One year on the road.

One year ago today, on a rainy day in San Francisco, I packed all of my belongings in a 6x8x8 storage unit. I had no clue when I would be unpacking it, where or with who. I didn’t imagine that a year later, I’d still be traveling.

I have been living out of a backpack, traveling the U.S., Australia, and Europe for 12 months while working 40-60 hours a week in Pacific Coast hours. I have explored corners of the world and myself in ways I am still trying to understand. I have been invigorated and exhaustedinspired and discouraged…. enamored and lonely

I still haven’t had time to process it all, I’ve remained in a constant state of movement since I returned stateside in May… I have been flying or driving my SmartCar to visit friends in many cities, completing 5 more Tough Mudders and have started studying to become a certified personal trainer. There has been little rest, but a lot of love and learning.

I’m at a crossroads in my life, relationship and career… vulnerable and exposed in ways I’ve never felt before. I’ve learned to exist more peacefully in the proverbial ‘grey area‘ but it’s not been easy or something I’m entirely comfortable with.

I have a few more weeks of travel before I return to San Francisco on January 3rd to begin the next big adventure… finding home. I crave this stability. I cannot wait to return to my community there, I have traveled the world and realized that it is where I belong. It’s interesting what becomes clearer as the focus or lens changes. I’ll be unpacking and rooting in, creating routines and in some ways, beginning a new life in a familiar place. I’m walking the fine line between excited and terrified. 

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The Evolution of Schtuff

I traveled internationally for 4 months wearing a 45 liter pack on my back and a smaller backpack in the front through 15 countries. I had to be prepared for all climates – the nauseating heat of summer in Australia, the bitter cold of dead winter in Poland and Germany and the downpours of spring in Italy. I sent my ex-boyfriend back from Italy with a few extra items in his luggage and shipped a small package from Madrid a month before returning. I had posted a list of what I carried when I departed in January so I figured it was only appropriate to show what I returned with. Items in red were lost, broken or sent back to the states. Items in green were purchased along the way.

in 45 liter pack:
-1 pair of stylish boots – these got tossed in late April into a trash can in Leiden, Holland after quite literally being worn until disintegration
-1 pair of sneakers
-1 pair of black sandals purchased in a size too small (apparently they don’t have big footed women in Western Europe) in Lisbon to wear to the Moulin Rouge
-1 pair of black flip flops – these were tossed in the beginning of my trip in Australia to save space knowing I was headed into the winter months of Germany and Poland
-2 dresses (1 casual & 1 fancy) – I ended up with a different formal dress purchased in Lisbon for the Moulin Rouge after sending my ‘fancy’ dress back with Jon
-1 thin, stylish hoodie
-1 nice, outerwear jacket – this jacket ended up not being warm enough nor as waterproof as I thought and was replaced with a purple Northface in Rome
-1 cute cardigan sweater
-1 fashion scarf
-1 pair of jeans these jeans grew too big and were sent back with Jon – I bought a new pair of denim and a grey pair of pants in Florence – a pair bought in Berlin was shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of jeggings – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of shorts – sent back with Jon
-1 pair of capri pants – shipped back from Madrid
-1 pair of pajama pants purchased in Berlin
-1 Paddington Bear pajama set purchased in London
-1 fancy tank top – ruined during a laundry incident in Prague
-2 tanks tops / under shirts – shipped back from Madrid – replaced with 2 tank top bras from Lisbon
-1 long sleeve shirt – ruined in Prague – new one purchased in Lisbon
-2 blouses
-3 cotton blouses – 2 shirts ruined in Prague – replaced in Lisbon
-2 cotton t-shirts – 1 shirt ruined in Prague
-1 workout tank top
-1 sports bra
-1 tan bra
-1 bathing suit
-1 camping towel – sent back with Jon
-21 pairs of underwear – ended with 16 pairs of underwear
-14 pairs of socks
-1 reusable shopping bag for dirty laundry
-1 toiletry bag containing: deodorant, a razor with extra blades, shampoo, facewash, lotion, toothpaste, toothbrush, floss, QTips, tampons, nail file, prescribed anti-anxiety medication, comb, extra hair elastics, a headband, bobby pins, makeup and some jewelry
-1 blue hat haggled for in Rome – sent back with Jon
-2 pairs of earrings purchased in Seville
-1 bracelet gifted by a co-worker in Paris
-1 ring purchased in Florence
-1 trinket bracelet gifted to me in Galway
-1 new claddaugh ring purchased in Cork at Blarney Castle

in backpack:
-purse (containing ID, passport, hand sanitizer, sunglasses + wallet) – purse was destroyed – new one purchased in Seville – new sunglasses were also purchase in Florence and then again in London to replace lost pairs + 1 leather sunglass case purchased in Florence
-computer + charger for work
-iPad for work-phone + charger
-mobile phone charger purchased in Australia
-wall outlet adapter
-headphones
-sweet leather fanny pack – sent back with Jon
-leather journal – shipped back from Madrid
-hello / goodbye book for memories + notes from people I meet along my journey
-blank watercolor postcard – shipped back from Madrid
-watercolor travel kit – shipped back from Madrid
-1 reusable plastic water bottle – broke in Germany
-travel pillow purchased during layover in London on the way to Australia
-2 books from Amsterdam, 1 was purchased and 1 was gifted
-1 beautiful hand crocheted ping gifted to me in Germany – lost in Prague
– 1 book gifted to me in Poland  – sent back with Jon
-1 book gifted to me in Augsburg – re-gifted to a friend in Frankfurt
-1 small Astronomical table clock gifted to me in Prague – sent back with Jon
-artwork purchased on the streets of Prague and Venice – sent back with Jon
-stainless steel Italian espresso maker purchased in Venice – sent back with Jon
-personalized wax seal kit with gold wax given to me in Venice – sent back with Jon
-small trinkets and presents purchased through traveling (some stayed with me) – most sent back with Jon or shipped from Madrid
-4 chocolate bars purchased in Belgium
-37 pins purchased from each city visited in Australia and Europe
-1 of each coin in the 7 currencies I paid with
-1 CD purchased from a band playing in a park in Barcelona
-1 spoon – stolen in Germany – used to take selfies throughout Europe

Before
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After
packing after trip
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The unplanned journey, in review

When I purchased my tickets in October, I had no idea where the journey would take me. I started with a road trip to SoCal before returning to pack up my life in San Francisco. I spent 7 weeks visiting friends and family in the U.S. before flying to Australia to spend 2 1/2 weeks with a friend. I then did the most frightening thing I’ve ever done, I flew to Germany to begin 3 months of solo traveling in Europe where I had no plans. I worked a full time job in the evening to keep up with West Coast business hours hours, exploring each city in the day while planning my next move.

I traveled between 7 states and 15 countries on 3 continents. I made 5 stops in the U.S., 3 in Australia and 30 in Europe. I took 7 NewEurope Free Walking Tours, 6 paid tours, rented a bike in Holland and a car in Ireland (I drove on the other side of the road in the other side of the car!). I visited more museums and churches than I endeavor to count.

I spent money in 7 currencies., including the $4469.64 spent on 23 flights, 14 train rides and 4 buses over 154 days of traveling. I stayed with friends and friends of friends, couch-surfed in 4 cities and spent $934 on AirBnb room rentals (less than what I paid for 1 month’s rent in San Francisco). Including travel and accomodations, my monthly expenses were $289 less than they were in San Francisco!

It was a challenge for me to be without plans, it threw me completely out of my comfort zone but I’d say it was better than I ever could have organized. I went to some places I didn’t even have on my radar before I left for my trip.
10/19 – 11/2 SoCal (Ventura, LA and San Diego)
12/7 – 12/17 Washington, DC
12/17 – 12/28 Port Saint Lucie, Florida
12/28 – 1/4 Detroit, Michigan
1/4 – 1/29 Connecticut (plus a day trip to Rhode Island)
1/4 – 2/15 Australia (Sydney, Bondi & Melbourne)
2/15 – 3/5 Germany (Augsburg, Frankfurt & Berlin)
3/5 – 3/9 Poland (Warsaw, Krakow & Auschwitz)
3/9 – 3/13 Czech Republic (Prague & Kutna Hora)
3/13 – 3/28 Italy (Rome, Cinque Terre, Venice, Florence & Pisa)
3/28 – 4/11 Spain (Madrid, Seville & Barcelona)
4/11 – 4/16 Portugal (Lisbon, Cascais & Sintra)
4/16 – 4/19 France (Paris)
4/19 – 4/20 Belgium (Brussels)
4/20 – 4/24 The Netherlands (Leiden & Amsterdam)
4/24 – 4/26 Denmark (Copenhagen)
4/26 – 4/27 Scotland (Edinburgh)
4/27 – 5/3 Ireland (Cork, Dublin, Galway & Cliffs of Moher)
5/3 – 5/7 England (London)

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To the friends I met along the way

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”

-Tim Cahill

Through 15 different countries in 4 months of traveling, I met some truly incredibly people. Some I knew from home, some through friends of friends but most I was just lucky enough to cross paths with. People keep asking what my favorite country was… but really each place was special more so because of the people I met than by anything I toured, ate or experienced.

I cannot express enough the immense gratitude I feel for not just knowing all of you, but for the kindness and time you shared with me.

I have left pieces of my heart all over the world.

