Tribute in Cork

Posted on April 29, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I had my first major delay of the trip (not a bad track record with 21 flights and 14 trains under my belt). My flight to Cork kept being pushed back further and further due to technical delays. I was so worried that it was going to be cancelled and I would miss the only chance I had to go to Blarney Castle. Luckily, after 6 hours (and a few beers), I boarded the flight to Cork. I spent most of that time working and calling loved ones, unfortunately the delay meant I had to work until 2am after arriving at the AirBnb (I was also bummed about missing an entire day I could have spent in Edinburgh).

With 3 days (but only 1 full day after taking out time for work, arrival and departure), I had little time to explore but I was able to accomplish the most important thing I went there to do… kissing the Blarney Stone.

The legend is that if you bend backward to kiss the Blarney Stone, you’ll be gifted great eloquence (the ability to be a smooth talker). My purpose in making this trek was less to receive the gift of gab (I mean, I’d say I’m pretty set in that department) and more to fulfill an unfulfilled dream of a loved one.

Growing up, my (very proud to be Irish) grandmother, Nonnie, would always talk about how one day we’d adventure to Ireland together to kiss the Blarney Stone and find our pot of gold. She passed away 9 years ago, leaving this dream behind. Yesterday, I climbed the winding, wobbly steps up Blarney Castle with tears in my eyes and her memory in my heart. I couldn’t believe I was really doing it…

I kissed the stone and found a quiet place in the Fern Garden by a waterfall to be completely alone and to let the tears flow. I wanted quiet space to embrace her memory and try to be fully present in the moment. I found a patch of clovers near by and buried the picture under it so that a part of her will always be in Ireland.

Every few years, my grandmother would give me a new claddagh ring (representing love, loyalty and friendship) as I outgrew them. When she passed, I had a tattoo done by a good friend of the family… this design has always held such power and significance in my life. In Blarney Castle, I purchased a new ring (ahem… obviously overpriced at the souvenir shop) to commemorate the moment, to act as a visual reminder of my journey and my inspiration to live with vigor and love.

A large part of the reason I was so compelled to endeavor on this journey is due to the lessons that the loss of my grandmother and other loves ones have taught me. This wisdom… the love of friends and family… the gratitude I feel each day… well, that’s my pot of gold. I am the richest girl in the world.

(I actually wrote a post almost two years ago about her and the story of her death which can be read by clicking this link.)

Moments in Cork:
-Hanging out at the AirBnb apartment with two cute pups named Spotty Dotty and Sir Dobby Dobson.
-Exploring the witch’s den, caves (I even hid from the rain in one!), tunnels (I’m glad I’m short because these spaces got very cramped), waterfalls, gardens (there was even a poison garden!) and trails on the grounds of the Blarney Castle. I got lost more times than I can count due to the unreliable, hard to follow map they provide. I slowly descended and ascended the wishing stairs backwards with my eyes closed in hopes that the witch will grant my wish (Irish folklore). I spent 3 hours wandering but could have easily spent all day here, it was so beautiful.
-Walking through the city center and popping into a few quirky shops.
-Literally ‘lol’ing the humor in the signs and advertisement.
-Working in the afternoon with a view of the Shandon tower and the city of Cork in front of me.

Food Highlights:
–O’Conaill’s for hot chocolate
–Beef and Guinness stew at the Woodford

Language Highlights:
-I said ‘Huh?’ more times than I can count before I just nodded and smiled (my go to when I don’t understand what the hell someone is saying).

AIRPORTS: 22
FLIGHTS: 21
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 14
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 144
CURRENCIES: 7

Edinburgh, you had me at hello

Posted on April 27, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

The second I arrived in Edinburgh, I immediately regretted not having more time there. It has a very different vibe then all the previous cities I have been to… the architecture, stone work, green grass and store fronts are unreal. I took more pictures in my 26 hours in Edinburgh than I have in most countries I spent 4-6 days in.

The people (though difficult to understand… really, is this English?) were incredibly kind and helpful every where I went. I felt at home. This is one of the few places I have visited that I really, really cannot wait to visit again (or maybe I should never leave?!). It was hard to get used to cars on the left side of the road again (and remembering to stay to the left while walking, I just kept getting in everyone’s way and almost got hit a few times) but it was so nice to see advertisement, signs and menus in English after 2 1/2 months!

