One year on the road.

One year ago today, on a rainy day in San Francisco, I packed all of my belongings in a 6x8x8 storage unit. I had no clue when I would be unpacking it, where or with who. I didn’t imagine that a year later, I’d still be traveling.

I have been living out of a backpack, traveling the U.S., Australia, and Europe for 12 months while working 40-60 hours a week in Pacific Coast hours. I have explored corners of the world and myself in ways I am still trying to understand. I have been invigorated and exhaustedinspired and discouraged…. enamored and lonely

I still haven’t had time to process it all, I’ve remained in a constant state of movement since I returned stateside in May… I have been flying or driving my SmartCar to visit friends in many cities, completing 5 more Tough Mudders and have started studying to become a certified personal trainer. There has been little rest, but a lot of love and learning.

I’m at a crossroads in my life, relationship and career… vulnerable and exposed in ways I’ve never felt before. I’ve learned to exist more peacefully in the proverbial ‘grey area‘ but it’s not been easy or something I’m entirely comfortable with.

I have a few more weeks of travel before I return to San Francisco on January 3rd to begin the next big adventure… finding home. I crave this stability. I cannot wait to return to my community there, I have traveled the world and realized that it is where I belong. It’s interesting what becomes clearer as the focus or lens changes. I’ll be unpacking and rooting in, creating routines and in some ways, beginning a new life in a familiar place. I’m walking the fine line between excited and terrified. 

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The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Tribute in Cork

I had my first major delay of the trip (not a bad track record with 21 flights and 14 trains under my belt). My flight to Cork kept being pushed back further and further due to technical delays. I was so worried that it was going to be cancelled and I would miss the only chance I had to go to Blarney Castle. Luckily, after 6 hours (and a few beers), I boarded the flight to Cork. I spent most of that time working and calling loved ones, unfortunately the delay meant I had to work until 2am after arriving at the AirBnb (I was also bummed about missing an entire day I could have spent in Edinburgh).

With 3 days (but only 1 full day after taking out time for work, arrival and departure), I had little time to explore but I was able to accomplish the most important thing I went there to dokissing the Blarney Stone.

The legend is that if you bend backward to kiss the Blarney Stone, you’ll be gifted great eloquence (the ability to be a smooth talker). My purpose in making this trek was less to receive the gift of gab (I mean, I’d say I’m pretty set in that department) and more to fulfill an unfulfilled dream of a loved one.

Growing up, my (very proud to be Irish) grandmother, Nonnie, would always talk about how one day we’d adventure to Ireland together to kiss the Blarney Stone and find our pot of gold. She passed away 9 years ago, leaving this dream behind. Yesterday, I climbed the winding, wobbly steps up Blarney Castle with tears in my eyes and her memory in my heart. I couldn’t believe I was really doing it…

I kissed the stone and found a quiet place in the Fern Garden by a waterfall to be completely alone and to let the tears flow. I wanted quiet space to embrace her memory and try to be fully present in the moment. I found a patch of clovers near by and buried the picture under it so that a part of her will always be in Ireland.

Every few years, my grandmother would give me a new claddagh ring (representing love, loyalty and friendship) as I outgrew them. When she passed, I had a tattoo done by a good friend of the family… this design has always held such power and significance in my life. In Blarney Castle, I purchased a new ring (ahem… obviously overpriced at the souvenir shop) to commemorate the moment, to act as a visual reminder of my journey and my inspiration to live with vigor and love.

A large part of the reason I was so compelled to endeavor on this journey is due to the lessons that the loss of my grandmother and other loves ones have taught me. This wisdomthe love of friends and familythe gratitude I feel each day… well, that’s my pot of gold. I am the richest girl in the world.

(I actually wrote a post almost two years ago about her and the story of her death which can be read by clicking this link.)

