The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by.”

I am in tears over this piece my best friend sent to me today. Since returning, I have been having such a difficult time trying to put into words my experiences while traveling alone abroad for four months. It’s almost like I can’t acknowledge that it even happened because I don’t know what to make of it…. yet. Jed Jenkins so eloquently put into words why I began this journey, maybe it will help me to find my own words to describe what I have learned as a result of it.

“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by… I want to be aware of every day I’m alive and I want to make it to 85 and be exhausted because I have been alive and awake every single day… It’s about getting out of your routine and that could look like anything… And that’s why I’m doing this bike trip because I don’t want my days to control me… I want to control my days… I want to choose a mind and a soul that’s wide awake… It turns your 100 years on this planet into a thousand.”

See the video here: https://vimeo.com/120206922

London: The Final Countdown (da da ding ding ding)

Throughout four months of travel, I have been able to update my blog within two days of leaving a city even while working, enjoying the new destination and planning for the next. However, I’ve been back in Connecticut for almost three weeks and have been dragging my feet to write my ‘last’ blog post. Perhaps I was concerned that penning this entry would really cement that the trip is over?

It was a beautiful time to be in London… I was blessed with more perfect weather and everything seemed to fall right into place. Literally everything.

It was the perfect last stop as so many things came full circle and I got to meet up with many people I knew from home or traveling. It was a good ease back into not being alone anymore: I caught up with Ellie who I met at a bar in Venice in March… Tim who I met on a walking tour in Barcelona in April… Claire, another of my colleagues from my remote company… Connor, Jon’s co-worker and a good friend of ours who happens to be working in London for a few months…my favorite kiwi, Dean who I’d met in San Francisco when I first moved there 4 years ago… Angel, who I worked with at Outback Steakhouse ten years ago… and the stars aligned for Nicola and I to be together again in the last days of my trip which could not have been more poetic since I began this journey with her in Australia 4 months prior.

Angel and her husband, Andrew were incredible hosts. I barely knew Angel outside of work but always felt a strong connection with her. Catching up after a decade demonstrated that my intuition is usually correct. We had such a wonderful time chatting and laughing as if we’d grown up together and never spent a day apart. The irony of watching my former Outback co-worker get along so well with my Australian friend was not lost on me and was too heart-warming to put into words (but don’t worry, we have the pictures that are worth thousands of ‘em).

I think it will be awhile before I can really reflect on these four months as a whole. At the moment, it seems like a hazy dream…. something that happened to someone else in a different life. I’m home and it feels as if nothing AND everything has changed.

Moments in London:
-Staying with Angel and her husband, Andrew, in the apartments originally built for the athletes of the 2012 Olympics – London is setting a great example of what sustainability and community improvement for host countries can be like
-Walking along the Thames River with Connor to see the London Eye, Big Ben, Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Sky Garden and the Tower of London… we enjoyed a beer by the water then had lunch (where I was ID’ed to prove I was of legal drinking age which is 18 – score!) before I had to start work
-Surviving the central line, or Satan’s Asshole, as Andrew so aptly calls it for it’s depth under ground, horrendous, screeching sounds, packed cars and muggy heat
-After running up over 200 stairs and about a mile to the meeting location, Angel and I barely made it to Covent Garden in time for the walking tour to meet up with Tim
Highlights from Sandeman’s New Europe Walking Tour: Buckingham Palace (including the changing of the guards), Churchill’s War Cabinet Bunker, The House of Parliament, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the Palace of Westminster and St. James’s Park where I saw a black swan (I never knew they really existed)!
-I learned what ‘hay fever‘ is by experiencing it’s madness with the blooming trees of London and the tiny, sharp pollen prickers that try to blind you (OUCH!)
-Meeting Claire and having just as much fun in person as we do on conference lines… we got coffee and walked through the Victorian Park
-Meeting Ellie for ‘a drink’ which turned into two bottles of wine over girl talk and a Coors while waiting for the train home
-Hanging out in the super hip Camden district with Angel and Nicola where we flipped through the racks of vintage clothing of the Stable Markets, checked out the Rave / Kink clothing in Cyderdog and dressed to the nines as Victorian badasses for old time-y photos (where we were a major, but entertaining pain in the ass)… we spent the entire afternoon shopping and giggling like we were in a 90’s montage
-Dean led the ladies on a long walk to the Camden Town Brewery for some fucking delicious brews, gave us the real science behind the ‘lock system’ for boat passage and then took us to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese (the oldest pub in London where we attempted to list all 50 states then had a TMI conversation with the last stragglers in the bar before closing)
-Buying matching Paddington Bear pajamas after walking around the mall with Nicola (I wish we had PriMark and especially Tiger in the States) then strolling through Hackney Wick, East London and the Ridley Road Market stopping for ciders and beers in each neighborhood
-Walking toward the Shoreditch neighborhood and witnessing a crazy scene of a woman running back and forth across a busy street, trying to fight two men with a baby in her arms… it’s good to know that dialing ‘9-1-1’ works anywhere thanks to the influence of American culture!
-Spending my last night in Europe with Connor… we had a beer a Waxy O’Connor’s (another fun theme bar), walked around the Theater district of Soho (which reminds me of Times Square), watched the street performers and ate dinner at Jamie Oliver’s diner (my food crush since 2001)

