One year on the road.

One year ago today, on a rainy day in San Francisco, I packed all of my belongings in a 6x8x8 storage unit. I had no clue when I would be unpacking it, where or with who. I didn’t imagine that a year later, I’d still be traveling.

I have been living out of a backpack, traveling the U.S., Australia, and Europe for 12 months while working 40-60 hours a week in Pacific Coast hours. I have explored corners of the world and myself in ways I am still trying to understand. I have been invigorated and exhaustedinspired and discouraged…. enamored and lonely

I still haven’t had time to process it all, I’ve remained in a constant state of movement since I returned stateside in May… I have been flying or driving my SmartCar to visit friends in many cities, completing 5 more Tough Mudders and have started studying to become a certified personal trainer. There has been little rest, but a lot of love and learning.

I’m at a crossroads in my life, relationship and career… vulnerable and exposed in ways I’ve never felt before. I’ve learned to exist more peacefully in the proverbial ‘grey area‘ but it’s not been easy or something I’m entirely comfortable with.

I have a few more weeks of travel before I return to San Francisco on January 3rd to begin the next big adventure… finding home. I crave this stability. I cannot wait to return to my community there, I have traveled the world and realized that it is where I belong. It’s interesting what becomes clearer as the focus or lens changes. I’ll be unpacking and rooting in, creating routines and in some ways, beginning a new life in a familiar place. I’m walking the fine line between excited and terrified. 

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The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by.”

I am in tears over this piece my best friend sent to me today. Since returning, I have been having such a difficult time trying to put into words my experiences while traveling alone abroad for four months. It’s almost like I can’t acknowledge that it even happened because I don’t know what to make of it…. yet. Jed Jenkins so eloquently put into words why I began this journey, maybe it will help me to find my own words to describe what I have learned as a result of it.

“Routine is the enemy of time, it makes it fly by… I want to be aware of every day I’m alive and I want to make it to 85 and be exhausted because I have been alive and awake every single day… It’s about getting out of your routine and that could look like anything… And that’s why I’m doing this bike trip because I don’t want my days to control me… I want to control my days… I want to choose a mind and a soul that’s wide awake… It turns your 100 years on this planet into a thousand.”

See the video here: https://vimeo.com/120206922

London: The Final Countdown (da da ding ding ding)

Throughout four months of travel, I have been able to update my blog within two days of leaving a city even while working, enjoying the new destination and planning for the next. However, I’ve been back in Connecticut for almost three weeks and have been dragging my feet to write my ‘last’ blog post. Perhaps I was concerned that penning this entry would really cement that the trip is over?

It was a beautiful time to be in London… I was blessed with more perfect weather and everything seemed to fall right into place. Literally everything.

It was the perfect last stop as so many things came full circle and I got to meet up with many people I knew from home or traveling. It was a good ease back into not being alone anymore: I caught up with Ellie who I met at a bar in Venice in March… Tim who I met on a walking tour in Barcelona in April… Claire, another of my colleagues from my remote company… Connor, Jon’s co-worker and a good friend of ours who happens to be working in London for a few months…my favorite kiwi, Dean who I’d met in San Francisco when I first moved there 4 years ago… Angel, who I worked with at Outback Steakhouse ten years ago… and the stars aligned for Nicola and I to be together again in the last days of my trip which could not have been more poetic since I began this journey with her in Australia 4 months prior.

Angel and her husband, Andrew were incredible hosts. I barely knew Angel outside of work but always felt a strong connection with her. Catching up after a decade demonstrated that my intuition is usually correct. We had such a wonderful time chatting and laughing as if we’d grown up together and never spent a day apart. The irony of watching my former Outback co-worker get along so well with my Australian friend was not lost on me and was too heart-warming to put into words (but don’t worry, we have the pictures that are worth thousands of ‘em).

I think it will be awhile before I can really reflect on these four months as a whole. At the moment, it seems like a hazy dream…. something that happened to someone else in a different life. I’m home and it feels as if nothing AND everything has changed.