Moments in Cork:
-Hanging out at the AirBnb apartment with two cute pups named Spotty Dotty and Sir Dobby Dobson.
-Exploring the witch’s den, caves (I even hid from the rain in one!), tunnels (I’m glad I’m short because these spaces got very cramped), waterfalls, gardens (there was even a poison garden!) and trails on the grounds of the Blarney Castle. I got lost more times than I can count due to the unreliable, hard to follow map they provide. I slowly descended and ascended the wishing stairs backwards with my eyes closed in hopes that the witch will grant my wish (Irish folklore). I spent 3 hours wandering but could have easily spent all day here, it was so beautiful.
-Walking through the city center and popping into a few quirky shops.
-Literally ‘lol’ing the humor in the signs and advertisement.
-Working in the afternoon with a view of the Shandon tower and the city of Cork in front of me.

Food Highlights:
O’Conaill’s for hot chocolate
Beef and Guinness stew at the Woodford

Language Highlights:
-I said ‘Huh?’ more times than I can count before I just nodded and smiled (my go to when I don’t understand what the hell someone is saying).

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 144
CURRENCIES: 7

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Edinburgh, you had me at hello

The second I arrived in Edinburgh, I immediately regretted not having more time there. It has a very different vibe then all the previous cities I have been to… the architecture, stone work, green grass and store fronts are unreal. I took more pictures in my 26 hours in Edinburgh than I have in most countries I spent 4-6 days in. 

The people (though difficult to understand… really, is this English?) were incredibly kind and helpful every where I went. I felt at home. This is one of the few places I have visited that I really, really cannot wait to visit again (or maybe I should never leave?!). It was hard to get used to cars on the left side of the road again (and remembering to stay to the left while walking, I just kept getting in everyone’s way and almost got hit a few times) but it was so nice to see advertisement, signs and menus in English after 2 1/2 months!

I have 13 days left of this adventure, which I have mixed feelings about. Work is more stressful than ever (I am now the sole production manager of my company ) so that has been weighing on me a lot. It will be nice to not have to make the most out of every single second in the day to balance full time work and traveling, but I’m not sure what I’ll do with all my free time (probably go crazy)! I’ll be happy to see friends and family, but I’m nervous about returning after four months of traveling on my own. This adventure has required an entirely different mindset and truthfully, it has changed me. How can I figure out what my next steps are? What will make me happy? What will allow me to balance my need to lay roots down with my desire to blow with the wind? I’m doing my best to concentrate on the moment and not what will happen or where I will live when I get back to the States but it is a constant drain of energy to refocus my thinking. Welcome to the brain of an OCD, over-thinking Virgo!

Moments in Edinburgh:
-I walked up and down the Royal Mile, passing the Saint Giles Cathedral and absolutely incredible buildings and cute stores.
-I spent two hours in Edinburgh Castle which was built on a 700 million year old extinct volcano, parts of the castle itself have existed since the 12th century though people have inhabited the rock since 850 BC. There are so many museums (including a war museum with a beautiful photo exhibit of Scottish soldiers in Afghanistan during the last decade) and areas to explore here with breath taking views of Edinburgh.
-I thought San Francisco had finicky weather, but when I walked to the castle I was warm in a t-shirt then freezing and being hailed on within an hour!
-At the recommendation of the bartender, I enjoyed a pint of hard cider at the Jolly Judge while I let my phone charge.
-I couldn’t pass up the opportunity for a themed bar when I walked by a huge statue of Frankenstein so I decided to go in for dinner and as a true testament to my own luck, they happened to have karaoke voted ‘the best in Edinburgh’ on Sunday nights. The bar itself was pretty awesome, they even have a Frankenstein Lager locally brewed just for them which was quite tasty. At one point, Frankenstein was lowered from the ceiling and ‘came to life’. It was kitschy and trashyright up my alley! I found a group of friends that can only be described as ‘my kind of people’ and we sang and danced until I had to leave for my ghost tour (I actually stayed later than anticipated because I had originally wanted to check out some live Scottish music that was happening but I was having too much fun).
-Testing my nerves on the City of the Dead tour as we explored the Underground City, the part of the South Bridge Vaults known as Damnation Alley, Greyfriar’s Graveyard and the Covenanter’s prison. We learned a ‘wee bit‘ of history and heard ghost stories of the South Bridge Entity and the Mackenzie Poltergeist. I luckily had made friends with two ladies from Chicago so I had a hand to squeeze in the darkness!
-I brought my new friends back to the Frankenstein bar… the bartenders and KJ had asked where I went and were happy to have my back… 6 hours in Edinburgh and I was already a regular at a karaoke bar! We had some scotch and beer, dancing and singing some more. After, we had a nightcap at a bar nearby followed by some ridiculously expensive pizza before I walked home around 4am.
Observations: The lyrics in all 3 songs I sang were different in Scotland than when I have sung them in the states. I have no idea why. Isn’t that strange?? Also, every single bathroom I went in to had a condom dispensing machine… not sure what to make of that either!