I have 13 days left of this adventure, which I have mixed feelings about. Work is more stressful than ever (I am now the sole production manager of my company ) so that has been weighing on me a lot. It will be nice to not have to make the most out of every single second in the day to balance full time work and traveling, but I’m not sure what I’ll do with all my free time (probably go crazy)! I’ll be happy to see friends and family, but I’m nervous about returning after four months of traveling on my own. This adventure has required an entirely different mindset and truthfully, it has changed me. How can I figure out what my next steps are? What will make me happy? What will allow me to balance my need to lay roots down with my desire to blow with the wind? I’m doing my best to concentrate on the moment and not what will happen or where I will live when I get back to the States but it is a constant drain of energy to refocus my thinking. Welcome to the brain of an OCD, over-thinking Virgo!

Moments in Edinburgh:
-I walked up and down the Royal Mile, passing the Saint Giles Cathedral and absolutely incredible buildings and cute stores.
-I spent two hours in Edinburgh Castle which was built on a 700 million year old extinct volcano, parts of the castle itself have existed since the 12th century though people have inhabited the rock since 850 BC. There are so many museums (including a war museum with a beautiful photo exhibit of Scottish soldiers in Afghanistan during the last decade) and areas to explore here with breath taking views of Edinburgh.
-I thought San Francisco had finicky weather, but when I walked to the castle I was warm in a t-shirt then freezing and being hailed on within an hour!
-At the recommendation of the bartender, I enjoyed a pint of hard cider at the Jolly Judge while I let my phone charge.
-I couldn’t pass up the opportunity for a themed bar when I walked by a huge statue of Frankenstein so I decided to go in for dinner and as a true testament to my own luck, they happened to have karaoke voted ‘the best in Edinburgh’ on Sunday nights. The bar itself was pretty awesome, they even have a Frankenstein Lager locally brewed just for them which was quite tasty. At one point, Frankenstein was lowered from the ceiling and ‘came to life’. It was kitschy and trashy… right up my alley! I found a group of friends that can only be described as ‘my kind of people’ and we sang and danced until I had to leave for my ghost tour (I actually stayed later than anticipated because I had originally wanted to check out some live Scottish music that was happening but I was having too much fun).
-Testing my nerves on the City of the Dead tour as we explored the Underground City, the part of the South Bridge Vaults known as Damnation Alley, Greyfriar’s Graveyard and the Covenanter’s prison. We learned a ‘wee bit‘ of history and heard ghost stories of the South Bridge Entity and the Mackenzie Poltergeist. I luckily had made friends with two ladies from Chicago so I had a hand to squeeze in the darkness!
-I brought my new friends back to the Frankenstein bar… the bartenders and KJ had asked where I went and were happy to have my back… 6 hours in Edinburgh and I was already a regular at a karaoke bar! We had some scotch and beer, dancing and singing some more. After, we had a nightcap at a bar nearby followed by some ridiculously expensive pizza before I walked home around 4am.
–Observations: The lyrics in all 3 songs I sang were different in Scotland than when I have sung them in the states. I have no idea why. Isn’t that strange?? Also, every single bathroom I went in to had a condom dispensing machine… not sure what to make of that either!

Food Highlights:
–Scotch. That’s a food group, right?

Language Highlights:
-Instead of saying ’little’, I noticed the Scots say ‘wee bit’… As I’m ‘I’m just a wee bit knockered’ (I’m only slightly drunk).

AIRPORTS: 21
FLIGHTS: 20
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 13
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 142
CURRENCIES: 7

New ‘Old’ friends in Copenhagen

Posted on April 26, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

Copenhagen was not originally on my traveling list, but I met really fun people on a bar crawl in Berlin who invited me to check it out. Sadly, they were away the weekend I would be able to visit but I booked three days anyway.

Fortunately when I was in Seville, Spain three weeks ago, my couch surfing host and I popped into this seedy little bar where we met an awesome couple, a Norwegian girl and a Finnish guy, who happen to live in Copenhagen! They invited me to come and stay with them… an offer I gladly accepted.

It was a really nice weekend with Veronica and Marko… relaxing and familiar. I felt like I was hanging out with old friends. With the exception of 3 days in my last 2 weeks of this journey, I will be meeting up with friends. After weeks of traveling alone, I’m looking forward to this comfort… it will be a nice way to prepare for my return to the States.