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London: The Final Countdown (da da ding ding ding)

Throughout four months of travel, I have been able to update my blog within two days of leaving a city even while working, enjoying the new destination and planning for the next. However, I’ve been back in Connecticut for almost three weeks and have been dragging my feet to write my ‘last’ blog post. Perhaps I was concerned that penning this entry would really cement that the trip is over?

It was a beautiful time to be in London… I was blessed with more perfect weather and everything seemed to fall right into place. Literally everything.

It was the perfect last stop as so many things came full circle and I got to meet up with many people I knew from home or traveling. It was a good ease back into not being alone anymore: I caught up with Ellie who I met at a bar in Venice in March… Tim who I met on a walking tour in Barcelona in April… Claire, another of my colleagues from my remote company… Connor, Jon’s co-worker and a good friend of ours who happens to be working in London for a few months…my favorite kiwi, Dean who I’d met in San Francisco when I first moved there 4 years ago… Angel, who I worked with at Outback Steakhouse ten years ago… and the stars aligned for Nicola and I to be together again in the last days of my trip which could not have been more poetic since I began this journey with her in Australia 4 months prior.

Angel and her husband, Andrew were incredible hosts. I barely knew Angel outside of work but always felt a strong connection with her. Catching up after a decade demonstrated that my intuition is usually correct. We had such a wonderful time chatting and laughing as if we’d grown up together and never spent a day apart. The irony of watching my former Outback co-worker get along so well with my Australian friend was not lost on me and was too heart-warming to put into words (but don’t worry, we have the pictures that are worth thousands of ‘em).

I think it will be awhile before I can really reflect on these four months as a whole. At the moment, it seems like a hazy dream…. something that happened to someone else in a different life. I’m home and it feels as if nothing AND everything has changed.

Moments in London:
-Staying with Angel and her husband, Andrew, in the apartments originally built for the athletes of the 2012 Olympics – London is setting a great example of what sustainability and community improvement for host countries can be like
-Walking along the Thames River with Connor to see the London Eye, Big Ben, Shakespeare’s Globe, St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Sky Garden and the Tower of London… we enjoyed a beer by the water then had lunch (where I was ID’ed to prove I was of legal drinking age which is 18 – score!) before I had to start work
-Surviving the central line, or Satan’s Asshole, as Andrew so aptly calls it for it’s depth under ground, horrendous, screeching sounds, packed cars and muggy heat
-After running up over 200 stairs and about a mile to the meeting location, Angel and I barely made it to Covent Garden in time for the walking tour to meet up with Tim
Highlights from Sandeman’s New Europe Walking Tour: Buckingham Palace (including the changing of the guards), Churchill’s War Cabinet Bunker, The House of Parliament, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Nelson’s Column, the Palace of Westminster and St. James’s Park where I saw a black swan (I never knew they really existed)!
-I learned what ‘hay fever‘ is by experiencing it’s madness with the blooming trees of London and the tiny, sharp pollen prickers that try to blind you (OUCH!)
-Meeting Claire and having just as much fun in person as we do on conference lines… we got coffee and walked through the Victorian Park
-Meeting Ellie for ‘a drink’ which turned into two bottles of wine over girl talk and a Coors while waiting for the train home
-Hanging out in the super hip Camden district with Angel and Nicola where we flipped through the racks of vintage clothing of the Stable Markets, checked out the Rave / Kink clothing in Cyderdog and dressed to the nines as Victorian badasses for old time-y photos (where we were a major, but entertaining pain in the ass)… we spent the entire afternoon shopping and giggling like we were in a 90’s montage
-Dean led the ladies on a long walk to the Camden Town Brewery for some fucking delicious brews, gave us the real science behind the ‘lock system’ for boat passage and then took us to Ye Olde Chesire Cheese (the oldest pub in London where we attempted to list all 50 states then had a TMI conversation with the last stragglers in the bar before closing)
-Buying matching Paddington Bear pajamas after walking around the mall with Nicola (I wish we had PriMark and especially Tiger in the States) then strolling through Hackney Wick, East London and the Ridley Road Market stopping for ciders and beers in each neighborhood
-Walking toward the Shoreditch neighborhood and witnessing a crazy scene of a woman running back and forth across a busy street, trying to fight two men with a baby in her arms… it’s good to know that dialing ‘9-1-1’ works anywhere thanks to the influence of American culture!
-Spending my last night in Europe with Connor… we had a beer a Waxy O’Connor’s (another fun theme bar), walked around the Theater district of Soho (which reminds me of Times Square), watched the street performers and ate dinner at Jamie Oliver’s diner (my food crush since 2001)

Food Highlights:
-Angel cooking British classics she learned from her mother in law including bangers and mash, English breakfast and scones with clotted milk and black currant jam
toffee crisp chocolate bar, England has some tasty candy
Shepard’s Pie with sweet potatoes and lentils
-the most delicious chicken shawarma wrap
Indian food takeout (so good) during a Disney movie night… London really is amazing for all cuisines
my last meal in Europe: bangers and mash with a proper pint at the airport

Language Highlights:
-making out: snogging
-crosswalk: zeh-bra crossing
-ping pong: whiff waff
-that’s crazy: that’s mental!
-the story behind the expression ‘a stiff drink’ involving a dead admiral in a brandy barrel and some thirsty sailors

AIRPORTS: 24
FLIGHTS: 22
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 15
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 154
CURRENCIES: 7

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Galway and the Cliffs of Moher, a breath of fresh air

“Bravery is the capacity to perform properly even when scared half to death.” –Omar Bradley

Gośka and I packed our bags on a rainy morning to hop on a bus to Galway to spend my last weekend in Europe together. We zoned out while listening to music through our headphones and snuggled under a hoodie sprawled over both of us for warmth as we drifted to sleep during the three hour journey.

I could feel as if my energy was noticeably different than when we’d first met 2 1/2 months prior in Poland. I was tired, growing weary of travel and becoming increasingly more anxious about returning back to the states where every aspect of my life was up in the airnot knowing what would become of my job, relationship and location. I have a small sense of home in each person I love but where will I call home? Where do I belong? How can I know what’s right for me now? And for the future? These thoughts circle in my head, wearing down on me constantly. Feeling so conflicted and torn, it is a constant effort to just breathe and exist in the grey area – to be okay with not having all the answers (something I have never been comfortable with).

For weeks, I had to wear a brave face to everyone I was meeting… feeling the need to be ‘on‘ all of the time. I sat with Gośka at dinner… quiet, unable to participate in even light conversation. I found myself apologizing for my energy and how crummy I was feeling. She paused and smiled… “Jackie, I’m happy just to be with you… any way you are.” A feeling of calm washed over me as my eyes welled up with years, I was accepted just as and who I was. Her words were simple yet profound and eloquent. In that acceptance, I began to snap out of my haze. We had a really nice evening exploring Galway, even in the rain. I could feel the lightness returning to me.

I was extremely nervous about hiring (that’s how they say ‘renting’ in Europe) a car for our trip to the Cliffs of Moher. Gośka was unable to drive due to an age minimum so if we wanted to see these cliffs, I had to get passed my fear.

The drive up was incredible – I got a whiff of both literal and figurative fresh air. It was supposed to rain all day (90% chance for each hour of that morning and early afternoon) but minus about 15 minutes of light rain, the sun was shining all day. Along the way, a song my grandmother used to sing, ‘Mellow Yellow‘ came on the radio… we stopped at the top of a hill to take in the views and I saw a post with my father’s initials on it… and on the way to the airport, I heard a new song by Paolo Nutini who my friend and I used to adore… I’m not sure what I believe but all these signs from loved ones who have passed just helped to further the sense of peace and destiny I was feeling. It was as if every moment of this day was meant to be – as it had felt when I first met Gośka in Warsaw – that feeling of absolute presence and gratitude.

When I saw the post with my father’s initials, I explained to Gośka what was making me smile and at that moment, the clouds parted and I could feel the warmth as the sun shone on my face. We stood there, just smiling and hugging. I took the opportunity to present her with a gift… a green bracelet (her favorite color) with a shamrock charm on it. I knew how special Ireland was to her and how special she was to me, I wanted her to have a trinket of our adventure together.

After a few hours of exploring the cliffs, we had gone as far as we could before realizing we had to turn around to have enough time for lunch and to make it to the airport. Gośka and I took a seat near the edge of a cliff to embrace these last moments… to soak it all in. She presented me with a gift… an orange bracelet (my favorite color) with two charms – a letter ‘J’ and a shamrock with her initial on one side and my lucky number, 23 on the other. I was astounded at the coincidence of our presents to each other. We laughed and hugged the entire walk back.

That feeling of being right where and who I was meant to be could not have been stronger that day. It was a reminder that no matter what is going on now, no matter what is to come… so long as I act in love and truth, I will always be okay.

Our goodbye was brief, she had an earlier flight than I did and due to misinformation of the gas station location from the car rental agent in Galway, our original plan of dropping the car off and walking into the airport together was shot. We hugged quickly and I sped away to find a place to fill the tank before returning the car with barely enough time for me to make it through security for my flight. In a way, I’m glad we didn’t have more time for goodbyes because I know I will see my Polish sister again… there was no reason to allow ourselves to feel any sadness.

