The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Lisbon: beautiful melancholy

Lisbon is indescribably beautiful the foliage, the architecture, the people, the water, the parks, the culture.

Portugal was not originally on my traveling list, but my couch surfing host (and now good friend) in Poland, Goska, insisted I must see Lisbon. Two of her friends, Jorge and Carla, took me in without hesitation… even taking time off work in the 5 days I was here to show me around.

They knew my work schedule and created an itinerary so that each day I could see the best parts of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. It was such a relief to have a break in planning and decision making! I am in such awe at the overwhelming kindness and generosity of ‘strangers’ I have experienced on this trip.

I’m going to call Lisbon the sister city of San Francisco. They have two bridges into the city just like SF which even look like the Golden Gate and the Bay Bridge. They have big hills and cable cars, which I rode for the first time (never did that in 4 years of living in SF!). Being close to the ‘end’ of this journey, with my heart longing for SF, it was nice to feel so close to home even far away.

On my first evening, I experienced fado over dinner and drinks with Carla, Jorge and two of their friends.

“Fado is a music genre which can be traced to the 1820s in Portugal, but probably with much earlier origins… fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia. This is loosely captured by the Portuguese word saudade, or ‘longing’, symbolizing a feeling of loss (a permanent, irreparable loss and its consequent lifelong damage). “ “Whatever its origins its themes have remained constant: destiny, betrayal in love, death and despair. A typical lyric goes: ‘Why did you leave me, where did you go? I walk the streets looking at every place we were together, except you’re not there.’”

To see men and women walking in from the street (or even from the kitchen as two cooks did) to sing songs of pain and loss… to hear the genuine sorrow as they sang… it was moving and beautiful. It’s not often that the sadness in life is given such a public place. As my friend Niki put it, “It is also part of the Portuguese culture to speak of the good with the bad rather than the rose colored version of life americans share… beautiful.”

In Lisbon, I was able to embrace my own sadness in a different way. There is a constant ache in my chest, my heart more confused than ever… I continue to battle with the sadness and longing… torturing myself with the playback of events and analyzation of the people we became at the end of our relationship, of the hurt we have caused each other. I know I have to let go (at least of the control in having to know what the future holds) but I’m incapable of existing in the unknown. Lisbon taught me that I can create it a space for it in my life, without letting it consume me.

Moments in Lisbon:
-fado and dinner at Taberna A Baiuca Alfama which ended with the entire restaurant breaking into dance for last song
-the gorgeous stone design on the streets all over Lisbon but especially Rossio Square
-the Cais das Colunas representing where the ships would dock
-seeing a smaller version of the Christ in Rio (a gift from Brazil to Portugal), remembering the fun time I had climbing to the top with my best girls
-the train ride to Cascais (it’s listed as top 10 most beautiful in Europe)
Cascais: the beach, the harbor and the Boca do Inferno (mouth of hell) chasm in the cliffs there
-The president’s ‘pink’house and the garden in front of it
-a huge monastery from 13th century
Belem Tower: “the last landmark explorers saw as they sailed out of Lisbon to ‘discover’ unknown parts of the world”
-the war memorial with an eternal flame and soldiers marching and saluting
-visiting the midevil town of Sintra where the flowers were in full bloom and you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time
-exploring the massive area of La Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra… we saw a waterfall, a grotto, a park, a mansion, a tower, a small church, a deep well, the fountain of abundance… we walked through dark tunnels and saw flowers I’ve never seen including so much wild lilac which I could not stop breathing in
-laughing at a police dog training in the park who had no interest in doing as he was supposed to
-taking a ride on the sky tram (which they call a cable car here) with Carla
-walking an avenue of monuments (so many more beautiful statues of strong women) with Jorge on my last day and finding the perfect dress for the Moulin Rouge on Saturday for only 18 euro (after hunting 3 malls and 2 shopping strips in 2 countries)!
-luckily missing (again) a train strike right before I came and another starting the day I left (I took a cab because of the early departure time)
-The security at the Lisbon airport tore through every inch of my tightly packed luggage (due to very strict Ryanair policies on size), I then had to argue with them to not take away the small lotion container I’ve traveled through 17 airports with (which they did anyway)… Apparently my sensual amber scent is a threat to national security. I later realized my fly was down the whole time. And my fly was down the whole time, which I only now realized. I bargained with him to let me empty the lotion into one of their plastic bags (which looks disgusting by the way). I then asked for my empty container back since it was now just an empty container. He said I was a ‘tricky girl‘ and wouldn’t give it to me… I’d still like to think I won this battle.