On the morning of my departure, one of the friends (Sapna, an American student) I met in Berlin happened to be arriving. I went four hours early to the airport to sit and have breakfast with her. I met her at beginning of my Eurotrip, so it was nice to catch up with her after we’ve both been traveling for two months.

I am grateful for my global community. 🙂

Moments in Copenhagen:
-trying to figure out the denominations of the Danish Kroner… most certainly the prettiest coins (p.s. Copenhagen is SO expensive)
-walking around the neighborhood with Marko, passing the Tivoli Gardens and funky buildings
-strolling the beach with Veronica to check out the 14 mile bridge that connects Denmark and Sweden over the ocean (but it was too foggy to see it)
-walking through the park and seeing interesting new takes on sports… bubble futbol, land paddling, windsurfing go-karts and futbol golf
-passing the Marble Church, the Queen’s Palace and the Royal Theater on the way to the Little Mermaid
-seeing the Little Mermaid with the pin a good friend, Jessica gave me at the beginning of this journey
-on the way back, finding a Japanese festival under the cherry blossoms with people dressed as anime characters, sumo wrestling and karaoke… also food, beer and art from Japan
-visiting Christiania, the ‘free state’ in Copenhagen… basically what I imagine Burning Man would be like if people could live there year round
-reading the synopsis of the original Little Mermaid by Hans Christian Andersen (it’s pretty fucking twisted) while drinking beers in the ‘Green Light District’

Food Highlights:
-Having an al fresco lunch at a vegetarian buffet in Christiana.
-On a cold, rainy night, I decided to make homemade baked mac and cheese after I’d heard Veronica and Marko had never had it (it’s also my favorite food which I haven’t had in 5 months). Unfortunately, bread crumbs here are used to bake and not cook so the crusty layer on top was a bit sweet and threw the dish off but it was still delicious in its gooey glory.

Language Highlights:
-A mix up of language at the grocery store when asking for ‘paprika’ and was brought to the fresh section then stood in front of the bell peppers in utter confusion (paprika means bell pepper everywhere but in the States apparently).

AIRPORTS: 20
FLIGHTS: 19
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 12
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 141
CURRENCIES: 6

Off to Nether, Netherland

Posted on April 24, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

After coincidentally arriving on 4/20 to spend 5 days in the Netherlands, I can only think of one words to describe this country – picturesque. There’s a feeling as if you’ve stepped back in time with the way the city centers of Leiden and Amsterdam are built on the banks of the river.

Personally, I think Amsterdam is overrated (unless you’re really into drug use and the prostitues). Granted, not all of Amsterdam can be judged by The Red Light District but in comparison to other European cities, I didn’t think it was anything special. I more so enjoyed my stay in Leiden with a co-worker and his family. It was wonderful to finally meet Koen who I was somehow able to develop a nice friendship with through the barriers of a remote company and a computer screen in the past three years. He is such an inspiring, kind human and his ladies (his partner and daughters) were so welcoming and full of life.

I liked seeing how people live here, the day to day. People are so kind to one another, very patient and helpful. I somehow survived steep stairs and bicycle lanes (even if you don’t think you’re in a bike lane, you probably are but don’t worry, the crazy bell dinging will let you know you are). Though, overall, the cars, bikes and pedestrians share the road very well.

Moments in Leiden:
-walking through the park with Koen near the house with Nikki, the family’s scruffy little maltese mix
-having dinner in the evenings with Koen’s family, witnessing their interactions, the genuine love and support they have for each other
–renting a bicycle and riding around for hours… seeing windmills, an outdoor market, houses on canals, an abandoned industrial area and boutique shops along cobbled streets