Moments in London:
-Staying with Angel and her husband, Andrew, in the apartments originally built for the athletes of the 2012 Olympics – London is setting a great example of what sustainability and community improvement for host countries can be like
-Walking along the Thames River with Connor to see the London Eye, Big Ben, Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Sky Garden and the Tower of London… we enjoyed a beer by the water then had lunch (where I was ID’ed to prove I was of legal drinking age which is 18 – score!) before I had to start work
-Surviving the central line, or Satan’s Asshole, as Andrew so aptly calls it for it’s depth under ground, horrendous, screeching sounds, packed cars and muggy heat
-After running up over 200 stairs and about a mile to the meeting location, Angel and I barely made it to Covent Garden in time for the walking tour to meet up with Tim
Highlights from Sandeman’s New Europe Walking Tour: Buckingham Palace (including the changing of the guards), Churchill’s War Cabinet Bunker, The House of Parliament, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the Palace of Westminster and St. James’s Park where I saw a black swan (I never knew they really existed)!
-I learned what ‘hay fever‘ is by experiencing it’s madness with the blooming trees of London and the tiny, sharp pollen prickers that try to blind you (OUCH!)
-Meeting Claire and having just as much fun in person as we do on conference lines… we got coffee and walked through the Victorian Park
-Meeting Ellie for ‘a drink’ which turned into two bottles of wine over girl talk and a Coors while waiting for the train home
-Hanging out in the super hip Camden district with Angel and Nicola where we flipped through the racks of vintage clothing of the Stable Markets, checked out the Rave / Kink clothing in Cyderdog and dressed to the nines as Victorian badasses for old time-y photos (where we were a major, but entertaining pain in the ass)… we spent the entire afternoon shopping and giggling like we were in a 90’s montage
-Dean led the ladies on a long walk to the Camden Town Brewery for some fucking delicious brews, gave us the real science behind the ‘lock system’ for boat passage and then took us to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese (the oldest pub in London where we attempted to list all 50 states then had a TMI conversation with the last stragglers in the bar before closing)
-Buying matching Paddington Bear pajamas after walking around the mall with Nicola (I wish we had PriMark and especially Tiger in the States) then strolling through Hackney Wick, East London and the Ridley Road Market stopping for ciders and beers in each neighborhood
-Walking toward the Shoreditch neighborhood and witnessing a crazy scene of a woman running back and forth across a busy street, trying to fight two men with a baby in her arms… it’s good to know that dialing ‘9-1-1’ works anywhere thanks to the influence of American culture!
-Spending my last night in Europe with Connor… we had a beer a Waxy O’Connor’s (another fun theme bar), walked around the Theater district of Soho (which reminds me of Times Square), watched the street performers and ate dinner at Jamie Oliver’s diner (my food crush since 2001)

Food Highlights:
-Angel cooking British classics she learned from her mother in law including bangers and mash, English breakfast and scones with clotted milk and black currant jam
toffee crisp chocolate bar, England has some tasty candy
Shepard’s Pie with sweet potatoes and lentils
-the most delicious chicken shawarma wrap
Indian food takeout (so good) during a Disney movie night… London really is amazing for all cuisines
my last meal in Europe: bangers and mash with a proper pint at the airport

Language Highlights:
-making out: snogging
-crosswalk: zeh-bra crossing
-ping pong: whiff waff
-that’s crazy: that’s mental!
-the story behind the expression ‘a stiff drink’ involving a dead admiral in a brandy barrel and some thirsty sailors

AIRPORTS: 24
FLIGHTS: 22
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 15
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 154
CURRENCIES: 7

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Dublin: the randomness that brings us together

Two weeks ago, I posted on Facebook asking for any connections or advice people had for Denmark, Scotland and Ireland. Shantee, a high school classmate connected me to a guy she met while backpacking in South America who is from Dublin. Sean immediately started helping me plan the Ireland segment of my trip and offered a place to stay with him and his roommate, Cian. Being a traveler himself, Sean knew all the comforts I would appreciate and made sure they were available to me. I got to do laundry, take a hot shower and completely relax.

