One year on the road.

One year ago today, on a rainy day in San Francisco, I packed all of my belongings in a 6x8x8 storage unit. I had no clue when I would be unpacking it, where or with who. I didn’t imagine that a year later, I’d still be traveling.

I have been living out of a backpack, traveling the U.S., Australia, and Europe for 12 months while working 40-60 hours a week in Pacific Coast hours. I have explored corners of the world and myself in ways I am still trying to understand. I have been invigorated and exhaustedinspired and discouraged…. enamored and lonely

I still haven’t had time to process it all, I’ve remained in a constant state of movement since I returned stateside in May… I have been flying or driving my SmartCar to visit friends in many cities, completing 5 more Tough Mudders and have started studying to become a certified personal trainer. There has been little rest, but a lot of love and learning.

I’m at a crossroads in my life, relationship and career… vulnerable and exposed in ways I’ve never felt before. I’ve learned to exist more peacefully in the proverbial ‘grey area‘ but it’s not been easy or something I’m entirely comfortable with.

I have a few more weeks of travel before I return to San Francisco on January 3rd to begin the next big adventure… finding home. I crave this stability. I cannot wait to return to my community there, I have traveled the world and realized that it is where I belong. It’s interesting what becomes clearer as the focus or lens changes. I’ll be unpacking and rooting in, creating routines and in some ways, beginning a new life in a familiar place. I’m walking the fine line between excited and terrified. 

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The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by.”

I am in tears over this piece my best friend sent to me today. Since returning, I have been having such a difficult time trying to put into words my experiences while traveling alone abroad for four months. It’s almost like I can’t acknowledge that it even happened because I don’t know what to make of it…. yet. Jed Jenkins so eloquently put into words why I began this journey, maybe it will help me to find my own words to describe what I have learned as a result of it.

“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by… I want to be aware of every day I’m alive and I want to make it to 85 and be exhausted because I have been alive and awake every single day… It’s about getting out of your routine and that could look like anything… And that’s why I’m doing this bike trip because I don’t want my days to control me… I want to control my days… I want to choose a mind and a soul that’s wide awake… It turns your 100 years on this planet into a thousand.”

See the video here: https://vimeo.com/120206922

London: The Final Countdown (da da ding ding ding)

Throughout four months of travel, I have been able to update my blog within two days of leaving a city even while working, enjoying the new destination and planning for the next. However, I’ve been back in Connecticut for almost three weeks and have been dragging my feet to write my ‘last’ blog post. Perhaps I was concerned that penning this entry would really cement that the trip is over?

It was a beautiful time to be in London… I was blessed with more perfect weather and everything seemed to fall right into place. Literally everything.

It was the perfect last stop as so many things came full circle and I got to meet up with many people I knew from home or traveling. It was a good ease back into not being alone anymore: I caught up with Ellie who I met at a bar in Venice in March… Tim who I met on a walking tour in Barcelona in April… Claire, another of my colleagues from my remote company… Connor, Jon’s co-worker and a good friend of ours who happens to be working in London for a few months…my favorite kiwi, Dean who I’d met in San Francisco when I first moved there 4 years ago… Angel, who I worked with at Outback Steakhouse ten years ago… and the stars aligned for Nicola and I to be together again in the last days of my trip which could not have been more poetic since I began this journey with her in Australia 4 months prior.

Angel and her husband, Andrew were incredible hosts. I barely knew Angel outside of work but always felt a strong connection with her. Catching up after a decade demonstrated that my intuition is usually correct. We had such a wonderful time chatting and laughing as if we’d grown up together and never spent a day apart. The irony of watching my former Outback co-worker get along so well with my Australian friend was not lost on me and was too heart-warming to put into words (but don’t worry, we have the pictures that are worth thousands of ‘em).

I think it will be awhile before I can really reflect on these four months as a whole. At the moment, it seems like a hazy dream…. something that happened to someone else in a different life. I’m home and it feels as if nothing AND everything has changed.