Food Highlights:
Scotch. That’s a food group, right?

Language Highlights:
-Instead of saying ’little’, I noticed the Scots say ‘wee bit’… As I’m ‘I’m just a wee bit knockered’ (I’m only slightly drunk).

AIRPORTS: 21
FLIGHTS: 20
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 13
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 142
CURRENCIES: 7

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Indulgence in Brussels

I decided to pop into Brussels for a quick day visit on my way from Paris to the Netherlands, purely to eat as much as fucking possible and enjoy some of the best things in life… beer, chocolate and fries. I got lucky with a beautiful, sunshine filled day in their rainy season.

I arrived at 11am, dropped my stuff off at the AirBnb apartment and set off on an adventure. I love how small and easy to walk Brussels is and how the cars actually stop for pedestrians (a first I’ve experience in Europe). I enjoyed the friendliness of the Belgian culture and the cute shops in cobbled alleys.

I took another walking tour as a way to get an overview of the city and met a group of friends from the UK and an Austrian who would become my partners in crime for the rest of the day.

After a quick rest, we met back up for dinner and drinks. The night was closing in and I still hadn’t eaten frites. I went in search of them and found Smile-oke, a karaoke bar. I bought some frites and went back to Delirium to ask my new friends how much they trusted me and if they were down for an adventure… They were in. When 9 white people walk into a small, dimly lit bar full of Vietnamese business men doing lines of coke, you know it promises to be an interesting evening. We started putting our songs in and soon even the patrons were singing in English along with us. I had originally planned for it to be an early night but that never really happens, does it? Things gradually got stranger and we decided to head home, but that didn’t stop the singing… Sarah and I sang All Saints and Cher as we strolled through the main square and in the streets in search of a cab. I got home around 4:30am and enjoyed the 3 hours of sleep I was able to squeeze in before my train left. It was one of my favorite days of this trip. It was nice to be with group that felt like my crew back home… vulgar (in all the best ways), spontaneous and fun… I laughed all day.

Moments in Brussels:
-cramming my way through a huge flea market outside of the train station with two backpacks on
-stopping at Jat, an adorable coffee house where I purchased an ice coffee to sip on while I walked through Brussels Park
-seeing the Manneken Pis, a fountain of small Dutch boy peeing (the Belgian have good senses of humor!)
Highlights from the Sandemann’s New Brussels Walking Tour: learning about the comic art history and scene including TinTin… hearing the history and culture of Belgium… seeing the Grand Place, Town Hall, Maison du Roi, The Stock Exchange, Galeries Saint Hubert, The Monnaie Opera, St Nicolas’ Church, the River Senne, the The Royal Square and the Mont des Arts

Food Highlights:
-sampling tasty house made truffles from Chocopolis (where I purchased 5 bars that I’ll somehow have to make it through 3 weeks of travel without eating)
-grabbing a warm waffle topped with whipped cream and Nutella (I asked the girl to make her favorite for me, it was a great choice)… thanks for the tip, Adam! I actually had to find a side alley to massacre this waffle, my face and hands were covered in Nutella
-dining with my new friends and having our patience tested as we waited over an hour for Middle Eastern food which was at least tasty (or maybe we were just starving?)… I was able to convince the man to give us free espresso
frites… deliciously fried twice… with a spicy mayo sauce
Delirium, a local brewery that has hundreds of beers (I have always loved their brews and was so excited to go there!)