Moments in Galway:
-Walking through the pouring rain through the Latin Quarter, Claddagh neighborhood and to the Spanish Arch
-Seeing the swans bobbing in the turbulent water
-Ducking in and out of pubs in search of the perfect place for a pint, I was particular excited to check out ‘Coyote Ugly
-After a few bars, we realized we’d rather relax and prepare for the day ahead – at home, we drank tea and cuddled up to watch ‘Dirty Dancing‘ as we drifted to sleep

Moments in the Cliffs of Moher:
-Driving on the opposite side of the road in the opposite side of the car in the tiny, windy road on the way (with no major incidents… ahem, only two minor ones)
-Sitting on the rocks overlooking Doolin Pier
-Stopping to see the bulls, cows and sheep along the sides of the road (the bull was especially amazing).
-Listening to Irish country music on the radio while driving through the beautiful countryside
-Hiking along the breathtaking cliffs, feeling as if I was Princess Buttercup along the Cliffs of Insanity (‘Princess Bride’ was filmed here)
-Picking up two hitchhikers on the route to the airport just for Gośka to prove to Sean that hitchhiking in Ireland is possible
-Attempting to pump gas in an old school station without a shut off and spilling diesel all over my hand.

Food Highlights:
-A simple and tasty lunch at a pub near our AirBnB
-I don’t eat seafood but I did love watching Gośka thoroughly enjoy her oyster and seafood chowder
Shepard’s Pie for my last dinner in Ireland

Language Highlights:
Sometimes the most powerful language you can learn is silence. Gośka and I shared several quiet moments this weekend, communicating everything and nothing at the same time.

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 4
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 148
CURRENCIES: 7

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Dublin: the randomness that brings us together

Two weeks ago, I posted on Facebook asking for any connections or advice people had for Denmark, Scotland and Ireland. Shantee, a high school classmate connected me to a guy she met while backpacking in South America who is from Dublin. Sean immediately started helping me plan the Ireland segment of my trip and offered a place to stay with him and his roommate, Cian. Being a traveler himself, Sean knew all the comforts I would appreciate and made sure they were available to me. I got to do laundry, take a hot shower and completely relax.

The day after my arrival, Gośka (my Polish friend through couch surfing) came to meet me. We planned out an amazing adventure for my last week in Europe – Ireland is very dear to her so it was the perfect place and timing to meet up again. I was grateful to not only be meeting up with a familiar face, but to be around a woman whose energy is just so contagious and radiant.

I love the random circumstances that bring people together. The lot of us discussed this often and deeply over several pints during my 4 days in Dublin (there really is a strong drinking culture here). We told many stories of travel, adventures, love, tom-foolery and heartbreak. It’s amazing to watch people from different cultures bond through experience.

Moments in Dublin:
-People watching with my morning coffee at the Grove Road. I met a nice guy named Brian who was telling me how we hopes to visit California so I doodled a little map of my favorite road trip down the Pacific Coast Highway with suggested stops.
-Learning of an important vote happening in Ireland on May 22nd that will determine marriage rights for gay couples. The propaganda for the ‘Vote No’ side was just absolutely absurd and infuriating. I will be checking in to see how this vote goes!
-Wandering down random alleys where I found great graffiti and interesting art pieces.
-Visiting the Trinity College campus (so beautiful) to see the Book of Kells (a book of gospels written in 800 A.D. on sheets made of calfskin with incredibly artistry into each page and letter) and the library in the Great Hall (where there was an awesome exhibit of myths in children’s literature). I talked my way into the student discount. 🙂
-Taking a photo in front of the Dublin Castle of which a green streak appeared (there was nothing green around and I’ve never had anything like that happen with photos on my iPhone before). Perhaps it was a Leprechaun? Or a sign from my Nonnie?
-A tour of the Guinness Storehouse: seeing the history of the factory, the production of the beer and their marketing / advertising over the years. There was a guided experience in the tasting chambers then I enjoyed a beer at the top of the factory in the Gravity Bar overlooking Dublin.
-Beers and pizza at Blackbird with Gośka, Sean and Cian. It was a huge bar with an outdoor patio, funky decorations and board games everywhere.
-Returning home for a few more beers and ending up in a dance party (jumping on the mattresses in the living room).
-Exploring Dublin with Gośka before headed to the tour at the Old Jameson Distillery where we learned about the history of the company, their triple distillation process and had a nice comparison tasting of Irish, Scotch and American whiskeys.
-After having a few more drinks, heading to the National Leprechaun Museum (where I was able to score another student discount) where we played and giggled like children while listening to Irish folklore.
-Beers at O’Neill’s to hear some live Irish music and step dancing (though, we couldn’t actually see it, but rather had to watch a screen of it going on in another part of the bar).

Food Highlights:
-Guinness and Jameson (still sticking with booze being a food group in Ireland)
Bangers and mash followed by Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake at The Porterhouse Brewing Co. (they had an amazing beer list)
Irish Coffee at the Boar’s Head Pub

Language Highlights:
-nap: kip
“ya bloody legend”
-cheers (good health): slainte
-awesome: “fucking class”
-making out: shifting
-from the Jameson label, learning that “sine metu” means ‘without fear’ in Latin

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 15
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 147
CURRENCIES: 7

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Tribute in Cork

I had my first major delay of the trip (not a bad track record with 21 flights and 14 trains under my belt). My flight to Cork kept being pushed back further and further due to technical delays. I was so worried that it was going to be cancelled and I would miss the only chance I had to go to Blarney Castle. Luckily, after 6 hours (and a few beers), I boarded the flight to Cork. I spent most of that time working and calling loved ones, unfortunately the delay meant I had to work until 2am after arriving at the AirBnb (I was also bummed about missing an entire day I could have spent in Edinburgh).

With 3 days (but only 1 full day after taking out time for work, arrival and departure), I had little time to explore but I was able to accomplish the most important thing I went there to dokissing the Blarney Stone.

The legend is that if you bend backward to kiss the Blarney Stone, you’ll be gifted great eloquence (the ability to be a smooth talker). My purpose in making this trek was less to receive the gift of gab (I mean, I’d say I’m pretty set in that department) and more to fulfill an unfulfilled dream of a loved one.

Growing up, my (very proud to be Irish) grandmother, Nonnie, would always talk about how one day we’d adventure to Ireland together to kiss the Blarney Stone and find our pot of gold. She passed away 9 years ago, leaving this dream behind. Yesterday, I climbed the winding, wobbly steps up Blarney Castle with tears in my eyes and her memory in my heart. I couldn’t believe I was really doing it…

I kissed the stone and found a quiet place in the Fern Garden by a waterfall to be completely alone and to let the tears flow. I wanted quiet space to embrace her memory and try to be fully present in the moment. I found a patch of clovers near by and buried the picture under it so that a part of her will always be in Ireland.

Every few years, my grandmother would give me a new claddagh ring (representing love, loyalty and friendship) as I outgrew them. When she passed, I had a tattoo done by a good friend of the family… this design has always held such power and significance in my life. In Blarney Castle, I purchased a new ring (ahem… obviously overpriced at the souvenir shop) to commemorate the moment, to act as a visual reminder of my journey and my inspiration to live with vigor and love.

A large part of the reason I was so compelled to endeavor on this journey is due to the lessons that the loss of my grandmother and other loves ones have taught me. This wisdomthe love of friends and familythe gratitude I feel each day… well, that’s my pot of gold. I am the richest girl in the world.

(I actually wrote a post almost two years ago about her and the story of her death which can be read by clicking this link.)

Moments in Cork:
-Hanging out at the AirBnb apartment with two cute pups named Spotty Dotty and Sir Dobby Dobson.
-Exploring the witch’s den, caves (I even hid from the rain in one!), tunnels (I’m glad I’m short because these spaces got very cramped), waterfalls, gardens (there was even a poison garden!) and trails on the grounds of the Blarney Castle. I got lost more times than I can count due to the unreliable, hard to follow map they provide. I slowly descended and ascended the wishing stairs backwards with my eyes closed in hopes that the witch will grant my wish (Irish folklore). I spent 3 hours wandering but could have easily spent all day here, it was so beautiful.
-Walking through the city center and popping into a few quirky shops.
-Literally ‘lol’ing the humor in the signs and advertisement.
-Working in the afternoon with a view of the Shandon tower and the city of Cork in front of me.

Food Highlights:
O’Conaill’s for hot chocolate
Beef and Guinness stew at the Woodford

Language Highlights:
-I said ‘Huh?’ more times than I can count before I just nodded and smiled (my go to when I don’t understand what the hell someone is saying).

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 144
CURRENCIES: 7

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Edinburgh, you had me at hello

The second I arrived in Edinburgh, I immediately regretted not having more time there. It has a very different vibe then all the previous cities I have been to… the architecture, stone work, green grass and store fronts are unreal. I took more pictures in my 26 hours in Edinburgh than I have in most countries I spent 4-6 days in. 

The people (though difficult to understand… really, is this English?) were incredibly kind and helpful every where I went. I felt at home. This is one of the few places I have visited that I really, really cannot wait to visit again (or maybe I should never leave?!). It was hard to get used to cars on the left side of the road again (and remembering to stay to the left while walking, I just kept getting in everyone’s way and almost got hit a few times) but it was so nice to see advertisement, signs and menus in English after 2 1/2 months!

I have 13 days left of this adventure, which I have mixed feelings about. Work is more stressful than ever (I am now the sole production manager of my company ) so that has been weighing on me a lot. It will be nice to not have to make the most out of every single second in the day to balance full time work and traveling, but I’m not sure what I’ll do with all my free time (probably go crazy)! I’ll be happy to see friends and family, but I’m nervous about returning after four months of traveling on my own. This adventure has required an entirely different mindset and truthfully, it has changed me. How can I figure out what my next steps are? What will make me happy? What will allow me to balance my need to lay roots down with my desire to blow with the wind? I’m doing my best to concentrate on the moment and not what will happen or where I will live when I get back to the States but it is a constant drain of energy to refocus my thinking. Welcome to the brain of an OCD, over-thinking Virgo!