Moments in Amsterdam:
–Anne Frank House: I arrived half an hour before opening, waited 90 minutes in line and was about 15 minutes to the front when a woman offered me a free ticket with a 10am entry (if she hadn’t, I would have missed my walking tour at 11:15am!)… the museum was beautifully laid out and incredibly moving… walking past the bookcase and up the steep, narrow stairs as Anne had, stepping on creaky floor boards… it was chilling… A few weeks have passed and I have not yet written about my time in Auschwitz because I still can’t wrap my head around the horrors that occurred. I purchased a copy of the diary as it’s been some time since I’ve read it and I was really inspired by a quote from Emma Thompson they end the museum with, “All of her would-haves are our opportunities.”
–NewEurope Walking Tour Highlights: Usually you can walk up without booking and have no issues but apparently that’s not the case in Amsterdam! The tour was full, but I was able to talk my way into ‘shadowing‘. We learned about the history of Amsterdam through politics and culture and as we walked passed Dam Square, the Old Church, the Red Light District, the Jewish Quarter, the Royal Palace, the Dutch East India Company, and the narrowest house in Amsterdam.
-I met two Indian doctor brothers from San Jose on the tour and we met up the next day at the Bulldog “Coffee Shop”. I was paranoid to order an iced coffee there but I luckily survived the experience. We strolled around the area bar hopping and met a man from Arkansas who I could not believe was real since he was such a stereotypical character, we actually had to ‘leave’ (then sneak back in and hide in the corner) to escape his booming voice and incessant talking. After this bar closed, we were directed to the San Francisco Bar (naturally I had to check in on Facebook to confuse my friends). When this bar closed (seriously, how many last calls did we have that night?), we were led to the only after hours bar in the area by the bouncer in a hostel that you had to ring a doorbell to enter. We sat for awhile then grabbed a road beer and strolled around until the trains re-opened.
-After a late night of drinking, I grabbed a pizza loaf at the train station for the walk home. I got three bites in when a huge seagull swooped over my shoulder and snatched the food from the bag as it was in my mouth. I let out a piercing scream in surprise, then stood cursing the bird for about two minutes. And people wonder why I hate birds.

Food Highlights:
-tasting a variety of Dutch cheeses at different shops
–Café Sonneveld for a traditional Dutch meal of stamppot (mashed veggies and potatoes topped with gravy and served with meat)… I chatted over lunch with one of the tour guides
–Village Bakery in Leiden where I and a delicious bagel sandwich and a huge cup of ‘slow coffee’
-I bought a traditional dutch pie for dessert, it had a rice filling as was surprisingly delicious!

Language Highlights:
-Thank you: dank je wel

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 14
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 11
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 139
CURRENCIES: 5

Indulgence in Brussels

Posted on April 20, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I decided to pop into Brussels for a quick day visit on my way from Paris to the Netherlands, purely to eat as much as fucking possible and enjoy some of the best things in life… beer, chocolate and fries. I got lucky with a beautiful, sunshine filled day in their rainy season.

I arrived at 11am, dropped my stuff off at the AirBnb apartment and set off on an adventure. I love how small and easy to walk Brussels is and how the cars actually stop for pedestrians (a first I’ve experience in Europe). I enjoyed the friendliness of the Belgian culture and the cute shops in cobbled alleys.

I took another walking tour as a way to get an overview of the city and met a group of friends from the UK and an Austrian who would become my partners in crime for the rest of the day.

After a quick rest, we met back up for dinner and drinks. The night was closing in and I still hadn’t eaten frites. I went in search of them and found Smile-oke, a karaoke bar. I bought some frites and went back to Delirium to ask my new friends how much they trusted me and if they were down for an adventure… They were in. When 9 white people walk into a small, dimly lit bar full of Vietnamese business men doing lines of coke, you know it promises to be an interesting evening. We started putting our songs in and soon even the patrons were singing in English along with us. I had originally planned for it to be an early night but that never really happens, does it? Things gradually got stranger and we decided to head home, but that didn’t stop the singing… Sarah and I sang All Saints and Cher as we strolled through the main square and in the streets in search of a cab. I got home around 4:30am and enjoyed the 3 hours of sleep I was able to squeeze in before my train left. It was one of my favorite days of this trip. It was nice to be with group that felt like my crew back home… vulgar (in all the best ways), spontaneous and fun… I laughed all day.