The day after my arrival, Gośka (my Polish friend through couch surfing) came to meet me. We planned out an amazing adventure for my last week in Europe – Ireland is very dear to her so it was the perfect place and timing to meet up again. I was grateful to not only be meeting up with a familiar face, but to be around a woman whose energy is just so contagious and radiant.

I love the random circumstances that bring people together. The lot of us discussed this often and deeply over several pints during my 4 days in Dublin (there really is a strong drinking culture here). We told many stories of travel, adventures, love, tom-foolery and heartbreak. It’s amazing to watch people from different cultures bond through experience.

Moments in Dublin:
-People watching with my morning coffee at the Grove Road. I met a nice guy named Brian who was telling me how we hopes to visit California so I doodled a little map of my favorite road trip down the Pacific Coast Highway with suggested stops.
-Learning of an important vote happening in Ireland on May 22nd that will determine marriage rights for gay couples. The propaganda for the ‘Vote No’ side was just absolutely absurd and infuriating. I will be checking in to see how this vote goes!
-Wandering down random alleys where I found great graffiti and interesting art pieces.
-Visiting the Trinity College campus (so beautiful) to see the Book of Kells (a book of gospels written in 800 A.D. on sheets made of calfskin with incredibly artistry into each page and letter) and the library in the Great Hall (where there was an awesome exhibit of myths in children’s literature). I talked my way into the student discount. 🙂
-Taking a photo in front of the Dublin Castle of which a green streak appeared (there was nothing green around and I’ve never had anything like that happen with photos on my iPhone before). Perhaps it was a Leprechaun? Or a sign from my Nonnie?
-A tour of the Guinness Storehouse: seeing the history of the factory, the production of the beer and their marketing / advertising over the years. There was a guided experience in the tasting chambers then I enjoyed a beer at the top of the factory in the Gravity Bar overlooking Dublin.
-Beers and pizza at Blackbird with Gośka, Sean and Cian. It was a huge bar with an outdoor patio, funky decorations and board games everywhere.
-Returning home for a few more beers and ending up in a dance party (jumping on the mattresses in the living room).
-Exploring Dublin with Gośka before headed to the tour at the Old Jameson Distillery where we learned about the history of the company, their triple distillation process and had a nice comparison tasting of Irish, Scotch and American whiskeys.
-After having a few more drinks, heading to the National Leprechaun Museum (where I was able to score another student discount) where we played and giggled like children while listening to Irish folklore.
-Beers at O’Neill’s to hear some live Irish music and step dancing (though, we couldn’t actually see it, but rather had to watch a screen of it going on in another part of the bar).

Food Highlights:
-Guinness and Jameson (still sticking with booze being a food group in Ireland)
Bangers and mash followed by Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake at The Porterhouse Brewing Co. (they had an amazing beer list)
Irish Coffee at the Boar’s Head Pub

Language Highlights:
-nap: kip
“ya bloody legend”
-cheers (good health): slainte
-awesome: “fucking class”
-making out: shifting
-from the Jameson label, learning that “sine metu” means ‘without fear’ in Latin

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 147
CURRENCIES: 7

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Tribute in Cork

I had my first major delay of the trip (not a bad track record with 21 flights and 14 trains under my belt). My flight to Cork kept being pushed back further and further due to technical delays. I was so worried that it was going to be cancelled and I would miss the only chance I had to go to Blarney Castle. Luckily, after 6 hours (and a few beers), I boarded the flight to Cork. I spent most of that time working and calling loved ones, unfortunately the delay meant I had to work until 2am after arriving at the AirBnb (I was also bummed about missing an entire day I could have spent in Edinburgh).

With 3 days (but only 1 full day after taking out time for work, arrival and departure), I had little time to explore but I was able to accomplish the most important thing I went there to dokissing the Blarney Stone.