Moments in Edinburgh:
-I walked up and down the Royal Mile, passing the Saint Giles Cathedral and absolutely incredible buildings and cute stores.
-I spent two hours in Edinburgh Castle which was built on a 700 million year old extinct volcano, parts of the castle itself have existed since the 12th century though people have inhabited the rock since 850 BC. There are so many museums (including a war museum with a beautiful photo exhibit of Scottish soldiers in Afghanistan during the last decade) and areas to explore here with breath taking views of Edinburgh.
-I thought San Francisco had finicky weather, but when I walked to the castle I was warm in a t-shirt then freezing and being hailed on within an hour!
-At the recommendation of the bartender, I enjoyed a pint of hard cider at the Jolly Judge while I let my phone charge.
-I couldn’t pass up the opportunity for a themed bar when I walked by a huge statue of Frankenstein so I decided to go in for dinner and as a true testament to my own luck, they happened to have karaoke voted ‘the best in Edinburgh’ on Sunday nights. The bar itself was pretty awesome, they even have a Frankenstein Lager locally brewed just for them which was quite tasty. At one point, Frankenstein was lowered from the ceiling and ‘came to life’. It was kitschy and trashyright up my alley! I found a group of friends that can only be described as ‘my kind of people’ and we sang and danced until I had to leave for my ghost tour (I actually stayed later than anticipated because I had originally wanted to check out some live Scottish music that was happening but I was having too much fun).
-Testing my nerves on the City of the Dead tour as we explored the Underground City, the part of the South Bridge Vaults known as Damnation Alley, Greyfriar’s Graveyard and the Covenanter’s prison. We learned a ‘wee bit‘ of history and heard ghost stories of the South Bridge Entity and the Mackenzie Poltergeist. I luckily had made friends with two ladies from Chicago so I had a hand to squeeze in the darkness!
-I brought my new friends back to the Frankenstein bar… the bartenders and KJ had asked where I went and were happy to have my back… 6 hours in Edinburgh and I was already a regular at a karaoke bar! We had some scotch and beer, dancing and singing some more. After, we had a nightcap at a bar nearby followed by some ridiculously expensive pizza before I walked home around 4am.
Observations: The lyrics in all 3 songs I sang were different in Scotland than when I have sung them in the states. I have no idea why. Isn’t that strange?? Also, every single bathroom I went in to had a condom dispensing machine… not sure what to make of that either!

Food Highlights:
Scotch. That’s a food group, right?

Language Highlights:
-Instead of saying ’little’, I noticed the Scots say ‘wee bit’… As I’m ‘I’m just a wee bit knockered’ (I’m only slightly drunk).

AIRPORTS: 21
FLIGHTS: 20
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 13
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 142
CURRENCIES: 7

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New ‘Old’ friends in Copenhagen

Copenhagen was not originally on my traveling list, but I met really fun people on a bar crawl in Berlin who invited me to check it out. Sadly, they were away the weekend I would be able to visit but I booked three days anyway.

Fortunately when I was in Seville, Spain three weeks ago, my couch surfing host and I popped into this seedy little bar where we met an awesome couple, a Norwegian girl and a Finnish guy, who happen to live in Copenhagen! They invited me to come and stay with them… an offer I gladly accepted.

It was a really nice weekend with Veronica and Marko… relaxing and familiar. I felt like I was hanging out with old friends. With the exception of 3 days in my last 2 weeks of this journey, I will be meeting up with friends. After weeks of traveling alone, I’m looking forward to this comfort… it will be a nice way to prepare for my return to the States.

On the morning of my departure, one of the friends (Sapna, an American student) I met in Berlin happened to be arriving. I went four hours early to the airport to sit and have breakfast with her. I met her at beginning of my Eurotrip, so it was nice to catch up with her after we’ve both been traveling for two months.

I am grateful for my global community. 🙂

Moments in Copenhagen:
-trying to figure out the denominations of the Danish Kroner… most certainly the prettiest coins (p.s. Copenhagen is SO expensive)
-walking around the neighborhood with Marko, passing the Tivoli Gardens and funky buildings
-strolling the beach with Veronica to check out the 14 mile bridge that connects Denmark and Sweden over the ocean (but it was too foggy to see it)
-walking through the park and seeing interesting new takes on sports… bubble futbol, land paddling, windsurfing go-karts and futbol golf
-passing the Marble Church, the Queen’s Palace and the Royal Theater on the way to the Little Mermaid
-seeing the Little Mermaid with the pin a good friend, Jessica gave me at the beginning of this journey
-on the way back, finding a Japanese festival under the cherry blossoms with people dressed as anime characters, sumo wrestling and karaoke… also food, beer and art from Japan
-visiting Christiania, the ‘free state’ in Copenhagen… basically what I imagine Burning Man would be like if people could live there year round
-reading the synopsis of the original Little Mermaid by Hans Christian Andersen (it’s pretty fucking twisted) while drinking beers in the ‘Green Light District’

Food Highlights:
-Having an al fresco lunch at a vegetarian buffet in Christiana.
-On a cold, rainy night, I decided to make homemade baked mac and cheese after I’d heard Veronica and Marko had never had it (it’s also my favorite food which I haven’t had in 5 months). Unfortunately, bread crumbs here are used to bake and not cook so the crusty layer on top was a bit sweet and threw the dish off but it was still delicious in its gooey glory.

Language Highlights:
-A mix up of language at the grocery store when asking for ‘paprika’ and was brought to the fresh section then stood in front of the bell peppers in utter confusion (paprika means bell pepper everywhere but in the States apparently).

AIRPORTS: 20
FLIGHTS: 19
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 12
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 141
CURRENCIES: 6

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Off to Nether, Netherland

After coincidentally arriving on 4/20 to spend 5 days in the Netherlands, I can only think of one words to describe this country – picturesque. There’s a feeling as if you’ve stepped back in time with the way the city centers of Leiden and Amsterdam are built on the banks of the river.

Personally, I think Amsterdam is overrated (unless you’re really into drug use and the prostitues). Granted, not all of Amsterdam can be judged by The Red Light District but in comparison to other European cities, I didn’t think it was anything special. I more so enjoyed my stay in Leiden with a co-worker and his family. It was wonderful to finally meet Koen who I was somehow able to develop a nice friendship with through the barriers of a remote company and a computer screen in the past three years. He is such an inspiring, kind human and his ladies (his partner and daughters) were so welcoming and full of life.

I liked seeing how people live here, the day to day. People are so kind to one another, very patient and helpful. I somehow survived steep stairs and bicycle lanes (even if you don’t think you’re in a bike lane, you probably are but don’t worry, the crazy bell dinging will let you know you are). Though, overall, the cars, bikes and pedestrians share the road very well.

Moments in Leiden:
-walking through the park with Koen near the house with Nikki, the family’s scruffy little maltese mix
-having dinner in the evenings with Koen’s family, witnessing their interactions, the genuine love and support they have for each other
renting a bicycle and riding around for hours… seeing windmills, an outdoor market, houses on canals, an abandoned industrial area and boutique shops along cobbled streets

Moments in Amsterdam:
Anne Frank House: I arrived half an hour before opening, waited 90 minutes in line and was about 15 minutes to the front when a woman offered me a free ticket with a 10am entry (if she hadn’t, I would have missed my walking tour at 11:15am!)… the museum was beautifully laid out and incredibly moving… walking past the bookcase and up the steep, narrow stairs as Anne had, stepping on creaky floor boards… it was chilling… A few weeks have passed and I have not yet written about my time in Auschwitz because I still can’t wrap my head around the horrors that occurred. I purchased a copy of the diary as it’s been some time since I’ve read it and I was really inspired by a quote from Emma Thompson they end the museum with, “All of her would-haves are our opportunities.”
NewEurope Walking Tour Highlights: Usually you can walk up without booking and have no issues but apparently that’s not the case in Amsterdam! The tour was full, but I was able to talk my way into ‘shadowing‘. We learned about the history of Amsterdam through politics and culture and as we walked passed Dam Square, the Old Church, the Red Light District, the Jewish Quarter, the Royal Palace, the Dutch East India Company, and the narrowest house in Amsterdam.
-I met two Indian doctor brothers from San Jose on the tour and we met up the next day at the Bulldog “Coffee Shop”. I was paranoid to order an iced coffee there but I luckily survived the experience. We strolled around the area bar hopping and met a man from Arkansas who I could not believe was real since he was such a stereotypical character, we actually had to ‘leave’ (then sneak back in and hide in the corner) to escape his booming voice and incessant talking. After this bar closed, we were directed to the San Francisco Bar (naturally I had to check in on Facebook to confuse my friends). When this bar closed (seriously, how many last calls did we have that night?), we were led to the only after hours bar in the area by the bouncer in a hostel that you had to ring a doorbell to enter. We sat for awhile then grabbed a road beer and strolled around until the trains re-opened.
-After a late night of drinking, I grabbed a pizza loaf at the train station for the walk home. I got three bites in when a huge seagull swooped over my shoulder and snatched the food from the bag as it was in my mouth. I let out a piercing scream in surprise, then stood cursing the bird for about two minutes. And people wonder why I hate birds.