Language Highlights:
-I can’t say I learned even a bit of Dutch or any more French, but I did sing in Vietnamese… that has to count for something, right?

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 12
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 10
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 135
CURRENCIES: 5

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Blossoming in Paris

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” -Aldous Huxley

I had braced myself after hearing numerous warnings of the rude manner of French people… but I have to say, I was met with nothing but kindness and warmth where ever I went. People have conceptions of other cultures… but let’s face it, there are assholes and angels in every country. You get back what you put into the world and into your interaction with the people in it.

Actually, the only semi-strange and certainly awkward experience I had was with an American through couch surfing but I luckily found a nice room through AirBnB close to the metro.

With limited time in Paris, I was a bit stressed in planning. I only had one 1/2 mornings before work (I arrived at the airport at 10am on Thursday), one full day and three evenings before an early train departure on Sunday. Before beginning this trip, I had said my mantra would be ‘whatever I do and see will be enough’. But then you arrive in these amazing cities and want to do absolutely everything. Paris is huge and brilliant with much to offer, I had to consider what I really wanted to see versus what every guidebook and traveler told me I must see.

Cory, a friend from high school who I hadn’t talked to in awhile messaged me, we chatted a bit about travel and she offered a sentiment that brought me back to my mantra, “Sending my love, and my courage, and my assurance that whatever you’re doing however you’re doing it is just the way you should be doing it, you’re doing more than enough, it’s okay.”

These words were just the reminder I needed to embrace each moment and do the things that would make me happy instead of killing myself trying to fit everything in. So, I climbed the Eiffel Tower… strolled the broad and narrow streets of different neighborhoods… spent an hour getting ready for a date with myself to the Moulin Rouge (after I enjoyed a warm bubble bath listening to Boyz II Men)….  ate pastries and sipped coffee in adorable cafes… While I feel I am leaving with some unfinished business in Paris, I can say that my time there was perfect and just as it should have been.

There was something about Paris that felt lonely to me… part of me wished I had a companion with me in these moments, the other part was grateful to have the courage to do them on my own and still have fun.

A former co-worker who I never got to meet in person (I work for a remote company) just happened to be in Paris. I was scrolling Instagram and saw a picture he posted right about my picture of the Louvre. He was leading a workshop on living a creative life and invited me to check it out… it was a perfect way to spend my last morning in Paris.

Not only did I get to finally get to put a face to Rico’s amazing energy, intellect and kindness, but I got to spend the morning with the synapses in my brain shooting off like lightening… meeting inspiring people from all walks of life.

Later that evening, I met up with some of the friends I’d made in the workshop for a drink (students at Stanford). We talked about family, life, travel, dreams, inspirations… One asked me what my overall lesson would be from my journey thus far. I had to pause a moment and think back to the night before and my thought process as I, alone, watched the lights twinkling on the Eiffel Tower at midnight. I said my biggest lesson so far would be to not let the fear of being alone stop you from doing or trying anything.