The legend is that if you bend backward to kiss the Blarney Stone, you’ll be gifted great eloquence (the ability to be a smooth talker). My purpose in making this trek was less to receive the gift of gab (I mean, I’d say I’m pretty set in that department) and more to fulfill an unfulfilled dream of a loved one.

Growing up, my (very proud to be Irish) grandmother, Nonnie, would always talk about how one day we’d adventure to Ireland together to kiss the Blarney Stone and find our pot of gold. She passed away 9 years ago, leaving this dream behind. Yesterday, I climbed the winding, wobbly steps up Blarney Castle with tears in my eyes and her memory in my heart. I couldn’t believe I was really doing it…

I kissed the stone and found a quiet place in the Fern Garden by a waterfall to be completely alone and to let the tears flow. I wanted quiet space to embrace her memory and try to be fully present in the moment. I found a patch of clovers near by and buried the picture under it so that a part of her will always be in Ireland.

Every few years, my grandmother would give me a new claddagh ring (representing love, loyalty and friendship) as I outgrew them. When she passed, I had a tattoo done by a good friend of the family… this design has always held such power and significance in my life. In Blarney Castle, I purchased a new ring (ahem… obviously overpriced at the souvenir shop) to commemorate the moment, to act as a visual reminder of my journey and my inspiration to live with vigor and love.

A large part of the reason I was so compelled to endeavor on this journey is due to the lessons that the loss of my grandmother and other loves ones have taught me. This wisdomthe love of friends and familythe gratitude I feel each day… well, that’s my pot of gold. I am the richest girl in the world.

(I actually wrote a post almost two years ago about her and the story of her death which can be read by clicking this link.)

Moments in Cork:
-Hanging out at the AirBnb apartment with two cute pups named Spotty Dotty and Sir Dobby Dobson.
-Exploring the witch’s den, caves (I even hid from the rain in one!), tunnels (I’m glad I’m short because these spaces got very cramped), waterfalls, gardens (there was even a poison garden!) and trails on the grounds of the Blarney Castle. I got lost more times than I can count due to the unreliable, hard to follow map they provide. I slowly descended and ascended the wishing stairs backwards with my eyes closed in hopes that the witch will grant my wish (Irish folklore). I spent 3 hours wandering but could have easily spent all day here, it was so beautiful.
-Walking through the city center and popping into a few quirky shops.
-Literally ‘lol’ing the humor in the signs and advertisement.
-Working in the afternoon with a view of the Shandon tower and the city of Cork in front of me.

Food Highlights:
O’Conaill’s for hot chocolate
Beef and Guinness stew at the Woodford

Language Highlights:
-I said ‘Huh?’ more times than I can count before I just nodded and smiled (my go to when I don’t understand what the hell someone is saying).

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 144
CURRENCIES: 7

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Edinburgh, you had me at hello

The second I arrived in Edinburgh, I immediately regretted not having more time there. It has a very different vibe then all the previous cities I have been to… the architecture, stone work, green grass and store fronts are unreal. I took more pictures in my 26 hours in Edinburgh than I have in most countries I spent 4-6 days in. 

The people (though difficult to understand… really, is this English?) were incredibly kind and helpful every where I went. I felt at home. This is one of the few places I have visited that I really, really cannot wait to visit again (or maybe I should never leave?!). It was hard to get used to cars on the left side of the road again (and remembering to stay to the left while walking, I just kept getting in everyone’s way and almost got hit a few times) but it was so nice to see advertisement, signs and menus in English after 2 1/2 months!

I have 13 days left of this adventure, which I have mixed feelings about. Work is more stressful than ever (I am now the sole production manager of my company ) so that has been weighing on me a lot. It will be nice to not have to make the most out of every single second in the day to balance full time work and traveling, but I’m not sure what I’ll do with all my free time (probably go crazy)! I’ll be happy to see friends and family, but I’m nervous about returning after four months of traveling on my own. This adventure has required an entirely different mindset and truthfully, it has changed me. How can I figure out what my next steps are? What will make me happy? What will allow me to balance my need to lay roots down with my desire to blow with the wind? I’m doing my best to concentrate on the moment and not what will happen or where I will live when I get back to the States but it is a constant drain of energy to refocus my thinking. Welcome to the brain of an OCD, over-thinking Virgo!