Food Highlights:
-tasting a variety of Dutch cheeses at different shops
Café Sonneveld for a traditional Dutch meal of stamppot (mashed veggies and potatoes topped with gravy and served with meat)… I chatted over lunch with one of the tour guides
Village Bakery in Leiden where I and a delicious bagel sandwich and a huge cup of ‘slow coffee’
-I bought a traditional dutch pie for dessert, it had a rice filling as was surprisingly delicious!

Language Highlights:
-Thank you: dank je wel

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 11
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 139
CURRENCIES: 5

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Indulgence in Brussels

I decided to pop into Brussels for a quick day visit on my way from Paris to the Netherlands, purely to eat as much as fucking possible and enjoy some of the best things in life… beer, chocolate and fries. I got lucky with a beautiful, sunshine filled day in their rainy season.

I arrived at 11am, dropped my stuff off at the AirBnb apartment and set off on an adventure. I love how small and easy to walk Brussels is and how the cars actually stop for pedestrians (a first I’ve experience in Europe). I enjoyed the friendliness of the Belgian culture and the cute shops in cobbled alleys.

I took another walking tour as a way to get an overview of the city and met a group of friends from the UK and an Austrian who would become my partners in crime for the rest of the day.

After a quick rest, we met back up for dinner and drinks. The night was closing in and I still hadn’t eaten frites. I went in search of them and found Smile-oke, a karaoke bar. I bought some frites and went back to Delirium to ask my new friends how much they trusted me and if they were down for an adventure… They were in. When 9 white people walk into a small, dimly lit bar full of Vietnamese business men doing lines of coke, you know it promises to be an interesting evening. We started putting our songs in and soon even the patrons were singing in English along with us. I had originally planned for it to be an early night but that never really happens, does it? Things gradually got stranger and we decided to head home, but that didn’t stop the singing… Sarah and I sang All Saints and Cher as we strolled through the main square and in the streets in search of a cab. I got home around 4:30am and enjoyed the 3 hours of sleep I was able to squeeze in before my train left. It was one of my favorite days of this trip. It was nice to be with group that felt like my crew back home… vulgar (in all the best ways), spontaneous and fun… I laughed all day.

Moments in Brussels:
-cramming my way through a huge flea market outside of the train station with two backpacks on
-stopping at Jat, an adorable coffee house where I purchased an ice coffee to sip on while I walked through Brussels Park
-seeing the Manneken Pis, a fountain of small Dutch boy peeing (the Belgian have good senses of humor!)
Highlights from the Sandemann’s New Brussels Walking Tour: learning about the comic art history and scene including TinTin… hearing the history and culture of Belgium… seeing the Grand Place, Town Hall, Maison du Roi, The Stock Exchange, Galeries Saint Hubert, The Monnaie Opera, St Nicolas’ Church, the River Senne, the The Royal Square and the Mont des Arts

Food Highlights:
-sampling tasty house made truffles from Chocopolis (where I purchased 5 bars that I’ll somehow have to make it through 3 weeks of travel without eating)
-grabbing a warm waffle topped with whipped cream and Nutella (I asked the girl to make her favorite for me, it was a great choice)… thanks for the tip, Adam! I actually had to find a side alley to massacre this waffle, my face and hands were covered in Nutella
-dining with my new friends and having our patience tested as we waited over an hour for Middle Eastern food which was at least tasty (or maybe we were just starving?)… I was able to convince the man to give us free espresso
frites… deliciously fried twice… with a spicy mayo sauce
Delirium, a local brewery that has hundreds of beers (I have always loved their brews and was so excited to go there!)

Language Highlights:
-I can’t say I learned even a bit of Dutch or any more French, but I did sing in Vietnamese… that has to count for something, right?

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 12
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 10
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 135
CURRENCIES: 5

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Blossoming in Paris

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” -Aldous Huxley

I had braced myself after hearing numerous warnings of the rude manner of French people… but I have to say, I was met with nothing but kindness and warmth where ever I went. People have conceptions of other cultures… but let’s face it, there are assholes and angels in every country. You get back what you put into the world and into your interaction with the people in it.

Actually, the only semi-strange and certainly awkward experience I had was with an American through couch surfing but I luckily found a nice room through AirBnB close to the metro.

With limited time in Paris, I was a bit stressed in planning. I only had one 1/2 mornings before work (I arrived at the airport at 10am on Thursday), one full day and three evenings before an early train departure on Sunday. Before beginning this trip, I had said my mantra would be ‘whatever I do and see will be enough’. But then you arrive in these amazing cities and want to do absolutely everything. Paris is huge and brilliant with much to offer, I had to consider what I really wanted to see versus what every guidebook and traveler told me I must see.

Cory, a friend from high school who I hadn’t talked to in awhile messaged me, we chatted a bit about travel and she offered a sentiment that brought me back to my mantra, “Sending my love, and my courage, and my assurance that whatever you’re doing however you’re doing it is just the way you should be doing it, you’re doing more than enough, it’s okay.”

These words were just the reminder I needed to embrace each moment and do the things that would make me happy instead of killing myself trying to fit everything in. So, I climbed the Eiffel Tower… strolled the broad and narrow streets of different neighborhoods… spent an hour getting ready for a date with myself to the Moulin Rouge (after I enjoyed a warm bubble bath listening to Boyz II Men)….  ate pastries and sipped coffee in adorable cafes… While I feel I am leaving with some unfinished business in Paris, I can say that my time there was perfect and just as it should have been.

There was something about Paris that felt lonely to me… part of me wished I had a companion with me in these moments, the other part was grateful to have the courage to do them on my own and still have fun.

A former co-worker who I never got to meet in person (I work for a remote company) just happened to be in Paris. I was scrolling Instagram and saw a picture he posted right about my picture of the Louvre. He was leading a workshop on living a creative life and invited me to check it out… it was a perfect way to spend my last morning in Paris.

Not only did I get to finally get to put a face to Rico’s amazing energy, intellect and kindness, but I got to spend the morning with the synapses in my brain shooting off like lightening… meeting inspiring people from all walks of life.

Later that evening, I met up with some of the friends I’d made in the workshop for a drink (students at Stanford). We talked about family, life, travel, dreams, inspirations… One asked me what my overall lesson would be from my journey thus far. I had to pause a moment and think back to the night before and my thought process as I, alone, watched the lights twinkling on the Eiffel Tower at midnight. I said my biggest lesson so far would be to not let the fear of being alone stop you from doing or trying anything.

Moments in Paris:
Lizard Lounge: at Arnee’s suggestion I went to this supposedly wild and fun bar… I got there at 11:30pm and they had decided to close early so I snuck in one drink before catching the last train home… womp womp
even the toilet paper in Paris is fancy it’s pink!
-walking through Arc de Triomphe
-walking over 684 steps up Eiffel Tower
-strolling along Seine River
-passing through the Tuileries Garden and seeing the Louvre at night
Sandemann’s NewParis Walking Tour Highlights: My tour guide’s name was Justine and a woman I befriended on the tour was named Jackie! It was a cute coincidence that made me smile. I learned the history of kings, queens, torture, revolutions… saw the Saint Michel Fountain, the Notre Dame de Paris (and learned how Victor Hugo saved this church from destruction with his writing of the Hunchback of Notre Dame), the Palace of Justice, the prison where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before decapitation, Napoléon’s Tomb, the Académie Française, the Assemblée National, the Grand & Petit Palais, the Latin Quarter, the Pont Neuf, the Place de la Concorde, the Opéra Garnier, the Palais Royal, the Musée d’Orsay and an Obalesque.
-I walked down Champs-Elysées with Sophie and Tim, an awesome married couple from Sydney that I met on the tour
-I rushed to find the best viewing point of the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling light show, I started at Pont Alexander III (which was suggested on TripAdvisor as the best location) but then began walking toward it, feeling like I could find a better spot… which I did right before midnight!
-the beautiful La Saint Chapelle basilica, it was built in 13th century and has 15 high stained glass windows which make up most of the church
And the highlight of my time in Paris… taking myself on a date night to the Moulin Rouge!! This cabaret has been open since 1889 and was obviously made famous by the movie (“The greatest thing you’ll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return”). I saw the can can, phenomenal costumes, talented performances, beautiful sets, a woman dive into a pool that rose from the ground filled with 6 anacondas that she wrestled with, a couple on roller skates performing very dangerous, impressive stunt, incredible acrobatics anddddddd I was asked to come on stage where I performed in front of 850 people (literally my dream coming true, I can’t believe this is my life)!!!!

Food Highlights:
soup a l’oignon (french onion soup is my favorite soup)
Willi’s Wine Bar: cheese and wine
L’As Du Fallafel: the best falafel sandwich I’ve ever had… it was packed with falafel, pickled vegetables and roasted eggplant… I’m drooling just thinking about it (thanks Cameron and Adam for this suggestion!)
-morning coffee and a croissant overlooking the Seine
-lemon and sugar crepe
macaroons
-a quick lunch with my new Aussie friends at a seeming below after Middle Eastern restaurant that ended up being delicious (seriously why does Paris have the best falafel?)

Language Highlights:
Opulent (first time I’ve heard the word – it was used multiple times by many people when describing Paris): “ostentatiously costly and luxurious.”
-Hello: bonjour
-Thank you: merci
-Excuse me: excusez-moi
-Goodnight: bonsoir

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 9
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 134
CURRENCIES: 5

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Lisbon: beautiful melancholy

Lisbon is indescribably beautiful the foliage, the architecture, the people, the water, the parks, the culture.