Food Highlights:
-Angel cooking British classics she learned from her mother in law including bangers and mash, English breakfast and scones with clotted milk and black currant jam
toffee crisp chocolate bar, England has some tasty candy
Shepard’s Pie with sweet potatoes and lentils
-the most delicious chicken shawarma wrap
Indian food takeout (so good) during a Disney movie night… London really is amazing for all cuisines
my last meal in Europe: bangers and mash with a proper pint at the airport

Language Highlights:
-making out: snogging
-crosswalk: zeh-bra crossing
-ping pong: whiff waff
-that’s crazy: that’s mental!
-the story behind the expression ‘a stiff drink’ involving a dead admiral in a brandy barrel and some thirsty sailors

AIRPORTS: 24
FLIGHTS: 22
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 15
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 154
CURRENCIES: 7

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Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

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Quickie in Kraków

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe –  thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

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Working in the future

Many people are curious as to how I can afford 6 months of traveling. The truth is… I can’t. BUT I am fortunate to work for a company that is ‘cloud based’, meaning I can technically work from anywhere so long as I have internet access. We have no central office, but the majority of my co-workers are based in the Bay Area. So, I will be working while I am traveling. Luckily, I am a bit of a work-a-holic and haven’t taken a full vacation in almost two years so I have about a month of time saved up. I will only be staying in hostels or places that have WiFi and will be taking long weekends or early days here and there (definitely planning to take a week off in Italy!). I had to create a REALLY thorough travel plan (a google doc actually, being the OCD Virgo that I am) detailing timezones and schedules to ensure I am as available as possible to my co-workers and clients in Pacific time. Even though Australia is almost a full day ahead, I’ll actually be able to work a somewhat normal schedule there (8am – 5pm). I had to take a vacation day on every Friday that I am ‘down under’ since Friday in California would actually be Saturday in Australia (and “I don’t roll on Shabbos!”). Europe will prove to be a bit more difficult as it’s 8-9 hours ahead depending on the country. This means I’ll need to work from 1pm to 10pm. On the bright side, I will have the morning free and I know most of the nightlife doesn’t begin until late anyway.

I’ll be honest, it’s a difficult mindset to be working in a separate timezone. Since December 7th, I’ve been working in the Eastern time and just the three hour difference has proven interesting! I’ve worked late nights before, but doing so on a consistent basis so that I am available in the Pacific work day is going to certainly require some shifting in my brain and routine. I’m grateful to have co-workers who have not only been supportive and encouraging but are also being flexible in their schedules so that I won’t have to attend any 4am conference calls!  It will probably be the craziest four months of my life (and most of the time I will probably forget where I am in time and space), but I already know it will be worth the hectic and sometimes maddening moments or exhausting days!

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24 hours of love

It has only been 24 hours since I launched my blog and Facebook page and I am already in awe. I am grateful every day, every moment for the support of the truly amazing people in my life. I’m beyond excited to see where this all takes me and I cannot thank you all enough for your love, kinds words and encouragement.

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