Moments in Paris:
Lizard Lounge: at Arnee’s suggestion I went to this supposedly wild and fun bar… I got there at 11:30pm and they had decided to close early so I snuck in one drink before catching the last train home… womp womp
even the toilet paper in Paris is fancy it’s pink!
-walking through Arc de Triomphe
-walking over 684 steps up Eiffel Tower
-strolling along Seine River
-passing through the Tuileries Garden and seeing the Louvre at night
Sandemann’s NewParis Walking Tour Highlights: My tour guide’s name was Justine and a woman I befriended on the tour was named Jackie! It was a cute coincidence that made me smile. I learned the history of kings, queens, torture, revolutions… saw the Saint Michel Fountain, the Notre Dame de Paris (and learned how Victor Hugo saved this church from destruction with his writing of the Hunchback of Notre Dame), the Palace of Justice, the prison where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before decapitation, Napoléon’s Tomb, the Académie Française, the Assemblée National, the Grand & Petit Palais, the Latin Quarter, the Pont Neuf, the Place de la Concorde, the Opéra Garnier, the Palais Royal, the Musée d’Orsay and an Obalesque.
-I walked down Champs-Elysées with Sophie and Tim, an awesome married couple from Sydney that I met on the tour
-I rushed to find the best viewing point of the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling light show, I started at Pont Alexander III (which was suggested on TripAdvisor as the best location) but then began walking toward it, feeling like I could find a better spot… which I did right before midnight!
-the beautiful La Saint Chapelle basilica, it was built in 13th century and has 15 high stained glass windows which make up most of the church
And the highlight of my time in Paris… taking myself on a date night to the Moulin Rouge!! This cabaret has been open since 1889 and was obviously made famous by the movie (“The greatest thing you’ll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return”). I saw the can can, phenomenal costumes, talented performances, beautiful sets, a woman dive into a pool that rose from the ground filled with 6 anacondas that she wrestled with, a couple on roller skates performing very dangerous, impressive stunt, incredible acrobatics anddddddd I was asked to come on stage where I performed in front of 850 people (literally my dream coming true, I can’t believe this is my life)!!!!

Food Highlights:
soup a l’oignon (french onion soup is my favorite soup)
Willi’s Wine Bar: cheese and wine
L’As Du Fallafel: the best falafel sandwich I’ve ever had… it was packed with falafel, pickled vegetables and roasted eggplant… I’m drooling just thinking about it (thanks Cameron and Adam for this suggestion!)
-morning coffee and a croissant overlooking the Seine
-lemon and sugar crepe
macaroons
-a quick lunch with my new Aussie friends at a seeming below after Middle Eastern restaurant that ended up being delicious (seriously why does Paris have the best falafel?)

Language Highlights:
Opulent (first time I’ve heard the word – it was used multiple times by many people when describing Paris): “ostentatiously costly and luxurious.”
-Hello: bonjour
-Thank you: merci
-Excuse me: excusez-moi
-Goodnight: bonsoir

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 9
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 134
CURRENCIES: 5

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Heartbreak in Venice

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhilethen tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding handsembracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarationsaccepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeonsI couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over themack
San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

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A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

We had one afternoon, one full day and two nights to explore Cinque Terre, a coast on the Italian Riviera consisting of five villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).

We stayed in Corniglia, climbing 365 steps to reach the town’s center as it sits the highest above the water. We were greeted by our AirBnBer’s father, Beppe. He spoke very little English but that didn’t stop him from giving us a full tour of the apartment and how to use everything in it – using hand gestures and facial expressions until we completely understood every point. He left us with coffee, tea, his homemade jam and crackers. The apartment was adorable but really not meant for anyone over 5’6″. At 6’5″, Jon spent most of his time sitting or hunched over (even in the shower).

The area really seems to take advantage of the off-season, as many shops and restaurants were closed. Unfortunately this meant that most of the hiking trails were closed as well which is what you come to Cinque Terre to do! We made the most of it. We explored our village on our first night then dined while overlooking the ridge and water. As this is a quieter area with zero nightlife, we took advantage of the evenings to relax… to cuddle up with a movie and get some very needed sleep after the hustle of Rome.

On our full day, we used the local train to visit each village since most trails were closed. We saw churches, ruins of castles, beaches and more… We ate gelato and soaked our feet in the Caspian Sea… We peeked our heads into shops, loving the handmade items and the boutiques… We got more gelato and started our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It was so warm, I couldn’t imagine how hot would be in summer. We came across small ledges and adorable bridges. We saw stunning views of the villages. We watched the sun begin to set as we arrived in Monterosso and drank wine by the water in the final moments of it’s descent.