Food highlights:
porto as an apertiff
despite an extreme distaste for seafood, I ate octopus and tuna
-with the Brazilian influence in Lisbon, I was able to enjoy some of my favorite treats: coxinha, pao de quiejo, brigadeiro and gaurana
Pastéis de Belém: small custard pastries that have been made the same way in this restaurant since 1837
queijada and travesseiro pastries in Sintra
ginja, sour cherry liquor in a chocolate cup / shot that you ate afterward
-a deliciously typical Portuguese dinner with meats I could not distinguish and didn’t want to attempt to (despite some not so pleasant company)
flank steak topped with a sunny side up egg… I’ll be using this recipe when I get back!

Languages highlights:

Saudade: “It describes a deep emotional state of nostalgic or profound melancholic longing for an absent something or someone that one loves. Moreover, it often carries a repressed knowledge that the object of longing may never return. Saudade was once described as “the love that remains” after someone is gone. Saudade is the recollection of feelings, experiences, places or events that once brought excitement, pleasure, well-being, which now triggers the senses and makes one live again. It can be described as an emptiness, like someone (e.g., one’s children, parents, sibling, grandparents, friends, pets) or something (e.g., places, things one used to do in childhood, or other activities performed in the past) that should be there in a particular moment is missing, and the individual feels this absence. It brings sad and happy feelings all together, sadness for missing and happiness for having experienced the feeling.”

AIRPORTS: 17
FLIGHTS: 17
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 8
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 131
CURRENCIES: 5

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Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

The best part of traveling alone is that you can decide how “lonely” that can be. I get to choose when I feel like being alone (without hurting anyone’s feelings) and can easily make new friends when I need company.

I had a week in Barcelona to have the space I needed for thinking and the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people when I wanted to be. I enjoyed the ‘tourist’ attractions earlier in the week but by the end, I simply enjoyed ‘living’ in Barcelona. I think that’s the best part of traveling, when you just feel at home wherever you are.

On my last day in Barcelona, I actually had to spend a few hours re-uploading all the pictures in this blog dating back to when it was created two years ago (I made in error in thinking I could delete the archive on WordPress). There was actually something quite beautiful in having to go back to the beginning and reading my thought process before this journey. Nearing the end of this trip, I can’t imagine that it could have been more perfect to be almost forced into reviewing where I started from. I remembered the choice I made to be happy… The choice I made to begin this adventure… I remembered that you do choose in life… even if your only choice is a matter of perception in your reality.