Moments in Brussels:
-cramming my way through a huge flea market outside of the train station with two backpacks on
-stopping at Jat, an adorable coffee house where I purchased an ice coffee to sip on while I walked through Brussels Park
-seeing the Manneken Pis, a fountain of small Dutch boy peeing (the Belgian have good senses of humor!)
–Highlights from the Sandemann’s New Brussels Walking Tour: learning about the comic art history and scene including TinTin… hearing the history and culture of Belgium… seeing the Grand Place, Town Hall, Maison du Roi, The Stock Exchange, Galeries Saint Hubert, The Monnaie Opera, St Nicolas’ Church, the River Senne, the The Royal Square and the Mont des Arts

Food Highlights:
-sampling tasty house made truffles from Chocopolis (where I purchased 5 bars that I’ll somehow have to make it through 3 weeks of travel without eating)
-grabbing a warm waffle topped with whipped cream and Nutella (I asked the girl to make her favorite for me, it was a great choice)… thanks for the tip, Adam! I actually had to find a side alley to massacre this waffle, my face and hands were covered in Nutella
-dining with my new friends and having our patience tested as we waited over an hour for Middle Eastern food which was at least tasty (or maybe we were just starving?)… I was able to convince the man to give us free espresso
–frites… deliciously fried twice… with a spicy mayo sauce
–Delirium, a local brewery that has hundreds of beers (I have always loved their brews and was so excited to go there!)

Language Highlights:
-I can’t say I learned even a bit of Dutch or any more French, but I did sing in Vietnamese… that has to count for something, right?

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 12
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 10
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 135
CURRENCIES: 5

Blossoming in Paris

Posted on April 19, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” -Aldous Huxley

I had braced myself after hearing numerous warnings of the rude manner of French people… but I have to say, I was met with nothing but kindness and warmth where ever I went. People have conceptions of other cultures… but let’s face it, there are assholes and angels in every country. You get back what you put into the world and into your interaction with the people in it.

Actually, the only semi-strange and certainly awkward experience I had was with an American through couch surfing but I luckily found a nice room through AirBnB close to the metro.

With limited time in Paris, I was a bit stressed in planning. I only had one 1/2 mornings before work (I arrived at the airport at 10am on Thursday), one full day and three evenings before an early train departure on Sunday. Before beginning this trip, I had said my mantra would be ‘whatever I do and see will be enough’. But then you arrive in these amazing cities and want to do absolutely everything. Paris is huge and brilliant with much to offer, I had to consider what I really wanted to see versus what every guidebook and traveler told me I must see.

Cory, a friend from high school who I hadn’t talked to in awhile messaged me, we chatted a bit about travel and she offered a sentiment that brought me back to my mantra, “Sending my love, and my courage, and my assurance that whatever you’re doing however you’re doing it is just the way you should be doing it, you’re doing more than enough, it’s okay.”

These words were just the reminder I needed to embrace each moment and do the things that would make me happy instead of killing myself trying to fit everything in. So, I climbed the Eiffel Tower… strolled the broad and narrow streets of different neighborhoods… spent an hour getting ready for a date with myself to the Moulin Rouge (after I enjoyed a warm bubble bath listening to Boyz II Men)…. ate pastries and sipped coffee in adorable cafes… While I feel I am leaving with some unfinished business in Paris, I can say that my time there was perfect and just as it should have been.

There was something about Paris that felt lonely to me… part of me wished I had a companion with me in these moments, the other part was grateful to have the courage to do them on my own and still have fun.

A former co-worker who I never got to meet in person (I work for a remote company) just happened to be in Paris. I was scrolling Instagram and saw a picture he posted right about my picture of the Louvre. He was leading a workshop on living a creative life and invited me to check it out… it was a perfect way to spend my last morning in Paris.

Not only did I get to finally get to put a face to Rico’s amazing energy, intellect and kindness, but I got to spend the morning with the synapses in my brain shooting off like lightening… meeting inspiring people from all walks of life.

Later that evening, I met up with some of the friends I’d made in the workshop for a drink (students at Stanford). We talked about family, life, travel, dreams, inspirations… One asked me what my overall lesson would be from my journey thus far. I had to pause a moment and think back to the night before and my thought process as I, alone, watched the lights twinkling on the Eiffel Tower at midnight. I said my biggest lesson so far would be to not let the fear of being alone stop you from doing or trying anything.