Moments in London:
-Staying with Angel and her husband, Andrew, in the apartments originally built for the athletes of the 2012 Olympics – London is setting a great example of what sustainability and community improvement for host countries can be like
-Walking along the Thames River with Connor to see the London Eye, Big Ben, Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Sky Garden and the Tower of London… we enjoyed a beer by the water then had lunch (where I was ID’ed to prove I was of legal drinking age which is 18 – score!) before I had to start work
-Surviving the central line, or Satan’s Asshole, as Andrew so aptly calls it for it’s depth under ground, horrendous, screeching sounds, packed cars and muggy heat
-After running up over 200 stairs and about a mile to the meeting location, Angel and I barely made it to Covent Garden in time for the walking tour to meet up with Tim
Highlights from Sandeman’s New Europe Walking Tour: Buckingham Palace (including the changing of the guards), Churchill’s War Cabinet Bunker, The House of Parliament, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the Palace of Westminster and St. James’s Park where I saw a black swan (I never knew they really existed)!
-I learned what ‘hay fever‘ is by experiencing it’s madness with the blooming trees of London and the tiny, sharp pollen prickers that try to blind you (OUCH!)
-Meeting Claire and having just as much fun in person as we do on conference lines… we got coffee and walked through the Victorian Park
-Meeting Ellie for ‘a drink’ which turned into two bottles of wine over girl talk and a Coors while waiting for the train home
-Hanging out in the super hip Camden district with Angel and Nicola where we flipped through the racks of vintage clothing of the Stable Markets, checked out the Rave / Kink clothing in Cyderdog and dressed to the nines as Victorian badasses for old time-y photos (where we were a major, but entertaining pain in the ass)… we spent the entire afternoon shopping and giggling like we were in a 90’s montage
-Dean led the ladies on a long walk to the Camden Town Brewery for some fucking delicious brews, gave us the real science behind the ‘lock system’ for boat passage and then took us to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese (the oldest pub in London where we attempted to list all 50 states then had a TMI conversation with the last stragglers in the bar before closing)
-Buying matching Paddington Bear pajamas after walking around the mall with Nicola (I wish we had PriMark and especially Tiger in the States) then strolling through Hackney Wick, East London and the Ridley Road Market stopping for ciders and beers in each neighborhood
-Walking toward the Shoreditch neighborhood and witnessing a crazy scene of a woman running back and forth across a busy street, trying to fight two men with a baby in her arms… it’s good to know that dialing ‘9-1-1’ works anywhere thanks to the influence of American culture!
-Spending my last night in Europe with Connor… we had a beer a Waxy O’Connor’s (another fun theme bar), walked around the Theater district of Soho (which reminds me of Times Square), watched the street performers and ate dinner at Jamie Oliver’s diner (my food crush since 2001)

Food Highlights:
-Angel cooking British classics she learned from her mother in law including bangers and mash, English breakfast and scones with clotted milk and black currant jam
toffee crisp chocolate bar, England has some tasty candy
Shepard’s Pie with sweet potatoes and lentils
-the most delicious chicken shawarma wrap
Indian food takeout (so good) during a Disney movie night… London really is amazing for all cuisines
my last meal in Europe: bangers and mash with a proper pint at the airport

Language Highlights:
-making out: snogging
-crosswalk: zeh-bra crossing
-ping pong: whiff waff
-that’s crazy: that’s mental!
-the story behind the expression ‘a stiff drink’ involving a dead admiral in a brandy barrel and some thirsty sailors

AIRPORTS: 24
FLIGHTS: 22
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 15
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 154
CURRENCIES: 7

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

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Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

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Berlin, it’s been real.

Berlin is the first time I’ve been truly ‘alone’ on this trip (alone in the sense of not staying with friends in the places I’ve visited). I had my first couch surfing experience with a couple named Jan and Melli. I was a bit nervous at first – we grow up in such a culture of fear in the States but the more I travel, the more I am trusting my instincts and the good in other people. I don’t feel alone at all, but rather a part of something bigger than myself.