Moments in Barcelona:
-I got very lucky with a beautiful apartment and a kind couchsurfing host… I met my Ray (a 44 year old Frenchman) at the bar he was at with friends to get the keys before heading to the apartment… I did not expect to open the door to a four story house with marble floors, an elevator, a huge patio, a rooftop terrace with beautiful views of the city, a sauna and a maid
-meeting Jan (from Barcelona), Sully (from Boston) and Anny (from Colombia) through couchsurfing… Jan picked us up and took us to Magic, a classic rock bar where we enjoyed tequila sunrises and chatted until very late in the evening… I even ran into another guy that I had chatted with on the site when I was looking for a host (small world as always)
-being a bit sad to be missing Easter traditions with my friends in San Francisco, I had a lovely solo brunch of albondigas con juevos y una cerveza (Spanish meatballs with eggs and a beer)
-after an unsuccessful attempt to meet up with Sully and Anny, I strolled the enormous and beautiful Parc Güell by myself on Easter Sunday… touring Antoni Gaudi’s house and finding Los Sobrino, a string quartet, playing a cover of ‘Firework’ by Katy Perry (I was actually so impressed that I bought their CD)
-catching up with the ladies for tapas and hilarious conversation that I didn’t quite understand but caught the gist of with the waiters
-breathing the fresh Mediterranean Sea air at the beach (even if it was slightly chilly)
Sangria on the beach followed by a dinner of tasty tapas with my new friends
El Bosc de Les Fades: a very well decorated fairy tthemed bar that makes you feel like you are in the forest
-meeting up with Sully at the Plaza Espanya and walking around the National Art Museum of Catalonia, an incredible building with enormous fountains
-having lunch on top of the old bullfighting arena which is now a mall (bullfighting is illegal in Barcelona)
-highlights from Sandemann’s NewEurope walking tour: learning the history of Barcelona and Catalonia and the reason behind their quest for independence from Spain, walking through the beautiful plazas, the structure  dedicated to the Castilleres who climb on each other’s shoulders to reach great heights, Gaudi’s fountain, the Arc del Triomf, a dash of Picasso art and the beautiful mosaics of brightly colored Spanish tiles
-lunch and chit chat with my new friends from the tour: Jess from France, Q from New York and Tim from Australia
-highlights from the Sandemann’s NewEurope Gaudi and Moderisme tour: learning of Gaudi’s life, the tiles lining Passeig de Gràcia from Gaudi’s design, houses from the Modernsime era (and the funny stories behind some of the decor), Gaudi’s Casa Battló (telling the story of Saint Jordi’s battle with the dragon to save the virgin princess), Gaudi’s Casa Milà (the last private house he worked on, a huge inspiration for George Lucas creating Star Wars) and more
-touring the inside of La Sagrada Família… it began construction in 1882 and is still a work in progress, Gaudi began his life’s work when he was 31 years old and worked on it until his tragic death 43 years later… this church is the definition of ‘epic’, every inch of it is grand and has meaning behind it… the way the light floods in is breathtaking, I look forward to visiting in 20 or so years when it’s completed
appreciating the symbolism and beauty in architecture in a way that I honestly never did before
-seeing more 23’s 🙂
-the beautiful view of the city and the construction on La Sagrada Família from the passion facade tower
-hunting for a perfect dress for my Moulin Rouge evening in Paris in a really alternative and funky neighborhood that I couldn’t figure out the name of… there were great vintage stores and awesome record shops
-getting a permanent souvenir from this trip, a beautiful peacock feather from Chiara Pina at LTW Tattoo (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me – I’ll post about this later)
-window shopping along La Rambla and in the windy streets along the edges of this area
-finding the St. Joseph Mercat – La Bouqueria, an amazing farmer’s market
-having a few beers and discussing the key to happiness with Jan at an Irish bar (Michael Collins) that had a great 90’s cover band

Food highlights:
-potato and beef stew at El Pollo Rico, a recommendation from Josh
-so many empanadas, some traditional and some unique
-bread with garlic and smushed tomato (very common in Barcelona, simple but tasty)
murros: fried pig nose (basically like pork grinds)
-deep fried cream cheese balls at Burger King (it was the only place open at 2am and I totally don’t regret it)

Language highlights:
guapo / guapa: this word is thrown around a lot, it basically meaning handsome / pretty and is a term of endearment
-Mexican Spanish: grassy-us … Spain Spanish: grath-ee-uh (I feel like I developed a lisp this past week)
-trying to decipher between Spanish and Catalon (the language spoken here)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 126
CURRENCIES: 5

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Holy Week in Seville

Seville was an unplanned stop in Spain for me but I was told I just had to come down here for the processions during Holy Week (Semana Santa) in the days leading up to Easter Sunday.

So I sandwiched a few days in between Madrid and Barcelona to take the train down to Seville. I had never heard of the processions and had no idea what to expect, or how difficult it would be to find accommodations!

Luckily Rob accepted my couch surfing request for three nights and four days. A 28 year old from Miami based with the Air Force an hour outside of Seville, we hit it off instantly and didn’t shut up the entire time. What is this feeling of such familiarity and comfort with all the people I am meeting on this journey? I cannot tell if it’s due to the overwhelming kindness I’ve experienced from strangers, my own openness or both? He was off of work for the holiday, so we spent the days exploring and the evenings celebrating – a first Semana Santa experience for both of us.