Moments in Paris:
–Lizard Lounge: at Arnee’s suggestion I went to this supposedly wild and fun bar… I got there at 11:30pm and they had decided to close early so I snuck in one drink before catching the last train home… womp womp
–even the toilet paper in Paris is fancy… it’s pink!
-walking through Arc de Triomphe
-walking over 684 steps up Eiffel Tower
-strolling along Seine River
-passing through the Tuileries Garden and seeing the Louvre at night
–Sandemann’s NewParis Walking Tour Highlights: My tour guide’s name was Justine and a woman I befriended on the tour was named Jackie! It was a cute coincidence that made me smile. I learned the history of kings, queens, torture, revolutions… saw the Saint Michel Fountain, the Notre Dame de Paris (and learned how Victor Hugo saved this church from destruction with his writing of the Hunchback of Notre Dame), the Palace of Justice, the prison where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before decapitation, Napoléon’s Tomb, the Académie Française, the Assemblée National, the Grand & Petit Palais, the Latin Quarter, the Pont Neuf, the Place de la Concorde, the Opéra Garnier, the Palais Royal, the Musée d’Orsay and an Obalesque.
-I walked down Champs-Elysées with Sophie and Tim, an awesome married couple from Sydney that I met on the tour
-I rushed to find the best viewing point of the Eiffel Tower’s twinkling light show, I started at Pont Alexander III (which was suggested on TripAdvisor as the best location) but then began walking toward it, feeling like I could find a better spot… which I did right before midnight!
-the beautiful La Saint Chapelle basilica, it was built in 13th century and has 15 high stained glass windows which make up most of the church
–And the highlight of my time in Paris… taking myself on a date night to the Moulin Rouge!! This cabaret has been open since 1889 and was obviously made famous by the movie (“The greatest thing you’ll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return”). I saw the can can, phenomenal costumes, talented performances, beautiful sets, a woman dive into a pool that rose from the ground filled with 6 anacondas that she wrestled with, a couple on roller skates performing very dangerous, impressive stunt, incredible acrobatics anddddddd I was asked to come on stage where I performed in front of 850 people (literally my dream coming true, I can’t believe this is my life)!!!!

Food Highlights:
–soup a l’oignon (french onion soup is my favorite soup)
–Willi’s Wine Bar: cheese and wine
–L’As Du Fallafel: the best falafel sandwich I’ve ever had… it was packed with falafel, pickled vegetables and roasted eggplant… I’m drooling just thinking about it (thanks Cameron and Adam for this suggestion!)
-morning coffee and a croissant overlooking the Seine
-lemon and sugar crepe
–macaroons
-a quick lunch with my new Aussie friends at a seeming below after Middle Eastern restaurant that ended up being delicious (seriously why does Paris have the best falafel?)

Language Highlights:
–Opulent (first time I’ve heard the word – it was used multiple times by many people when describing Paris): “ostentatiously costly and luxurious.”
-Hello: bonjour
-Thank you: merci
-Excuse me: excusez-moi
-Goodnight: bonsoir

AIRPORTS: 18
FLIGHTS: 18
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 9
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 134
CURRENCIES: 5

Lisbon: beautiful melancholy

Posted on April 16, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

Lisbon is indescribably beautiful… the foliage, the architecture, the people, the water, the parks, the culture.

Portugal was not originally on my traveling list, but my couch surfing host (and now good friend) in Poland, Goska, insisted I must see Lisbon. Two of her friends, Jorge and Carla, took me in without hesitation… even taking time off work in the 5 days I was here to show me around.

They knew my work schedule and created an itinerary so that each day I could see the best parts of Lisbon and the surrounding areas. It was such a relief to have a break in planning and decision making! I am in such awe at the overwhelming kindness and generosity of ‘strangers’ I have experienced on this trip.

I’m going to call Lisbon the sister city of San Francisco. They have two bridges into the city just like SF which even look like the Golden Gate and the Bay Bridge. They have big hills and cable cars, which I rode for the first time (never did that in 4 years of living in SF!). Being close to the ‘end’ of this journey, with my heart longing for SF, it was nice to feel so close to home even far away.

On my first evening, I experienced fado over dinner and drinks with Carla, Jorge and two of their friends.

“Fado is a music genre which can be traced to the 1820s in Portugal, but probably with much earlier origins… fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sentiment of resignation, fatefulness and melancholia. This is loosely captured by the Portuguese word saudade, or ‘longing’, symbolizing a feeling of loss (a permanent, irreparable loss and its consequent lifelong damage). “ “Whatever its origins its themes have remained constant: destiny, betrayal in love, death and despair. A typical lyric goes: ‘Why did you leave me, where did you go? I walk the streets looking at every place we were together, except you’re not there.’”