Moments in Edinburgh:
-I walked up and down the Royal Mile, passing the Saint Giles Cathedral and absolutely incredible buildings and cute stores.
-I spent two hours in Edinburgh Castle which was built on a 700 million year old extinct volcano, parts of the castle itself have existed since the 12th century though people have inhabited the rock since 850 BC. There are so many museums (including a war museum with a beautiful photo exhibit of Scottish soldiers in Afghanistan during the last decade) and areas to explore here with breath taking views of Edinburgh.
-I thought San Francisco had finicky weather, but when I walked to the castle I was warm in a t-shirt then freezing and being hailed on within an hour!
-At the recommendation of the bartender, I enjoyed a pint of hard cider at the Jolly Judge while I let my phone charge.
-I couldn’t pass up the opportunity for a themed bar when I walked by a huge statue of Frankenstein so I decided to go in for dinner and as a true testament to my own luck, they happened to have karaoke voted ‘the best in Edinburgh’ on Sunday nights. The bar itself was pretty awesome, they even have a Frankenstein Lager locally brewed just for them which was quite tasty. At one point, Frankenstein was lowered from the ceiling and ‘came to life’. It was kitschy and trashyright up my alley! I found a group of friends that can only be described as ‘my kind of people’ and we sang and danced until I had to leave for my ghost tour (I actually stayed later than anticipated because I had originally wanted to check out some live Scottish music that was happening but I was having too much fun).
-Testing my nerves on the City of the Dead tour as we explored the Underground City, the part of the South Bridge Vaults known as Damnation Alley, Greyfriar’s Graveyard and the Covenanter’s prison. We learned a ‘wee bit‘ of history and heard ghost stories of the South Bridge Entity and the Mackenzie Poltergeist. I luckily had made friends with two ladies from Chicago so I had a hand to squeeze in the darkness!
-I brought my new friends back to the Frankenstein bar… the bartenders and KJ had asked where I went and were happy to have my back… 6 hours in Edinburgh and I was already a regular at a karaoke bar! We had some scotch and beer, dancing and singing some more. After, we had a nightcap at a bar nearby followed by some ridiculously expensive pizza before I walked home around 4am.
Observations: The lyrics in all 3 songs I sang were different in Scotland than when I have sung them in the states. I have no idea why. Isn’t that strange?? Also, every single bathroom I went in to had a condom dispensing machine… not sure what to make of that either!

Food Highlights:
Scotch. That’s a food group, right?

Language Highlights:
-Instead of saying ’little’, I noticed the Scots say ‘wee bit’… As I’m ‘I’m just a wee bit knockered’ (I’m only slightly drunk).

AIRPORTS: 21
FLIGHTS: 20
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 13
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 142
CURRENCIES: 7

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New ‘Old’ friends in Copenhagen

Copenhagen was not originally on my traveling list, but I met really fun people on a bar crawl in Berlin who invited me to check it out. Sadly, they were away the weekend I would be able to visit but I booked three days anyway.

Fortunately when I was in Seville, Spain three weeks ago, my couch surfing host and I popped into this seedy little bar where we met an awesome couple, a Norwegian girl and a Finnish guy, who happen to live in Copenhagen! They invited me to come and stay with them… an offer I gladly accepted.

It was a really nice weekend with Veronica and Marko… relaxing and familiar. I felt like I was hanging out with old friends. With the exception of 3 days in my last 2 weeks of this journey, I will be meeting up with friends. After weeks of traveling alone, I’m looking forward to this comfort… it will be a nice way to prepare for my return to the States.

On the morning of my departure, one of the friends (Sapna, an American student) I met in Berlin happened to be arriving. I went four hours early to the airport to sit and have breakfast with her. I met her at beginning of my Eurotrip, so it was nice to catch up with her after we’ve both been traveling for two months.