It was hot in Seville, over 100 degrees each day and in the low 70’s at night. I sent all of my summer clothing and sandals from Australia back with Jon after Italy, so I was ill prepared for that kind of heat… to say the least. There was a constant, unquenchable thirst.

I was surprised to see women in high heels and men in suits, dressed in their Easter best (literally) for each day of Semana Santa. Even more surprising, were the traditional robes and pointed hoods worn by the members of the church participating in the processions. No matter how much I saw them and understood that they are in reality not related at all, I never really got over the tinge of fear and unease of seeing these outfits knowing what they represent with the KKK in the United States.

The tradition of the garb represents penitence for their sins, to take the attention away from them and toward God. Each day there are these long processions, thousands of men and women carrying 4 foot long candles or bearing large crosses walking very slowly through the streets of Seville, many are barefoot. There are children dressed as priests and women singing sorrowful tunes accompanied by wind instruments. There are these beautiful and elaborate floats weighing close to two tons, some as old as the 16th century, that are carried by 40-50 men. Each church has their own brotherhood that marches along the small, winding streets up to the main cathedral. Over a million locals and tourists come out for these processions.

The biggest and most elaborate procession is the Thursday evening leading into the morning of Holy Friday – it doesn’t even begin until midnight and they walk for over 8 hours. To be in a crowd of thousands, all hushed… it was like nothing I have ever experienced before. Rob and I decided to leave around 5:45am… there were still hoards of people arriving and crowding around – children and elderly, party goers, families. You got this sense that they weren’t going home anytime soon. Even though I am not religious, it was beautiful to witness such tradition, passion and dedication.

Moments in Seville:
-haggling with street vendors for a new purse since mine had been completely destroyed on this trip and from the rain in Italy
-having drinks outside on a warm evening, discussing life with my couch surfing host
-seeing a live Spanish jazz band
-exploring the beauty of the Royal Alcazar gardens
-the beautiful architecture and painted tiles of Plaza Espana
-getting lost in the maze of alleys in the Santa Cruz neighborhood
-scaling a 12 foot fence into the Maria Luisa Park at 4am in search of a garden labyrinth which we never did find
-walking along the Guadalquivir River
-meeting Veronica and Marko in a shady dive bar and adoring them instantly – I will actually be staying with them when I get to Copenhagen!
-meeting a guy from Chicago and getting into a 1/2 hour long heated debate over pizza (for the record, deep dish is casserole not pizza)
-after two nights of procession celebrations and heavy drinking, enjoying a very rare night of relaxing, movies and pizza

Food highlights:
-mushroom and gorgonzola croquettes
-eating gazpacho (cold tomato soup) and albondigas (Spanish meatballs) on a rooftop terrace while drinking Sangria on a hot day

Language highlights:
-Paso: the giant float like structure (some being built as far as the 16th century) depicting Christ or the Virgin Mary, carried by 40-50 barefoot men (costaleros) depending on the weight… they march slowly through the streets for hours

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 9
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 119
CURRENCIES: 5

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One Night in Warsaw

I only spent 37 hours in Warsaw, but every moment was filled with such love and delight. There was something about this place that was instantly so familiar to me. I am on the train to Krakow now.. part of me wishing that I’d had more time in Warsaw but the other part of me knowing that it was perfect just as it was. 

I had my second couchsurfing experience with a woman named Gośka, a 23 year old medical student. I cannot explain her energy, her pure love for meeting new people and for existing in the moment. I fell in love with her instantly. She picked me up from the bus station at 6am and after a few hours of napping, we had what I can only describe as a whirlwind of powerful conversation, love and gratitude in its most genuine form
 
I initially decided to come to Poland solely to see a project my best friend, Savana, spent three summers working on – the recreation of a wooden synagogue’s structure and the murals that adorned the inside which was burned down in WWII. What I did not anticipate was that there were bigger plans for me than just a trip to the Museum of the History of Polish Jews to see this project. I was meant to meet Gośka, to have this beautiful soul in my life.
 
Gośka and I walked around for hours, talking and laughing. It felt as if we’d always known each other. That evening, we had a delicious meal and met up with her friends for drinks. The people I meet keeping asking me what I notice is different about their country compared to America. But truthfully, I don’t see many differences. Maybe it’s because I am not looking for them? Or is it because I am instead searching for what makes us similar? For the common threads of humanity that connect us?
 