Portugal was not originally on my traveling list, but my couch surfing host (and now good friend) in Poland, Goska, insisted I must see Lisbon. Two of her friends, Jorge and Carla, took me in without hesitation… even taking time off work in the 5 days I was here to show me around.

They knew my work schedule and created an itinerary so that each day I could see the best parts of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. It was such a relief to have a break in planning and decision making! I am in such awe at the overwhelming kindness and generosity of ‘strangers’ I have experienced on this trip.

I’m going to call Lisbon the sister city of San Francisco. They have two bridges into the city just like SF which even look like the Golden Gate and the Bay Bridge. They have big hills and cable cars, which I rode for the first time (never did that in 4 years of living in SF!). Being close to the ‘end’ of this journey, with my heart longing for SF, it was nice to feel so close to home even far away.

On my first evening, I experienced fado over dinner and drinks with Carla, Jorge and two of their friends.

“Fado is a music genre which can be traced to the 1820s in Portugal, but probably with much earlier origins… fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia. This is loosely captured by the Portuguese word saudade, or ‘longing’, symbolizing a feeling of loss (a permanent, irreparable loss and its consequent lifelong damage). “ “Whatever its origins its themes have remained constant: destiny, betrayal in love, death and despair. A typical lyric goes: ‘Why did you leave me, where did you go? I walk the streets looking at every place we were together, except you’re not there.’”

To see men and women walking in from the street (or even from the kitchen as two cooks did) to sing songs of pain and loss… to hear the genuine sorrow as they sang… it was moving and beautiful. It’s not often that the sadness in life is given such a public place. As my friend Niki put it, “It is also part of the Portuguese culture to speak of the good with the bad rather than the rose colored version of life americans share… beautiful.”

In Lisbon, I was able to embrace my own sadness in a different way. There is a constant ache in my chest, my heart more confused than ever… I continue to battle with the sadness and longing… torturing myself with the playback of events and analyzation of the people we became at the end of our relationship, of the hurt we have caused each other. I know I have to let go (at least of the control in having to know what the future holds) but I’m incapable of existing in the unknown. Lisbon taught me that I can create it a space for it in my life, without letting it consume me.

Moments in Lisbon:
-fado and dinner at Taberna A Baiuca Alfama which ended with the entire restaurant breaking into dance for last song
-the gorgeous stone design on the streets all over Lisbon but especially Rossio Square
-the Cais das Colunas representing where the ships would dock
-seeing a smaller version of the Christ in Rio (a gift from Brazil to Portugal), remembering the fun time I had climbing to the top with my best girls
-the train ride to Cascais (it’s listed as top 10 most beautiful in Europe)
Cascais: the beach, the harbor and the Boca do Inferno (mouth of hell) chasm in the cliffs there
-The president’s ‘pink’house and the garden in front of it
-a huge monastery from 13th century
Belem Tower: “the last landmark explorers saw as they sailed out of Lisbon to ‘discover’ unknown parts of the world”
-the war memorial with an eternal flame and soldiers marching and saluting
-visiting the midevil town of Sintra where the flowers were in full bloom and you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time
-exploring the massive area of La Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra… we saw a waterfall, a grotto, a park, a mansion, a tower, a small church, a deep well, the fountain of abundance… we walked through dark tunnels and saw flowers I’ve never seen including so much wild lilac which I could not stop breathing in
-laughing at a police dog training in the park who had no interest in doing as he was supposed to
-taking a ride on the sky tram (which they call a cable car here) with Carla
-walking an avenue of monuments (so many more beautiful statues of strong women) with Jorge on my last day and finding the perfect dress for the Moulin Rouge on Saturday for only 18 euro (after hunting 3 malls and 2 shopping strips in 2 countries)!
-luckily missing (again) a train strike right before I came and another starting the day I left (I took a cab because of the early departure time)
-The security at the Lisbon airport tore through every inch of my tightly packed luggage (due to very strict Ryanair policies on size), I then had to argue with them to not take away the small lotion container I’ve traveled through 17 airports with (which they did anyway)… Apparently my sensual amber scent is a threat to national security. I later realized my fly was down the whole time. And my fly was down the whole time, which I only now realized. I bargained with him to let me empty the lotion into one of their plastic bags (which looks disgusting by the way). I then asked for my empty container back since it was now just an empty container. He said I was a ‘tricky girl‘ and wouldn’t give it to me… I’d still like to think I won this battle.

Food highlights:
porto as an apertiff
despite an extreme distaste for seafood, I ate octopus and tuna
-with the Brazilian influence in Lisbon, I was able to enjoy some of my favorite treats: coxinha, pao de quiejo, brigadeiro and gaurana
Pastéis de Belém: small custard pastries that have been made the same way in this restaurant since 1837
queijada and travesseiro pastries in Sintra
ginja, sour cherry liquor in a chocolate cup / shot that you ate afterward
-a deliciously typical Portuguese dinner with meats I could not distinguish and didn’t want to attempt to (despite some not so pleasant company)
flank steak topped with a sunny side up egg… I’ll be using this recipe when I get back!

Languages highlights:

Saudade: “It describes a deep emotional state of nostalgic or profound melancholic longing for an absent something or someone that one loves. Moreover, it often carries a repressed knowledge that the object of longing may never return. Saudade was once described as “the love that remains” after someone is gone. Saudade is the recollection of feelings, experiences, places or events that once brought excitement, pleasure, well-being, which now triggers the senses and makes one live again. It can be described as an emptiness, like someone (e.g., one’s children, parents, sibling, grandparents, friends, pets) or something (e.g., places, things one used to do in childhood, or other activities performed in the past) that should be there in a particular moment is missing, and the individual feels this absence. It brings sad and happy feelings all together, sadness for missing and happiness for having experienced the feeling.”

AIRPORTS: 17
FLIGHTS: 17
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 8
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 131
CURRENCIES: 5

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Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

The best part of traveling alone is that you can decide how “lonely” that can be. I get to choose when I feel like being alone (without hurting anyone’s feelings) and can easily make new friends when I need company.

I had a week in Barcelona to have the space I needed for thinking and the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people when I wanted to be. I enjoyed the ‘tourist’ attractions earlier in the week but by the end, I simply enjoyed ‘living’ in Barcelona. I think that’s the best part of traveling, when you just feel at home wherever you are.

On my last day in Barcelona, I actually had to spend a few hours re-uploading all the pictures in this blog dating back to when it was created two years ago (I made in error in thinking I could delete the archive on WordPress). There was actually something quite beautiful in having to go back to the beginning and reading my thought process before this journey. Nearing the end of this trip, I can’t imagine that it could have been more perfect to be almost forced into reviewing where I started from. I remembered the choice I made to be happy… The choice I made to begin this adventure… I remembered that you do choose in life… even if your only choice is a matter of perception in your reality.

Moments in Barcelona:
-I got very lucky with a beautiful apartment and a kind couchsurfing host… I met my Ray (a 44 year old Frenchman) at the bar he was at with friends to get the keys before heading to the apartment… I did not expect to open the door to a four story house with marble floors, an elevator, a huge patio, a rooftop terrace with beautiful views of the city, a sauna and a maid
-meeting Jan (from Barcelona), Sully (from Boston) and Anny (from Colombia) through couchsurfing… Jan picked us up and took us to Magic, a classic rock bar where we enjoyed tequila sunrises and chatted until very late in the evening… I even ran into another guy that I had chatted with on the site when I was looking for a host (small world as always)
-being a bit sad to be missing Easter traditions with my friends in San Francisco, I had a lovely solo brunch of albondigas con juevos y una cerveza (Spanish meatballs with eggs and a beer)
-after an unsuccessful attempt to meet up with Sully and Anny, I strolled the enormous and beautiful Parc Güell by myself on Easter Sunday… touring Antoni Gaudi’s house and finding Los Sobrino, a string quartet, playing a cover of ‘Firework’ by Katy Perry (I was actually so impressed that I bought their CD)
-catching up with the ladies for tapas and hilarious conversation that I didn’t quite understand but caught the gist of with the waiters
-breathing the fresh Mediterranean Sea air at the beach (even if it was slightly chilly)
Sangria on the beach followed by a dinner of tasty tapas with my new friends
El Bosc de Les Fades: a very well decorated fairy tthemed bar that makes you feel like you are in the forest
-meeting up with Sully at the Plaza Espanya and walking around the National Art Museum of Catalonia, an incredible building with enormous fountains
-having lunch on top of the old bullfighting arena which is now a mall (bullfighting is illegal in Barcelona)
-highlights from Sandemann’s NewEurope walking tour: learning the history of Barcelona and Catalonia and the reason behind their quest for independence from Spain, walking through the beautiful plazas, the structure  dedicated to the Castilleres who climb on each other’s shoulders to reach great heights, Gaudi’s fountain, the Arc del Triomf, a dash of Picasso art and the beautiful mosaics of brightly colored Spanish tiles
-lunch and chit chat with my new friends from the tour: Jess from France, Q from New York and Tim from Australia
-highlights from the Sandemann’s NewEurope Gaudi and Moderisme tour: learning of Gaudi’s life, the tiles lining Passeig de Gràcia from Gaudi’s design, houses from the Modernsime era (and the funny stories behind some of the decor), Gaudi’s Casa Battló (telling the story of Saint Jordi’s battle with the dragon to save the virgin princess), Gaudi’s Casa Milà (the last private house he worked on, a huge inspiration for George Lucas creating Star Wars) and more
-touring the inside of La Sagrada Família… it began construction in 1882 and is still a work in progress, Gaudi began his life’s work when he was 31 years old and worked on it until his tragic death 43 years later… this church is the definition of ‘epic’, every inch of it is grand and has meaning behind it… the way the light floods in is breathtaking, I look forward to visiting in 20 or so years when it’s completed
appreciating the symbolism and beauty in architecture in a way that I honestly never did before
-seeing more 23’s 🙂
-the beautiful view of the city and the construction on La Sagrada Família from the passion facade tower
-hunting for a perfect dress for my Moulin Rouge evening in Paris in a really alternative and funky neighborhood that I couldn’t figure out the name of… there were great vintage stores and awesome record shops
-getting a permanent souvenir from this trip, a beautiful peacock feather from Chiara Pina at LTW Tattoo (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me – I’ll post about this later)
-window shopping along La Rambla and in the windy streets along the edges of this area
-finding the St. Joseph Mercat – La Bouqueria, an amazing farmer’s market
-having a few beers and discussing the key to happiness with Jan at an Irish bar (Michael Collins) that had a great 90’s cover band