I am grateful for my global community. 🙂

Moments in Copenhagen:
-trying to figure out the denominations of the Danish Kroner… most certainly the prettiest coins (p.s. Copenhagen is SO expensive)
-walking around the neighborhood with Marko, passing the Tivoli Gardens and funky buildings
-strolling the beach with Veronica to check out the 14 mile bridge that connects Denmark and Sweden over the ocean (but it was too foggy to see it)
-walking through the park and seeing interesting new takes on sports… bubble futbol, land paddling, windsurfing go-karts and futbol golf
-passing the Marble Church, the Queen’s Palace and the Royal Theater on the way to the Little Mermaid
-seeing the Little Mermaid with the pin a good friend, Jessica gave me at the beginning of this journey
-on the way back, finding a Japanese festival under the cherry blossoms with people dressed as anime characters, sumo wrestling and karaoke… also food, beer and art from Japan
-visiting Christiania, the ‘free state’ in Copenhagen… basically what I imagine Burning Man would be like if people could live there year round
-reading the synopsis of the original Little Mermaid by Hans Christian Andersen (it’s pretty fucking twisted) while drinking beers in the ‘Green Light District’

Food Highlights:
-Having an al fresco lunch at a vegetarian buffet in Christiana.
-On a cold, rainy night, I decided to make homemade baked mac and cheese after I’d heard Veronica and Marko had never had it (it’s also my favorite food which I haven’t had in 5 months). Unfortunately, bread crumbs here are used to bake and not cook so the crusty layer on top was a bit sweet and threw the dish off but it was still delicious in its gooey glory.

Language Highlights:
-A mix up of language at the grocery store when asking for ‘paprika’ and was brought to the fresh section then stood in front of the bell peppers in utter confusion (paprika means bell pepper everywhere but in the States apparently).

AIRPORTS: 20
FLIGHTS: 19
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 12
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 141
CURRENCIES: 6

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Off to Nether, Netherland

After coincidentally arriving on 4/20 to spend 5 days in the Netherlands, I can only think of one words to describe this country – picturesque. There’s a feeling as if you’ve stepped back in time with the way the city centers of Leiden and Amsterdam are built on the banks of the river.

Personally, I think Amsterdam is overrated (unless you’re really into drug use and the prostitues). Granted, not all of Amsterdam can be judged by The Red Light District but in comparison to other European cities, I didn’t think it was anything special. I more so enjoyed my stay in Leiden with a co-worker and his family. It was wonderful to finally meet Koen who I was somehow able to develop a nice friendship with through the barriers of a remote company and a computer screen in the past three years. He is such an inspiring, kind human and his ladies (his partner and daughters) were so welcoming and full of life.

I liked seeing how people live here, the day to day. People are so kind to one another, very patient and helpful. I somehow survived steep stairs and bicycle lanes (even if you don’t think you’re in a bike lane, you probably are but don’t worry, the crazy bell dinging will let you know you are). Though, overall, the cars, bikes and pedestrians share the road very well.

Moments in Leiden:
-walking through the park with Koen near the house with Nikki, the family’s scruffy little maltese mix
-having dinner in the evenings with Koen’s family, witnessing their interactions, the genuine love and support they have for each other
renting a bicycle and riding around for hours… seeing windmills, an outdoor market, houses on canals, an abandoned industrial area and boutique shops along cobbled streets