On the way home, at 4am, I stopped Gośka to take a deep breath and to remember the moment we were in. I asked her if she’d ever had that feeling of ‘I am exactly where I am meant to be’ or ‘I am exactly who I am meant to be’… I said, “these are the moments in life we have to hold on to because they mean that everything up until this point… all the good things, the adventures, the tragedies, the heartbreaks… have led us here”. We stood with our feet on either side of a man hole to commemorate the moment (it seemed appropriate at the time – perhaps due to the 17 shots of vodka we consumed?). I said, “remember this very second and when things are difficult, remember that life is only preparing us for more moments like this… to appreciate how beautiful life really is.
 
The more I am grateful for these moments, the happier I become and the happier I become, the more moments like this I seem to have. It’s a blessed circle. With the strong women I am meeting and the statues on display of these warrior women I see everywhere in Europe, I feel like I am on a tour of female empowerment. I am a woman, traveling ‘alone’ but making communities in each place I visit – embracing the people and the culture in each destination. Choosing to create the life I want to lead – knowing that happiness is a conscious effort and choice
 
As my train was departing, Goska gave me a book entitled ‘Led by Destiny‘ which is the story of two American backpackers. I cannot wait to read it and to see when in life I will see my Polish sister again. The title of the book could not be more appropriate as… deep breath… I am right where and who I am meant to be… in this very moment. Without the previous moments in my life that were painful and lonely, I would not appreciate this journey so deeply. Sometimes, the only way to change your life is to change your outlook on it… this will transform everything.
 
Moments in Warsaw:
-Goska made homemade hummus and fresh orange juice for my first lunch.
Royal Lazienki Park: We walked around to see this beautiful park on a crisp day. We saw amazing sculptures and ‘the palace on the water’ but the highlight was certainly the animals. Poland has THE CUTEST squirrels I have seen. They are smaller than American squirrels and red with tufted hair on their ears. They are so friendly and adorable, I wish I could have one as a pet. Also in this park, it is common for peacocks to wander freely. We came across one who was proudly strutting his feathers, turning almost as if he were showing how handsome he was. It was one of the most majestic and wonderful moments in my life.
-Walking through Old Town with a coffee in hand, discussing life and love with Goska.
-Going from one small, cramped bar to another to take shots of flavored vodka in each. I am impressed I was alive this morning. Two of Goska’s friends joined us and we talked so freely about many topics. I’ve learned that people do not hate Americans the way we think they do but that actually it’s very common to feel like other places have bad ideas of your country. 
-Goska and I making a toast to our mothers: “to the women we swore we’d be nothing like as girls but are now proud to be like as women.”
Museum of the History of Polish Jews: I met Savana’s friend, Olga, who worked on the mural with her and two Americans visting from Paris where they study law (and I hope to see them again!). The museum just opened last year and everything about it was awe-inspringthe architecture, the exhibits, the history. There was a Purim celebration and I got prune hamentashen to celebrate. It made me happy because I love them so much as they remind me of my close friend and second mother (she makes large batches every year).
Wilanow Royal Palace: We went to see the gardens and the palace but with luck on our side, there was an amazing light display! They used 3D projectors on the building itself, using the building’s features as a guide to tell a moving story – there is just no way to describe what we saw! It was by far one of the coolest installations I’ve ever seen. We danced and giggled through the gardens. There was an Alice in Wonderland maze and a Cinderella horse and carriage – all made of lights. It had that special feeling that happens around Christmas. Goska and Paulina had no idea there was such an event when we planned to go – it was just one of those amazing ‘you couldn’t plan this if you tried‘ moments to happen upon.
 

Language highlights:
smacznego: said at the beginning of a meal
nostrovia: cheers!
curva: bitch
dziekuje: thank you (pronounced jen-koo-ya)

Food highlights:
zurek: polish sour cream soup with white sausage and boiled egg
-spinach pierogis in a blue cheese sauce
-beetroot soup
-strudel crepe baked with cheese
 
AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 91
CURRENCIES: 4 – I feel VERY rich in Zloty 😉

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