiger in the States) then strolling through Hackney Wick, East London and the Ridley Road Market stopping for ciders and beers in each neighborhood
-Walking toward the Shoreditch neighborhood and witnessing a crazy scene of a woman running back and forth across a busy street, trying to fight two men with a baby in her arms… it’s good to know that dialing ‘9-1-1’ works anywhere thanks to the influence of American culture!
-Spending my last night in Europe with Connor… we had a beer a Waxy O’Connor’s (another fun theme bar), walked around the Theater district of Soho (which reminds me of Times Square), watched the street performers and ate dinner at Jamie Oliver’s diner (my food crush since 2001)

Food Highlights:
-Angel cooking British classics she learned from her mother in law including bangers and mash, English breakfast and scones with clotted milk and black currant jam
toffee crisp chocolate bar, England has some tasty candy
Shepard’s Pie with sweet potatoes and lentils
-the most delicious chicken shawarma wrap
Indian food takeout (so good) during a Disney movie night… London really is amazing for all cuisines
my last meal in Europe: bangers and mash with a proper pint at the airport

Language Highlights:
-making out: snogging
-crosswalk: zeh-bra crossing
-ping pong: whiff waff
-that’s crazy: that’s mental!
-the story behind the expression ‘a stiff drink’ involving a dead admiral in a brandy barrel and some thirsty sailors

AIRPORTS: 24
FLIGHTS: 22
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 15
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 154
CURRENCIES: 7

IMG_3979 IMG_3988 IMG_3992 IMG_3995 IMG_3998 IMG_3999 IMG_4005 IMG_4010 IMG_4014 IMG_4017 IMG_4022 IMG_4024 IMG_4025 IMG_4027 IMG_4028 IMG_4045 IMG_4041 IMG_4047 IMG_4048 IMG_4054 IMG_4057 IMG_4059 IMG_4060 IMG_4063 IMG_4064 IMG_4065 IMG_4067IMG_4068 IMG_4072 IMG_4081 IMG_4088 IMG_4082 IMG_4085 IMG_4087 IMG_4094 IMG_4098 IMG_4102 10841970_10152801641268045_6144359314478226468_o 11112968_10152801641258045_6817546662692162274_o IMG_4103 IMG_4105 IMG_4111 IMG_4112 IMG_4113IMG_4114 IMG_4115 IMG_4124 IMG_4125 IMG_4139 IMG_4153 IMG_4154 IMG_4156 IMG_4166 IMG_4194 IMG_4169 IMG_4170 IMG_4182 IMG_4174 IMG_4178 IMG_4179 IMG_4184 IMG_4188 IMG_4195

True colors shining through

“The peacock is a symbol of integrity and the beauty we can achieve when we endeavor to show our true colors.”

When I was walking through a park in Warsaw a little over a month ago, a peacock crossed my path. He opened his feathers and stood in front of me, gently swaying in half circles to the right… to the left.. back and forth for about 10 minutes. There was no female around to impress, so it was rare that he did this… It felt like he just needed to present himself in this moment. It was as if he was saying, ‘here I am, world… I’m beautiful, aren’t I?’. I have never used the world majestic to describe anything before, but it seems to be the only one fitting this experience.

IMG_0498

I made an active decision to be happy 6 years ago, to not let ugliness and sadness consume me anymore. I worked hard to be the person I am today. And in the last two years, I channeled that energy to create the life I want to lead… I was promoted, bought a car, scored (and subsequently gave up for this trip) an awesome apartment in SF, fell in (and lost) love for the first time in 9 years, completely changed my lifestyle (losing 29% of my body weight), finished three Tough Mudders, paid off 50% of my student loans, paid off all of my credit card debt, had more adventures than I can list and traveled a good chunk of the globe (alone).

I know what it is to empower myself through decision and action… to feel pride in myself. Above all, my greatest accomplishment is that I have been able to remain open, vulnerable and loving despite deep loss and disappointment. Remaining this way allows me to experience the best parts of humanity, friendship and myself. I think the struggles allow me to embrace life with great fervor… As if knowing the dark depths allows me to appreciate the light above more. In a way, I’m grateful for the shit times… for the wisdom and strength I possess in overcoming it all.

I chose to get a tattoo to remember this time and feeling in my life… a peacock feather. I was lucky in finding a wonderful artist in Barcelona (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me). I want to remember this journey that began years ago with one seemingly simple choice… and to remember the beauty and power in vulnerabilityas a symbol of my warrior spirit and brave heart.

IMG_2609_2

I am now at the point in my life where I too am saying ‘here I am, world… I’m beautiful, aren’t I?’

“The peacocks feathers are meaningful to those with this power animal, for they also have an association with resurrection, rising out of the ashes. They can help us shed the old feathers of the past and to take back the true beauty of our individuality.”
– Ina Woolcott

IMG_0499

Quickie in Kraków

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe –  thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

2 building through barbed wire train car tracks B&W shoes IMG_0684 IMG_0686 IMG_0694 IMG_0698 IMG_0718 IMG_0712 IMG_0714 IMG_0717 IMG_0719

One Night in Warsaw

I only spent 37 hours in Warsaw, but every moment was filled with such love and delight. There was something about this place that was instantly so familiar to me. I am on the train to Krakow now.. part of me wishing that I’d had more time in Warsaw but the other part of me knowing that it was perfect just as it was. 