Moments in Amsterdam:
Anne Frank House: I arrived half an hour before opening, waited 90 minutes in line and was about 15 minutes to the front when a woman offered me a free ticket with a 10am entry (if she hadn’t, I would have missed my walking tour at 11:15am!)… the museum was beautifully laid out and incredibly moving… walking past the bookcase and up the steep, narrow stairs as Anne had, stepping on creaky floor boards… it was chilling… A few weeks have passed and I have not yet written about my time in Auschwitz because I still can’t wrap my head around the horrors that occurred. I purchased a copy of the diary as it’s been some time since I’ve read it and I was really inspired by a quote from Emma Thompson they end the museum with, “All of her would-haves are our opportunities.”
NewEurope Walking Tour Highlights: Usually you can walk up without booking and have no issues but apparently that’s not the case in Amsterdam! The tour was full, but I was able to talk my way into ‘shadowing‘. We learned about the history of Amsterdam through politics and culture and as we walked passed Dam Square, the Old Church, the Red Light District, the Jewish Quarter, the Royal Palace, the Dutch East India Company, and the narrowest house in Amsterdam.
-I met two Indian doctor brothers from San Jose on the tour and we met up the next day at the Bulldog “Coffee Shop”. I was paranoid to order an iced coffee there but I luckily survived the experience. We strolled around the area bar hopping and met a man from Arkansas who I could not believe was real since he was such a stereotypical character, we actually had to ‘leave’ (then sneak back in and hide in the corner) to escape his booming voice and incessant talking. After this bar closed, we were directed to the San Francisco Bar (naturally I had to check in on Facebook to confuse my friends). When this bar closed (seriously, how many last calls did we have that night?), we were led to the only after hours bar in the area by the bouncer in a hostel that you had to ring a doorbell to enter. We sat for awhile then grabbed a road beer and strolled around until the trains re-opened.
-After a late night of drinking, I grabbed a pizza loaf at the train station for the walk home. I got three bites in when a huge seagull swooped over my shoulder and snatched the food from the bag as it was in my mouth. I let out a piercing scream in surprise, then stood cursing the bird for about two minutes. And people wonder why I hate birds.

Food Highlights:
-tasting a variety of Dutch cheeses at different shops
Café Sonneveld for a traditional Dutch meal of stamppot (mashed veggies and potatoes topped with gravy and served with meat)… I chatted over lunch with one of the tour guides
Village Bakery in Leiden where I and a delicious bagel sandwich and a huge cup of ‘slow coffee’
-I bought a traditional dutch pie for dessert, it had a rice filling as was surprisingly delicious!

Language Highlights:
-Thank you: dank je wel

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 11
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 139
CURRENCIES: 5

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Blossoming in Paris

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” -Aldous Huxley

I had braced myself after hearing numerous warnings of the rude manner of French people… but I have to say, I was met with nothing but kindness and warmth where ever I went. People have conceptions of other cultures… but let’s face it, there are assholes and angels in every country. You get back what you put into the world and into your interaction with the people in it.

Actually, the only semi-strange and certainly awkward experience I had was with an American through couch surfing but I luckily found a nice room through AirBnB close to the metro.

With limited time in Paris, I was a bit stressed in planning. I only had one 1/2 mornings before work (I arrived at the airport at 10am on Thursday), one full day and three evenings before an early train departure on Sunday. Before beginning this trip, I had said my mantra would be ‘whatever I do and see will be enough’. But then you arrive in these amazing cities and want to do absolutely everything. Paris is huge and brilliant with much to offer, I had to consider what I really wanted to see versus what every guidebook and traveler told me I must see.

Cory, a friend from high school who I hadn’t talked to in awhile messaged me, we chatted a bit about travel and she offered a sentiment that brought me back to my mantra, “Sending my love, and my courage, and my assurance that whatever you’re doing however you’re doing it is just the way you should be doing it, you’re doing more than enough, it’s okay.”

These words were just the reminder I needed to embrace each moment and do the things that would make me happy instead of killing myself trying to fit everything in. So, I climbed the Eiffel Tower… strolled the broad and narrow streets of different neighborhoods… spent an hour getting ready for a date with myself to the Moulin Rouge (after I enjoyed a warm bubble bath listening to Boyz II Men)….  ate pastries and sipped coffee in adorable cafes… While I feel I am leaving with some unfinished business in Paris, I can say that my time there was perfect and just as it should have been.

There was something about Paris that felt lonely to me… part of me wished I had a companion with me in these moments, the other part was grateful to have the courage to do them on my own and still have fun.