Food highlights:
-potato and beef stew at El Pollo Rico, a recommendation from Josh
-so many empanadas, some traditional and some unique
-bread with garlic and smushed tomato (very common in Barcelona, simple but tasty)
murros: fried pig nose (basically like pork grinds)
-deep fried cream cheese balls at Burger King (it was the only place open at 2am and I totally don’t regret it)

Language highlights:
guapo / guapa: this word is thrown around a lot, it basically meaning handsome / pretty and is a term of endearment
-Mexican Spanish: grassy-us … Spain Spanish: grath-ee-uh (I feel like I developed a lisp this past week)
-trying to decipher between Spanish and Catalon (the language spoken here)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 126
CURRENCIES: 5

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Holy Week in Seville

Seville was an unplanned stop in Spain for me but I was told I just had to come down here for the processions during Holy Week (Semana Santa) in the days leading up to Easter Sunday.

So I sandwiched a few days in between Madrid and Barcelona to take the train down to Seville. I had never heard of the processions and had no idea what to expect, or how difficult it would be to find accommodations!

Luckily Rob accepted my couch surfing request for three nights and four days. A 28 year old from Miami based with the Air Force an hour outside of Seville, we hit it off instantly and didn’t shut up the entire time. What is this feeling of such familiarity and comfort with all the people I am meeting on this journey? I cannot tell if it’s due to the overwhelming kindness I’ve experienced from strangers, my own openness or both? He was off of work for the holiday, so we spent the days exploring and the evenings celebrating – a first Semana Santa experience for both of us.

It was hot in Seville, over 100 degrees each day and in the low 70’s at night. I sent all of my summer clothing and sandals from Australia back with Jon after Italy, so I was ill prepared for that kind of heat… to say the least. There was a constant, unquenchable thirst.

I was surprised to see women in high heels and men in suits, dressed in their Easter best (literally) for each day of Semana Santa. Even more surprising, were the traditional robes and pointed hoods worn by the members of the church participating in the processions. No matter how much I saw them and understood that they are in reality not related at all, I never really got over the tinge of fear and unease of seeing these outfits knowing what they represent with the KKK in the United States.

The tradition of the garb represents penitence for their sins, to take the attention away from them and toward God. Each day there are these long processions, thousands of men and women carrying 4 foot long candles or bearing large crosses walking very slowly through the streets of Seville, many are barefoot. There are children dressed as priests and women singing sorrowful tunes accompanied by wind instruments. There are these beautiful and elaborate floats weighing close to two tons, some as old as the 16th century, that are carried by 40-50 men. Each church has their own brotherhood that marches along the small, winding streets up to the main cathedral. Over a million locals and tourists come out for these processions.

The biggest and most elaborate procession is the Thursday evening leading into the morning of Holy Friday – it doesn’t even begin until midnight and they walk for over 8 hours. To be in a crowd of thousands, all hushed… it was like nothing I have ever experienced before. Rob and I decided to leave around 5:45am… there were still hoards of people arriving and crowding around – children and elderly, party goers, families. You got this sense that they weren’t going home anytime soon. Even though I am not religious, it was beautiful to witness such tradition, passion and dedication.

Moments in Seville:
-haggling with street vendors for a new purse since mine had been completely destroyed on this trip and from the rain in Italy
-having drinks outside on a warm evening, discussing life with my couch surfing host
-seeing a live Spanish jazz band
-exploring the beauty of the Royal Alcazar gardens
-the beautiful architecture and painted tiles of Plaza Espana
-getting lost in the maze of alleys in the Santa Cruz neighborhood
-scaling a 12 foot fence into the Maria Luisa Park at 4am in search of a garden labyrinth which we never did find
-walking along the Guadalquivir River
-meeting Veronica and Marko in a shady dive bar and adoring them instantly – I will actually be staying with them when I get to Copenhagen!
-meeting a guy from Chicago and getting into a 1/2 hour long heated debate over pizza (for the record, deep dish is casserole not pizza)
-after two nights of procession celebrations and heavy drinking, enjoying a very rare night of relaxing, movies and pizza

Food highlights:
-mushroom and gorgonzola croquettes
-eating gazpacho (cold tomato soup) and albondigas (Spanish meatballs) on a rooftop terrace while drinking Sangria on a hot day

Language highlights:
-Paso: the giant float like structure (some being built as far as the 16th century) depicting Christ or the Virgin Mary, carried by 40-50 barefoot men (costaleros) depending on the weight… they march slowly through the streets for hours

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 9
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 119
CURRENCIES: 5

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The Unexpected in Madrid

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” – Martin Buber

Madrid was unexpected. I had a long list of places I had to see and things I had to do. I ignored it all. I worried less about the seeing and instead, concentrated on what I was feeling.

After a week with only my heartbreak to keep me company, it was incredible to find comfort where I was least expecting it. Koen, a co-worker (who lives in the Netherlands and that I have never met in person) offered for me to stay at his apartment in Madrid. I had to pick up the keys from his friend Ana. I was exhausted after an early flight and long morning, expecting to grab the keys and head to the apartment but I found myself completely invigorated within moments of speaking with Ana. She invited me in for breakfast where we sat with her baby daughter, pre-teen son and fabulous mother, Teodora. We talked for three hours about adventure, love and the nature of people. Abuelita Teodora spoke no English but we managed to have powerful (and also hilarious) conversations. She walked me to the apartment, offering words of caution and lessons in Spanish – it’s amazing how little language really is a barrier when people truly want to communicate with each other. She created a care package for me of items from her kitchen (deli meats, milk, a banana, a soda, a beer and bread).

Another co-worker who I have never met and I don’t interact with often offered to pick me up on his scooter for a tour of Madrid (don’t worry Mom, I wore a helmet). The company we work for doesn’t have a central office, we have employees all over the world so I don’t often meet those who live outside of the Bay Area. I had no idea what to expect of Eric, what he would be like or his interests but I was excited to meet up with someone I even somewhat knew. I did not expect that I would develop such a lovely and genuine friendship in the five days I had here.

Eric’s kindness and generosity helped me to not feel so alone and far away from my loved ones. He showed me the true heart of Madrid, picking me up each day for some new adventure, talking for hours on end about everything under the sun. Madrid was nothing I expected and everything I didn’t know to expect. It was nothing of what planned to see and everything of what I needed to experience.

Moments in Madrid:
scooter-ing past beautiful buildings, statues and fountains
date night with myself… drinking sangria and sitting front row center at a Flamenco show at one of the oldest tablaos in Madrid right in the beautiful Santa Ana Plaza (I really am a good date)… I cannot explain the passion witnessed in the rhythm and intensity that is felt in the pounding of the dancers’ feet on the hard wood… I felt it in every part of my body (I had the biggest goon smile on my face for the entire hour)… I’m also pretty sure one guy was the Spanish reincarnation of Patrick Swayze…
-continuing to spot the number 23… everywhere
-stumbling upon a three level tiki bar (and I do have to go into any tiki bar I see in honor of my SF friends), ordering the ‘Doctor Death’ cocktail and having the server place a lei over my head, an umbrella in my hair and hand me a flower while listening to 70’s American rock and having live birds flying around (something that actually terrified me, birds and I don’t get along)
-talking my way passed a line and out of a cover charge in addition to being handed free drink tickets at not one but two clubs
in small world fashion, meeting Gabe from my home state of Connecticut who is studying in Ireland and was visiting Spain
drinking mojitos and dancing until the sun came up
-wandering the streets in search of another place to dance before ditching the crowd I had gathered when I realized it was 5am and I still had an hour train ride home
-the allure of open air markets and the enticing food being sold
-people watching while walking along the Gran Via
-watching people wait in line to take a picture with a plaque denoting the geographical center of Spain
on my last night… seeing Eric’s friend perform in one of my favorite musicals, Priscilla, Reina del Desierto (Priscilla, Queen of the Desert)… is there anything better than gorgeous Spanish men in drag?