5 Days in Berlin:
-Being given ‘house shoes’ by Jan, this seems to be a very common thing in Germany
-Babies, left in carriages outside while the parents run in to grab a pastry or complete an errand… while this is normal here, I joked that there was an American on the lose with a ticking biological clock!
My first night in Berlin: Jan and Melli made a pasta dinner, after which we sipped on scotch and discussed both German and American politics
Highlights from the New Europe walking tour with a Brit named Rob McCracken: Brandenburg Gate, the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from the 3rd floor window, the Reichstag government building, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, standing 4 meters above the führerbunker where Hitler and his mistress swallowed cyanide capsules, the former headquarters of the Nazi air force (one of the only buildings remaining from this era to survive the WWII bombings), the Communist propaganda mural still up from post WWII, the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the French Cathedral built in 1705 and the German Cathedral built directly across from the French Cathedral in 1708 but 1 meter taller
-Seeing a bar that’s been open for 33 years straight (literally every minute of every day)
Highlights from the 666 Anti-Pub Crawl: Yesterday bar (a super tacky retro bar right up my ally), Absinthe bar (my first ’real’ absinthe shots), Dr. Pong (where I ended up in an around the world table tennis tournament), a dance club (with music dating to the early Now CDs) – I met some fun pre-med students studying in Copenhagen and got to use my Portuguese with some Brazilians. I didn’t get home until 6:30am and needless to say, I did not make it to my 8am tour of the Reichstag the following morning.
Highlights from Alternative Berlin’s Culture walking tour: Riding and walking for 5 hours through the neighborhoods of Prenzlauerberg, Mitte, Friedrichshain & Kreuzberg – learning of the rich, diverse and ever changing art and music culture in Berlin throughout these major historical moments.
Strolling Alexanderplatz: stopping in at TKMaxx (ahem.. TJMaxx) to buy a warmer under layer and gloves because I did not anticipate how bitter the cold would be
Touring of Reichstag dome (luckily being able to reschedule!): a free tour with beautiful views of Berlin
Strolling the East Side Gallery of the Berlin wall with a coffee in hand: I spotted a Cancer Carl tag, a street artist from Oakland, CA
-Taking a bike ride with Jan to the market to grab groceries for breakfast on my last day, seeing an outdoor petting zoo on the way back in Mauer Park
-Sitting around with Jan and Melli on my last morning with full bellies and sharing stories
-Walking through a memorial to the victims that tried to cross the Berlin Wall with Jan & Melli, talking about the impact of events and war for our families and friends in the history of both Germany and America (then getting hailed on during the walk home)

Language Highlights:
-Tschüss! (pronounced like “OMG choos”)

Food Highlights:
-Currywurst
-Pizza pretzels
-Doner Kebab

Documentaries I need to check out:
-Rabbit a la Berlin
-Swing Kids
-Berlin Kids

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 88
CURRENCIES: 3

(side note: if you ever travel to Berlin – make sure to ‘validate’ your ticket in separate machine, I had a close call because I didn’t realize purchasing a ticket wasn’t the same as having a valid ticket! The train and bus system is generally very easy to get around on but I recommend getting a valid pass for the amount of time you’ll be traveling, it’s just easier!)

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More meat. More beer. Frankfurt. Germany.

It was a brief but beautiful three days in Frankfurt, Germany. A childhood friend now lives there with her husband and I couldn’t come all this way without seeing her!

It’s been twelve years since I last saw Chelsea but it was like no time had passed. We crammed in some sight seeing amongst the catching up. I ate the best food and drank the best cocktails I’ve had on this trip this far.

I can’t help but feel so grateful for the strong, amazing women in my life. And for the friends who orbit around, sometimes gravitating closer and others far out on the rings but always a part of my universe. I am surrounded by incredible, inspiring and bold people.

Highlights from Frankfurt:
-Hours of girl talk on the couch
-The best meal I’ve had: chillischnitzel
-Walking around Frankfurt
-Boat tour of the Mein river and buildings in Frankfurt
-The loves of 90’s music everywhere, I felt right at home
-The most delicious, creative and entertaining cocktails I’ve ever had: it is seriously worth going to Frankfurt just to drink at the Bristol Bar

Language highlights:
-willage (Germans have a hard time with those v’s)
-wodka

Food highlights:
-Chillischnitzel
-Honey waffles with raspberry sauce
-Braised brisket with canoodle (sp?) & red sauerkraut
-Cheesy pretzels
-Whiskey sour with peanut butter, yogurt & topped with apple juice whipped cream
-Burnt scotch with honey & mint: Sebastian went back and forth pouring between beakers with the liquor on fire… I named it the ‘Stop. Drop. And roll.