A former co-worker who I never got to meet in person (I work for a remote company) just happened to be in Paris. I was scrolling Instagram and saw a picture he posted right about my picture of the Louvre. He was leading a workshop on living a creative life and invited me to check it out… it was a perfect way to spend my last morning in Paris.

Not only did I get to finally get to put a face to Rico’s amazing energy, intellect and kindness, but I got to spend the morning with the synapses in my brain shooting off like lightening… meeting inspiring people from all walks of life.

Later that evening, I met up with some of the friends I’d made in the workshop for a drink (students at Stanford). We talked about family, life, travel, dreams, inspirations… One asked me what my overall lesson would be from my journey thus far. I had to pause a moment and think back to the night before and my thought process as I, alone, watched the lights twinkling on the Eiffel Tower at midnight. I said my biggest lesson so far would be to not let the fear of being alone stop you from doing or trying anything.

Moments in Paris:
Lizard Lounge: at Arnee’s suggestion I went to this supposedly wild and fun bar… I got there at 11:30pm and they had decided to close early so I snuck in one drink before catching the last train home… womp womp
even the toilet paper in Paris is fancy it’s pink!
-walking through Arc de Triomphe
-walking over 684 steps up Eiffel Tower
-strolling along Seine River
-passing through the Tuileries Garden and seeing the Louvre at night
Sandemann’s NewParis Walking Tour Highlights: My tour guide’s name was Justine and a woman I befriended on the tour was named Jackie! It was a cute coincidence that made me smile. I learned the history of kings, queens, torture, revolutions… saw the Saint Michel Fountain, the Notre Dame de Paris (and learned how Victor Hugo saved this church from destruction with his writing of the Hunchback of Notre Dame), the Palace of Justice, the prison where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before decapitation, Napoléon’s Tomb, the Académie Française, the Assemblée National, the Grand & Petit Palais, the Latin Quarter, the Pont Neuf, the Place de la Concorde, the Opéra Garnier, the Palais Royal, the Musée d’Orsay and an Obalesque.
-I walked down Champs-Elysées with Sophie and Tim, an awesome married couple from Sydney that I met on the tour
-I rushed to find the best viewing point of the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling light show, I started at Pont Alexander III (which was suggested on TripAdvisor as the best location) but then began walking toward it, feeling like I could find a better spot… which I did right before midnight!
-the beautiful La Saint Chapelle basilica, it was built in 13th century and has 15 high stained glass windows which make up most of the church
And the highlight of my time in Paris… taking myself on a date night to the Moulin Rouge!! This cabaret has been open since 1889 and was obviously made famous by the movie (“The greatest thing you’ll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return”). I saw the can can, phenomenal costumes, talented performances, beautiful sets, a woman dive into a pool that rose from the ground filled with 6 anacondas that she wrestled with, a couple on roller skates performing very dangerous, impressive stunt, incredible acrobatics anddddddd I was asked to come on stage where I performed in front of 850 people (literally my dream coming true, I can’t believe this is my life)!!!!

Food Highlights:
soup a l’oignon (french onion soup is my favorite soup)
Willi’s Wine Bar: cheese and wine
L’As Du Fallafel: the best falafel sandwich I’ve ever had… it was packed with falafel, pickled vegetables and roasted eggplant… I’m drooling just thinking about it (thanks Cameron and Adam for this suggestion!)
-morning coffee and a croissant overlooking the Seine
-lemon and sugar crepe
macaroons
-a quick lunch with my new Aussie friends at a seeming below after Middle Eastern restaurant that ended up being delicious (seriously why does Paris have the best falafel?)

Language Highlights:
Opulent (first time I’ve heard the word – it was used multiple times by many people when describing Paris): “ostentatiously costly and luxurious.”
-Hello: bonjour
-Thank you: merci
-Excuse me: excusez-moi
-Goodnight: bonsoir

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 9
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 134
CURRENCIES: 5

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