It was perfect. It was romantic. I got lost in each moment then the reality of sharing in it with my ex-ish boyfriend began to set in. It was easy to sink back into ‘us’, but what divided us originally came to the surface again. We had a few long talks about everything there could possibly be to talk about. My heart was beginning to tear again but I wanted to enjoy my last few days with the man that I love so dearly, even if it meant there was no future. I had to reset my brain to focus on enjoying this time together.

Moments in Cinque Terre:
Using a bidet for the first time… I’m not sure if I did it right but it sure did feel wrong.
-Taking the train to each village and walking around… though they are close, they are all unique and have distinct vibes and sights.
-Eating gelato and hiking. Does it get any better?
-The views from on the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.
-Finding another random cat sanctuary on our hike… Why are there so many strays in Italy?

Food and drink highlights:
-We had the tastiest gelato at the beginning of our hike in Vernazza… we ate gelato every day but this was our favorite.
-The food was not worth mentioning except for one dish… this region is known for their pesto and we certainly discovered why (I wish I knew their secret)!
-We had wine made from the grapes in the region, that was a treat!

Language highlights:
hand gestures: they can communicate more than you’d think (especially if you are Italian!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 4
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 103
CURRENCIES: 5

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When In Rome

I have been taking random full or half days here and there along my trip but fair consistently working 40 – 50 hours a week while traveling. I’ve been touring all day, working all afternoon and evening then partying all night while also planning for the next parts of the trip (transport to the next place, accommodations when I get there, bus and train research for while I’m there and creating a list of the ‘absolutely have’ to see and do’s)… all by myself. It’s exhausting to say the least… trying to exist and be present in one moment while planning the next. So I was grateful to not only have a travel companion for a bit but also to take a real vacation away from the computer and to have full days to do with as I please.

For Christmas, I gifted my boyfriend of a year money for a passport and the offer of a ticket to meet me in Europe… anywhere and anytime he’d like. I realized that we might not stay together as the different stages of life we were in were dragging us further and further apart, but I wanted him to have the experience of traveling abroad. I have wanted to see the world my whole life, but up until two years ago, I never thought I would have the opportunity. Jon works so hard and does his best to be a good man in a world where that may not always get you very far… I wanted him to know that it is possible and real, that hopefully life won’t always be so difficult. We did end up breaking up right before I left for the international part of my trip, the unknown of what would happen when I came back was too much to bear and worry about while I was traveling. But we kept in touch – I thought it would be troublesome to have to keep in contact while traveling before I left, but when I got to my first foreign speaking country and had that mini-meltdown, I was so grateful to have the support and encouragement throughout the day (I’m able to text internationally). It’s like I had home with me, even 5,800 miles away. He decided to take me up on the offer and we began planning a week in Italy.

I arrived a few hours before he did, seeing the beauty of a sunset in Rome on the hour long bus ride from the airport. I walked through cobbled alleys to meet Pietro, our AirBnB host, and had a brief but lovely conversation. He thankfully pointed me in the direction of his favorite pizza place as I was starving and knew Jon would be too when he arrived at 11pm. When I got home with the food after an exhausting day of traveling (including the sketchy cab experience and frustrating airport situations), I saw that a smiley face had been drawn on the box from the older waiter who told me I had a beautiful smile… it made my day and was a great start to the trip.

They say ‘Rome wasn’t built in a day’ but it is very possible to walk it in such! We walked over 25,000 steps every day we were in Rome (according to Jon’s FitBit). We spent 3 1/2 days strolling and stuffing our faces. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to enjoy Italian food in the states again.