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 84
CURRENCIES: 3

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Back on track!

I am very grateful for the kind words and resources that have been sent my way since my little meltdown. I am feeling rejuvenated and refocused. I have been a busy little bee the past two days and booked all my travel and accommodations through March 22nd. My friend Jon is meeting me in Rome on March 13th, I am so grateful that I will have a piece of home here and to have someone to indulge with! I’m not sure that I would have taken such a vacation without him. It’s given me a little guiding light through the next few weeks. It’ll be a quick but amazing week – Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice!

These are my plans from now until March 22nd, any recommendations on what to see and do in these places would be greatly appreciated!

2/27 train from Augsburg and to Frankfurt – visiting a childhood friend from Connecticut that now lives there
3/1 bus to Berlin
3/5 bus to Warsaw – I will visit a mural that my best friend spent 3 summers working on that now hangs in the new Jewish museum
3/7 bus to Krakow
3/8 day trip to Auschwitz and the salt mines
3/9 train to Prague
3/13 flight to Rome
3/13 – 3/22 vacation in Italy with Jon!

Would you like a Vegemite sandwich?

Australia was a wonderful transition into international waters. I spent two and a half weeks with a close friend and her family. It was the perfect balance between being somewhere completely new and also having that sense of home. It’s amazing how quickly you can grow a community… Granted, I’ve never been very good at farewells but it seemed especially difficult to leave Sydney. The lifestyle… the people… the weather… everything was beautiful. There was a sense of belonging, of familiarity in Sydney. Perhaps it’s because there were many elements that are so similar to San Francisco.

Nicola and I were able to get ourselves into many shenanigans. Sleep was lacking but fun was plentiful. There were many late night chats and early morning coffees. I’d say I was able to balance work and play better than expected. I was also able to meet others who have traveled Europe, listen to their experiences and suggestions to help in planning my three month endeavor. I’m still in awe that I am even on this trip… that I am seeing the places I’ve drooled over on travel shows… that I am meeting amazing, inspiring people all over the world… that this is my life. The gratitude I feel is overwhelming.

I’m currently on the plane to Germany. Well, one of the three planes I’ll be on with a stopover in Singapore and a 7 hour layover in London. It’s going to be a long 30+ hours but I’m equipped with an amazing playlist, yummy Aussie snacks, a journal and some good movies. I can’t even imagine what to expect next.

Highlights from down under:
in Sydney…
-Creative fitness: hikes, playground circuits, picnic table sets, beach yoga
-70% of the way there themed tiki bar in Manly with ‘moist’ cocktails
-the ferry ride to the city, watching the sunset over the hillside houses
-wine on the beach in Manly with Nicola’s friends who adopted me for the evening
-‘Under the sea‘ house party
-feeding a giraffe at the zoo
-ladies night in with wine and cheese
-ducking huge spiderwebs and posting them to horrify Katrina
-the sounds of the birds in the trees (insanely loud and sometimes terrifying)
-the laugh of the kookaburra
-skinny dipping in the ocean pool
-kayaking the Narrabean river
-Open Air Cinema at the beach in Bondi
-cliff walk in Bondi
-salsa dancing
-hidden alley way bars with awesome themes
-karaoke until 5a-learning the proper way to order a whiskey and ginger without getting served scotch (a bourbon and dry, please!)
-Maker’s Mark as the well whiskey and $8.50 Pacificos… really??
-a proper send off of beer steins on the ocean in Manly
in Melbourne…
-eating Aussie junk food while watching ‘Priscilla, Queen of the Desert
-the most elaborate tiki bar, minesweeping pina coladas and dancing to 50’s cruising beach music… far out
-dancing to Beyonce on the streets at 3am
Galentine’s day with Nicola: walking around the side streets, eating teeny cupcakes, fireworks over the river
-drinking a VB and watching cricket for the first time
-failing at an attempt to both throw a cricket ball and learn the rules of the game (I call it baseball’s eccentric aunt)
-deliciously intricate milkshakes at a total dive pool hall

