The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Czech Me Out

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and opentough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 eachseriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

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Quickie in Kraków

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe –  thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

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Sometimes, you just have to say “fuck it”

When you’ve dreamt of something for as long as you can remember and you’re teetering on the edge of big life decisions… sometimes the best solution is to slug back a few glasses of wine and say “fuck it”. That’s what I did last Tuesday evening when I charged airplane tickets to my credit card for 2 months of visiting family and friends along the east coast, 3 weeks in Australia and 3 months in Europe!

As said best in Billy Joel’s ‘Vienna’ (a longtime inspiration of mine) – “You can get what you want, or you can just get old.”  I’ve learned that time is the most precious resource I haveboth abundant and limited in the same regard – I’m thrilled to be taking full advantage of mine. And while it’s one of the crazier moves I’ve ever made, it feels right like the right time to take the right risk.

And hey – some of the best decisions I’ve made have been while intoxicated, so let’s hope this one follows suits (I mean, that one way ticket to San Francisco turned out to be the greatest choice ever, right??). Drunken courage surely takes action for the sober heart! 

I’ll spend the next two months packing up a storage unit (sadly giving up a great apartment), figuring out what to do with my car and sorting out the hundreds of little details to leave my life in San Francisco not knowing where I’ll be when I return in June. I’m lucky and grateful to have a remote job so I will be able to continue working during this time and will also be tapping into my abundant bank of vacation hours (cheers to being a workaholic and having that shit saved up).

I’m also beyond grateful that I will be spending long overdue time with family and friends all over the world and very excited for the new connections I will make! I’m already overwhelmed with the love, support and offers that have come in within a week of making this decision – I’ll keep everyone posted throughout this process and of course when the traveling starts. Cheers to adventure and bold decisions!

Flight itinerary:

12/7 San Francisco –> Maryland to visit Kaley and my nieces
12/14 Maryland –> Florida to visit my grandparents and Ashley for Christmas
12/28 Florida –> Detroit to get a New Years kiss from Jon
1/4 Detroit –> Connecticut to visit friend and family for 3 weeks (hoping to make it up to Rhode Island to visit Josh’s restaurant in Newport and reunite with friends in Providence after 4 years of being gone)
1/27 Connecticut –> Australia for 3 weeks of adventure with Nicola!
2/16 Australia –> Germany to begin 3 months of European travels!
5/9 London –> Connecticut for a few weeks before returning to California

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