Food highlights:
-after all the meat in Germany, Poland and Czech then all the pizza and pasta in Italy… it was nice to eat normal portions of healthier food without that grotesque but happily full feeling
-strawberries in season (it doesn’t get much better than that!)
sangria, delicious and refreshing sangria… mmm…
Ibérican ham (but only in small portions… seeing how it was cut actually disturbed me but it was tasty)
-tapas… so many tapasthese little bites of food were gone before I could take many pictures of what we had ordered
churros with coffee for breakfast

Language highlights:
-nice to meet you: encantada (and for all the amazing people I met in Madrid… it truly was)
-attempting to bargain with a bouncer in limited, high school Spanish to let a group of us in for much cheaper (ummm… señor, venti euros para todos los gringos!)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS:
16
TRAINS:
8
BUSES:
3
STATES:
7
COUNTRIES:
7
CONTINENTS:
3
DAYS TRAVELING:
116
CURRENCIES:
5

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I say a little prayer for you.

I’m not religious but I find myself lighting a candle and saying a prayer in each church I visit in Europe. I usually think about those who have passed – I think about them to feel their presence in the moment, to use their memory as a guide in my life… to bring a part of them along with me, for all the places and experiences they were never able to have. This candle was different. I prayed to myself… I prayed to always remember the strength and fire that is within me, to think of what I have overcome in the past as a reminder that there is nothing that can break me, to remember to trust my instincts, to be guided by my conscious, and most importantly… to continue to find the courage to stay smiling, to find gratitude in each day and to keep an open heart and mind no matter what happens.

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Piece of Pisa

I’m not going to lie, I made a two day stop in Pisa before Madrid solely to get a picture with the Leaning Tower. Being that it’s only a 45 minute train ride from Florence, how could I not?!

I was grateful to be in a place that didn’t have a long ‘must see’ list – there was no rushing, scheduling or prioritizing to be done. I arrived in Pisa yesterday afternoon and spent time connecting with friends and family before beginning work. I woke up early this morning and leisurely strolled through the plazas on my way to the tower.

I saw a couple trying to take a selfie and offered them a picture taking trade. It turns out they are from San Jose… small world indeed. Then in line, I met a lovely mother and daughter from Los Angeles. I spent most of my morning chatting on top of the tower and touring the cathedral with them (this was the first real conversation I have had in person in 5 days). I hope one day, I get to experience a trip like this with my own mother.

In the past three days, I have seen the number 23 everywhere. It’s such a significant number to my family, that I actually have it tattoo’ed in a clock on my wrist. Seeing it in random places brings me comfort and always seems to happen when I am truly in need of that guidance.

It’s been hard to make it through each day knowing that I can’t share it with the one person I want to talk with the most. It’s nice to have someone that cares about every bit of your day – the funny accidents… the trivial complaints… the moments that make you sad, angry or happy… even the most mundane moments. This is the worst and loneliest part of breaking up.

Moments in Pisa:
-I strolled the streets of Pisa early in the morning, happening upon a busy farmer’s market, quaint shops and adorable coffee houses.
-I climbed 250 steps up a 7 tiered spiral staircase to the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the gravity of the tilt and the wear of the stairs actually making me feel like I was navigating my way home after a long night of drinking.
-The Pisa Cathedral is surprisingly the most stunning church I have visited in Europe, it brought me to tears (granted, that’s not difficult to do these days).
-I got completely lost and had given up the search of a mural I really wanted to see. In defeat, I rounded the corner to get gelato and it was right there in front of me. The Tuttomondo mural on the Sant’Antonio Abate church by Keith Haring reminded me that I am a part of something bigger than myself.
-5 minutes after I stepped in the house for work, it started to thunder and rain heavily… for once I wasn’t stuck walking in it (my newly purchased rain jacket has already paid itself off tenfold)! It always seems to rain only on my last day in each place of Italy I have been.

Food Highlights:
-my final meal of Italy, spaghetti alla carbonara (I had to get my favorite one last time)
-eating my last gelato and sipping on a cappuccino while watching a street performer that made me laugh for the first time in 6 days (http://youtu.be/LJ_2stcelZc)

Language Highlights:
the are two phrases I had to repeat this week, seemingly harmless but incredibly heartbreaking given the situation
I love you: ti amo
Goodbye: arrivederci

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 8
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 112
CURRENCIES: 5

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Florence… on my own again

While I would have preferred to shut myself off to the world and get lost in a pint of ice cream while crying hysterically to every RomCom Netflix has to offer… That just wasn’t an option. I’m smack in the middle of my three month Eurotrip with five days in the beautiful city of Florence… this once in a lifetime endeavor. I gave myself the first night here to be alone, to drown in my sadness. It took so much of me to get out of bed the next morning, knowing I had to find the strength to bear through my pain and do what I came here to do… to explore, to get lost and to experience as much possible.

Florence is the first place where I didn’t have any friends to visit or didn’t try to make friends as I had in Berlin, Warsaw, Krakow and Prague. I wanted to be as alone as I felt. I needed quiet, to sit with my incessant thoughts and over-analyzations. I had to soak in my feelings of sorrow, disappointment, hurt and anger… embracing every aspect of them before I could begin to let that heavy weight and burden go knowing that they are all valid but useless emotions.

In these days, I wandered until my feet ached, I climbed a whole lot of stairs, I ate, I drank, I saw beauty in many forms and on my last evening, I walked the heart of the city at midnight for an hour in the pouring rain, allowing myself to give in to deep, guttural sobs… to feel the pain in every part of my body and heart.

I am not sure how a week can feel so long and so short at the same time. I threw myself back into work in the evenings and spent the days touring. I took myself on dates… I ate alone for the first time, a full three course meal seated in an empty restaurant… I went to museums to stand in awe of David and beautiful Renaissance paintings… I did my hair and makeup, threw on the only dress I have with me and went to the opera.

I was alone physically but received such an outpouring of love from close friends, family and even some people I barely know… it reminded me of what I have built, this tapestry of life I have weaved of experiences and human connections. I have worked hard to be where I am… physically and emotionally. I wasn’t always happy, I actually didn’t used to think life was worth living. It took years of work, introspection and patience to become the brave, open and smiling person that I am now. Happiness is a conscious effort, a practice of every day gratitude. I am grateful to be exactly who and where I am. I am grateful for the people in my life, for the inspiration and the encouragement. It reminds me that I am not really alone and gives me the strength I need to continue on and embrace this adventure.

Moments in Florence:
-On the first day, I walked along the Arno river and across the Ponte Vecchio. I listened to a violinist play Frank Sinatra’s ‘My Way’. It could not have been or felt more perfect.
-I saw the Fountain of Neptune, climbed the stairs to view the city from the Piazzale Michelangelo and got lost in the alleys.
-I toured San Lorenzo’s Basilica – built in 393 and reconstructed in 1418. I saw works by Donatello and Michelangelo in this beautiful church.
-I woke up early to avoid lines and climbed 463 steps to the top of the Duomo as monks chanted in the church below. I then climbed 152 more steps to the top of the bell tower for a better view of the Duomo. I lit a candle in the Santa Maria Basilica then explored the crypt that lies beneath it.
-I enjoyed the solitude of a private patio for work and reflection.
-I was smacked in the face with the smell of leather as I roamed San Lorenzo’s market and haggled for a new pair of sunglasses to replace the ones I lost.
-I saved an older gentlemen from being pick pocketed on a bus.
-I visited the Galleria dell’Accademia where I saw instruments, statues and paintings that were centuries older than America. I saw my family’s lucky #23 on a harpsichord from the 18th century which was a sign I needed (the number also came up 3 more times that day). I marveled at the sheer size and beauty of Michelangelo’s David.
-I got lost in the Galleria degli Uffizi. I bargained for them to let me in 2 1/2 hours earlier than my reservation was for and I’m grateful I did. It’s a place you could easily spend all day. There are long hallways and over 100 rooms (then offshoots of rooms in those rooms). Everything is art… the art itself, the ceilings, the floors… It’s like walking in a giant art maze. I tried to soak it all in but it was a bit overwhelming and stuffy, I was happy to be back out in fresh air after 2 hours. It’s easily my favorite museum, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. The art is indescribably beautiful. I was in awe at the size and detail in these works. Boticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ was incredible to see in person.
-I waited for a bus in the rain when a 4’8” grandmother (and that’s being generous with those inches) approached and spoke to me. I just smiled and gave shrug (I couldn’t understand what she said but I could tell it was a comment about me getting soaked). She smiled back and extended her arm as high as she could to reach the umbrella over my head. She’ll never know how much this gesture of kindness meant to me.
-I listed to Mozart, Amadeus and selections from famous operas (La Traviata, La Bohème, Tosca, Madame Butterfly, The Marriage of Figaro, and the Barber of Seville) in the beauty and acoustics of the Santa Monaca Church while drinking champagne.

Food highlights:
-I ate Tuscan tomato bread soup at a family owned restaurant. My server, Tony, works in LA as a chef and was home visiting his family for a few months. He brought me the food his mother made with pride and shared a glass of prosecco he and his brother made with me.
Cornetto, the Italian croissant. I ate it fresh from the oven with a cappuccino on a crisp morning.
-I had milk with honey & sesame and coffee crunch gelato at Perché No which was voted one of the best in Florence.

Language highlights:
Life is beautiful: La vita è bella
Please: Per favore
How much?: Quanto costa? A necessity for haggling in the market. Always express your disdain for the first price they give, pause a moment and state what you’d like to pay for the item. If they say no, place it down, say thank you and slowly walk away. 90% of the time, they’ll call you back with ‘okay. okay.’

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 7
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 110
CURRENCIES: 5

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