Food Highlights:
-vegemite (it’s ‘interesting’)
-banoffie (banana and toffee) pie
-Tim Tams (in every flavor)
-meat from Upper Crust
-chicken burgers
-flat whites
-pizza shapes
-bacon and cheddar cheese balls

-haloumi cheese
-VB
-‘Macca’s’ (McDonald’s)

Language Highlights:
‘maisel: may as well
-‘straya: Australia
-cunt
-I reckon
-coriander (cilantro)
-capsium (bell peppers)
-mate
-g’day

AIRPORTS: 11
FLIGHTS:
11
STATES:
7
COUNTRIES:
2
CONTINENTS:
3
DAYS TRAVELING:
71

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Cold toes, warm heart

Cold toes, warm heart

It has been 3 1/2 of braving frigid temperatures while creating warm memories. This is the third time I’ve visited my home state of Connecticut since I moved to San Francisco over 3 years ago. It is the first time … Continue reading

Confessions of an over packer

I tend to be an over packer. I like to bring every amenity I might like to use while traveling and an outfit for every occasion. I left San Francisco with a giant red suitcase almost at weight capacity, a stuffed 45 liter pack and a backpack. Determined to be able to truthfully state that I ‘backpacked through Europe’ I had to figure out a way to downsize my life and my work (mobile office) into 2 carry-ons. Oy! I began by placing everything I wanted to take on the bed and what I knew could be left behind in the red suitcase at my mom’s house. I painstakingly mulled over the pile a few times… making several passes at what was strewn before me… hmming and hawing then bringing in a good friend for a second opinion to really draw the line between was wanted and what was neededThe main criteria was for each item to have a multipurpose or be super necessary. I packed my life into my 45 liter pack from Costco and my work into a school size back pack. Surprisingly, only each pack is 1/2 full which leaves plenty of room for the trinkets and presents I’ll pick up along the way. Not bad at all for an over-packer (and over-thinker!)!

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots (for daily wear)
-1 pair of sneakers (for exercise & walking around)
-1 pair of black flip flops (for dresses, warmer weather & showers)
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy)
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans
-1 pair of jeggings (for traveling + sleeping)
-1 pair of shorts (for hot weather or running)
-1 pair of capri pants (for running or sleeping)
-1 fancy tank top
-2 tanks tops / under shirts
-1 long sleeve shirt
-2 blouses (for evening)
-3 cotton blouses (for day)
-2 cotton t-shirts (for relaxing, sleeping or exercising)
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel (for the beach and showering)
-21 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headbands, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry

in backpack (also to use in smaller day trips while traveling):
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet)
-computer + charger
-iPad
-phone + charger
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack (to make touring easier)
-leather journal
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard
-watercolor travel kit
-1 reusable plastic water bottle

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Working in the future

Many people are curious as to how I can afford 6 months of traveling. The truth is… I can’t. BUT I am fortunate to work for a company that is ‘cloud based’, meaning I can technically work from anywhere so long as I have internet access. We have no central office, but the majority of my co-workers are based in the Bay Area. So, I will be working while I am traveling. Luckily, I am a bit of a work-a-holic and haven’t taken a full vacation in almost two years so I have about a month of time saved up. I will only be staying in hostels or places that have WiFi and will be taking long weekends or early days here and there (definitely planning to take a week off in Italy!). I had to create a REALLY thorough travel plan (a google doc actually, being the OCD Virgo that I am) detailing timezones and schedules to ensure I am as available as possible to my co-workers and clients in Pacific time. Even though Australia is almost a full day ahead, I’ll actually be able to work a somewhat normal schedule there (8am – 5pm). I had to take a vacation day on every Friday that I am ‘down under’ since Friday in California would actually be Saturday in Australia (and “I don’t roll on Shabbos!”). Europe will prove to be a bit more difficult as it’s 8-9 hours ahead depending on the country. This means I’ll need to work from 1pm to 10pm. On the bright side, I will have the morning free and I know most of the nightlife doesn’t begin until late anyway.