I had my second couchsurfing experience with a woman named Gośka, a 23 year old medical student. I cannot explain her energy, her pure love for meeting new people and for existing in the moment. I fell in love with her instantly. She picked me up from the bus station at 6am and after a few hours of napping, we had what I can only describe as a whirlwind of powerful conversation, love and gratitude in its most genuine form
 
I initially decided to come to Poland solely to see a project my best friend, Savana, spent three summers working on – the recreation of a wooden synagogue’s structure and the murals that adorned the inside which was burned down in WWII. What I did not anticipate was that there were bigger plans for me than just a trip to the Museum of the History of Polish Jews to see this project. I was meant to meet Gośka, to have this beautiful soul in my life.
 
Gośka and I walked around for hours, talking and laughing. It felt as if we’d always known each other. That evening, we had a delicious meal and met up with her friends for drinks. The people I meet keeping asking me what I notice is different about their country compared to America. But truthfully, I don’t see many differences. Maybe it’s because I am not looking for them? Or is it because I am instead searching for what makes us similar? For the common threads of humanity that connect us?
 
On the way home, at 4am, I stopped Gośka to take a deep breath and to remember the moment we were in. I asked her if she’d ever had that feeling of ‘I am exactly where I am meant to be’ or ‘I am exactly who I am meant to be’… I said, “these are the moments in life we have to hold on to because they mean that everything up until this point… all the good things, the adventures, the tragedies, the heartbreaks… have led us here”. We stood with our feet on either side of a man hole to commemorate the moment (it seemed appropriate at the time – perhaps due to the 17 shots of vodka we consumed?). I said, “remember this very second and when things are difficult, remember that life is only preparing us for more moments like this… to appreciate how beautiful life really is.
 
The more I am grateful for these moments, the happier I become and the happier I become, the more moments like this I seem to have. It’s a blessed circle. With the strong women I am meeting and the statues on display of these warrior women I see everywhere in Europe, I feel like I am on a tour of female empowerment. I am a woman, traveling ‘alone’ but making communities in each place I visit – embracing the people and the culture in each destination. Choosing to create the life I want to lead – knowing that happiness is a conscious effort and choice
 
As my train was departing, Goska gave me a book entitled ‘Led by Destiny‘ which is the story of two American backpackers. I cannot wait to read it and to see when in life I will see my Polish sister again. The title of the book could not be more appropriate as… deep breath… I am right where and who I am meant to be… in this very moment. Without the previous moments in my life that were painful and lonely, I would not appreciate this journey so deeply. Sometimes, the only way to change your life is to change your outlook on it… this will transform everything.
 
Moments in Warsaw:
-Goska made homemade hummus and fresh orange juice for my first lunch.
Royal Lazienki Park: We walked around to see this beautiful park on a crisp day. We saw amazing sculptures and ‘the palace on the water’ but the highlight was certainly the animals. Poland has THE CUTEST squirrels I have seen. They are smaller than American squirrels and red with tufted hair on their ears. They are so friendly and adorable, I wish I could have one as a pet. Also in this park, it is common for peacocks to wander freely. We came across one who was proudly strutting his feathers, turning almost as if he were showing how handsome he was. It was one of the most majestic and wonderful moments in my life.
-Walking through Old Town with a coffee in hand, discussing life and love with Goska.
-Going from one small, cramped bar to another to take shots of flavored vodka in each. I am impressed I was alive this morning. Two of Goska’s friends joined us and we talked so freely about many topics. I’ve learned that people do not hate Americans the way we think they do but that actually it’s very common to feel like other places have bad ideas of your country. 
-Goska and I making a toast to our mothers: “to the women we swore we’d be nothing like as girls but are now proud to be like as women.”
Museum of the History of Polish Jews: I met Savana’s friend, Olga, who worked on the mural with her and two Americans visting from Paris where they study law (and I hope to see them again!). The museum just opened last year and everything about it was awe-inspringthe architecture, the exhibits, the history. There was a Purim celebration and I got prune hamentashen to celebrate. It made me happy because I love them so much as they remind me of my close friend and second mother (she makes large batches every year).
Wilanow Royal Palace: We went to see the gardens and the palace but with luck on our side, there was an amazing light display! They used 3D projectors on the building itself, using the building’s features as a guide to tell a moving story – there is just no way to describe what we saw! It was by far one of the coolest installations I’ve ever seen. We danced and giggled through the gardens. There was an Alice in Wonderland maze and a Cinderella horse and carriage – all made of lights. It had that special feeling that happens around Christmas. Goska and Paulina had no idea there was such an event when we planned to go – it was just one of those amazing ‘you couldn’t plan this if you tried‘ moments to happen upon.
 

Language highlights:
smacznego: said at the beginning of a meal
nostrovia: cheers!
curva: bitch
dziekuje: thank you (pronounced jen-koo-ya)

Food highlights:
zurek: polish sour cream soup with white sausage and boiled egg
-spinach pierogis in a blue cheese sauce
-beetroot soup
-strudel crepe baked with cheese
 
AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 91
CURRENCIES: 4 – I feel VERY rich in Zloty 😉

IMG_0476 IMG_0482 IMG_0485 IMG_0492 IMG_0426 IMG_0434 IMG_0498 IMG_0499 IMG_0500 IMG_0501 IMG_0506 IMG_0510 IMG_0512 IMG_0516 IMG_0518 IMG_0524 IMG_0534 IMG_0555 IMG_0558 IMG_0557 IMG_0559 IMG_0571 IMG_0575 IMG_0581 IMG_0584 IMG_0588 IMG_0589