Moments in Rome:
Strolling along the streets of Rome… seeing so many beautiful sights, archways and statues (more than would be worth noting and boring you)
Fontana di Trevi: though under construction, I was still able to through in a coin and make my wish that I might one day return!
The Pantheon: the columns on the outside, the art on the inside
The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument: the building itself was stunning and we took the elevator to the top floor to get a great panoramic view of Rome
Circus Maximus: at first we couldn’t understand why people were taking pictures of a dirty, random field, but then we figured it out… it’s pretty cool to know that it’s where the chariot races were held!
Largo di Torre Argentina: remains of the old theater where Caesar was killed, now a ‘no-kill’ shelter for homeless cats… ironic?
The Colosseum: architecturally stunning and incredible to imagine what it was centuries ago (minus all the awful death, ya know)
-walking down Tevere River at night (which is probably everything every tour book warns you against) and coming across a group of sketchy people… deciding we’d pass normally and (I took out my spoon for defense) then their dogs started barking and we hightailed it in the opposite direction
-we had terrible, rude service but a delicious cocktail at Barnum Cafe, danced to decade old music at Sloppy Sam’s (motto: classy in the front, sloppy in the back) after jager bombs and gross fruity shots (as it were college all over again) then fancy cocktails (including a proper Sazerac) at The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy (it’s hard to find and the bouncer peeks through a slider when you ring… we are official card-carrying members now)
Terme di Caracalla and the baths: ruins of roman baths… the area is huge and even what remains is beautiful, I can only imagine what it would have been like
Piramide di caio cestio: an ancient pyramid from 18 B.C. built as a tomb for a religious leader, it felt pretty random but it was cool to see A pyramid even if it’s not THE pyramids
Campo di Fiori: we were staying just a few minutes away from this square which is lively during the day with vendors and again at night with restaurants and bars
Vatican Museum: the Egyptian exhibition, seeing a Van Gogh painting, the paintings and statues from several hundred or even thousand years B.C. and obviously… the Sistine Chapel
-after hours of walking around in the rain, the jacket my mom lent me was not holding up and the two layers under it were also soaked… luckily a North Face store was nearby and had a 50% off salesorry mom, but maybe your jacket is keeping a homeless woman in Rome warm now?
-on our last day, with full bellies from Dino e Toni’s, we trekked over an hour and up many hills in the rain to find ‘the keyhole‘ (a recommendation from Arnee)… this inconspicuous door gave us a beautiful cylindrical view of green shrubs and the Vatican (which is on the other side of the city)… even in the cloudy weather, the view was worth the hassle

Recommendation:
Buy your tickets in advance for the Vatican museum and book the earliest tour… even with our tickets early in the morning, we dealt with an insane crowd. We ended up not going into to Saint Peter’s Basilica after the museum because the line was so long (and this is the off season) and we kept being harassed by men selling umbrellas and selfie sticks and ‘tour guides’ trying to sell you a ’tour’ for 20 euro when the entrance is free (the last guy was such a dick, we actually just had to walk away).
Beware of the scooters. They will mow your ass down without hesitation.

Food highlights:
Sette Oche: baked potatoes with different types of cheese, pork covered with pancetta, spaghetti alla gricio, salami pizza, wine, espresso and limoncello (the best aperitif there is!)
Gelato every day… it’s so different than what I expected (I thought it was fruity and more like sorbet, instead it is creamy and comes in all sorts of amazing flavors… it’s better than ice cream!)
Luzzi’s for Lunch: thanks to Mel for the suggestion… we had melon & prosciutto, phenomenal pizza and the tastiest lasagna I’ve ever had
Pompeii: a taster selection of 4 tiny tiramisu 4 taster and canolis that we ate on the Spanish Steps… does it get any more Roman than that?!
-Babington’s Tea Room: I was so exhausted, I fell asleep mid-pour and spilt hot water into my lapclassy
The night we had two dinners: at the first place we had minestrone, zucchini blossoms (with anchovies… yuck), fried artichoke, spaghetti carbonara (my favorite dish) and a bottle of wine… at the second restaurant we had rolled pasta stuffed with spinach & ricotta, meatballs, another bottle of wine, prosecco (my favorite drink) and grappa
-lunch at Dino e Tony… this was so amazing that it’s going to get it’s own postseriously

Language highlights:
-Hearing my last name pronounced by the airport limo driver… as it should be!
-Hello and goodbye: ciao!
-Thank you: grazie!
-Fuck you: vaffanculo (I knew this one already from being babysat by my great great great aunt and namesake, but it was funny to hear and recognize everywhere!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 101
CURRENCIES: 5

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