I’ll be honest, it’s a difficult mindset to be working in a separate timezone. Since December 7th, I’ve been working in the Eastern time and just the three hour difference has proven interesting! I’ve worked late nights before, but doing so on a consistent basis so that I am available in the Pacific work day is going to certainly require some shifting in my brain and routine. I’m grateful to have co-workers who have not only been supportive and encouraging but are also being flexible in their schedules so that I won’t have to attend any 4am conference calls!  It will probably be the craziest four months of my life (and most of the time I will probably forget where I am in time and space), but I already know it will be worth the hectic and sometimes maddening moments or exhausting days!

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Activating the Law of Attraction

“The law of attraction is simple – whatever you project energetically or put your energy towards whether that be positive or negative you will attract. What you project is what you receive. A vision board is simply to help set our intentions for the way we want to live, and for our brains to pick up on that and make it happen. The vision board therefore, is to help our brains recognize what it is we want to make true in our lives. It helps us unconsciously move towards our dreams in a very real and powerful way.  The purpose of a vision board is to realize your future, and to activate the law of attraction and move from day dreaming to living your dreams.”

-Mary Crimmins, Fellow Blogger

I created my ‘vision board‘ in the same week that I started this blog. Ironically enough, I did not set out to do so. I thought it would be a good idea to print out maps to get a sense of not only where I would like to go but where I thought my social network could come in handy. I highlighted where I had been and outlined where I would like to go. I started creating pinpoints in places where I had people I could stay with or where I knew friends had traveled and could offer advice. A cork board that my roommate had given me seemed the best place to tack these maps on – and voilà – my vision board was created!

I stare at it several times a day with excitement and a tinge of anxiety. I’m setting forth my intentions into the world and here is where you all (all of the extraordinary people I’ve been blessed with in my life) come in. Send me your stories and advice! Where have you traveled? Where would you like to go? What must I absolutely see or do? Do you have advice on hostels or know of a couch I can crash on? Do you know of any good websites or travel options to help with planning? Anything! I’m seeking to pick the brains and generosity of all of my connections and their connections and their connections…. You get the idea. So comment on my blog or page… send an email or a facebook message… text or call me… send a note via carrier pigeon – whatever you prefer!

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“Don’t think about what you want to be, but do what you want to do.”

It has only been a week since the launching of my blog, but it certainly feels longer. Thank you to my friends and family for the kind words and overwhelming show of support – 88 followers!

My inspiration this week comes from an old friend, Everett, who shared the quote below on my Facebook wall. It could not be more poignant. It is true that we will never be able to figure it all out… we are barreling through space and time – everything around us is changing – we as humans are changing everyday… physically, emotionally, spiritually… in what we need and what we desire. Trying to analyze what is fleeting is not a good use of time or energy – instead let us truly exist in each moment, appreciate it as it is happening and be ready to roll along with the next one in this constantly shifting world. Let us not be afraid to see the beauty that exists in all of our interactions, let’s pay attention to the stories and lessons that lie within them.

“Don’t think about what you want to be, but do what you want to do.” By following your passion and doing what makes you happy, you will only naturally become the person you’ve always wanted to be.

And the best lesson I learned this week? Inspiration has a unique affect – the more that you are inspired, the more you become an inspiration to others. With all of the negativity, sadness and injustice in this world, it is important to focus in on and share this light as much as possible. SHARE YOUR LIGHT! Be vulnerable – don’t be afraid to share your dreams and your fears. Be willing to talk about them with anyone that you encounter – friends and strangers. Be receptive in allowing other people to share theirs with you. It’s not easy for me to be so open, but this past week has proven to me how imperative it really is. My fire has only been fueled by talking about it all week. Can someone please cue ‘This Little Light of Mine‘? Cause I’m going to let it shine… Let it shineeeeee, let it shine, let it shineeee!

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“Life isn’t about finding yourself, life is about creating yourself.”

My uncle gave me a card with this quote on it when I moved to California in May of 2011. Some things you hear and think you understand until the day that it really clicks and the meaning changes entirely. … Continue reading