To see men and women walking in from the street (or even from the kitchen as two cooks did) to sing songs of pain and loss… to hear the genuine sorrow as they sang… it was moving and beautiful. It’s not often that the sadness in life is given such a public place. As my friend Niki put it, “It is also part of the Portuguese culture to speak of the good with the bad rather than the rose colored version of life americans share… beautiful.”

In Lisbon, I was able to embrace my own sadness in a different way. There is a constant ache in my chest, my heart more confused than ever… I continue to battle with the sadness and longing… torturing myself with the playback of events and analyzation of the people we became at the end of our relationship, of the hurt we have caused each other. I know I have to let go (at least of the control in having to know what the future holds) but I’m incapable of existing in the unknown. Lisbon taught me that I can create it a space for it in my life, without letting it consume me.

Moments in Lisbon:
-fado and dinner at Taberna A Baiuca Alfama which ended with the entire restaurant breaking into dance for last song
-the gorgeous stone design on the streets all over Lisbon but especially Rossio Square
-the Cais das Colunas representing where the ships would dock
-seeing a smaller version of the Christ in Rio (a gift from Brazil to Portugal), remembering the fun time I had climbing to the top with my best girls
-the train ride to Cascais (it’s listed as top 10 most beautiful in Europe)
–Cascais: the beach, the harbor and the Boca do Inferno (mouth of hell) chasm in the cliffs there
-The president’s ‘pink’house and the garden in front of it
-a huge monastery from 13th century
–Belem Tower: “the last landmark explorers saw as they sailed out of Lisbon to ‘discover’ unknown parts of the world”
-the war memorial with an eternal flame and soldiers marching and saluting
-visiting the midevil town of Sintra where the flowers were in full bloom and you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time
-exploring the massive area of La Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra… we saw a waterfall, a grotto, a park, a mansion, a tower, a small church, a deep well, the fountain of abundance… we walked through dark tunnels and saw flowers I’ve never seen including so much wild lilac which I could not stop breathing in
-laughing at a police dog training in the park who had no interest in doing as he was supposed to
-taking a ride on the sky tram (which they call a cable car here) with Carla
-walking an avenue of monuments (so many more beautiful statues of strong women) with Jorge on my last day and finding the perfect dress for the Moulin Rouge on Saturday for only 18 euro (after hunting 3 malls and 2 shopping strips in 2 countries)!
-luckily missing (again) a train strike right before I came and another starting the day I left (I took a cab because of the early departure time)
-The security at the Lisbon airport tore through every inch of my tightly packed luggage (due to very strict Ryanair policies on size), I then had to argue with them to not take away the small lotion container I’ve traveled through 17 airports with (which they did anyway)… Apparently my sensual amber scent is a threat to national security. I later realized my fly was down the whole time. And my fly was down the whole time, which I only now realized. I bargained with him to let me empty the lotion into one of their plastic bags (which looks disgusting by the way). I then asked for my empty container back since it was now just an empty container. He said I was a ‘tricky girl‘ and wouldn’t give it to me… I’d still like to think I won this battle.

Food highlights:
–porto as an apertiff
–despite an extreme distaste for seafood, I ate octopus and tuna
-with the Brazilian influence in Lisbon, I was able to enjoy some of my favorite treats: coxinha, pao de quiejo, brigadeiro and gaurana
–Pastéis de Belém: small custard pastries that have been made the same way in this restaurant since 1837
–queijada and travesseiro pastries in Sintra
–ginja, sour cherry liquor in a chocolate cup / shot that you ate afterward
-a deliciously typical Portuguese dinner with meats I could not distinguish and didn’t want to attempt to (despite some not so pleasant company)
–flank steak topped with a sunny side up egg… I’ll be using this recipe when I get back!

Languages highlights:

Saudade: “It describes a deep emotional state of nostalgic or profound melancholic longing for an absent something or someone that one loves. Moreover, it often carries a repressed knowledge that the object of longing may never return. Saudade was once described as “the love that remains” after someone is gone. Saudade is the recollection of feelings, experiences, places or events that once brought excitement, pleasure, well-being, which now triggers the senses and makes one live again. It can be described as an emptiness, like someone (e.g., one’s children, parents, sibling, grandparents, friends, pets) or something (e.g., places, things one used to do in childhood, or other activities performed in the past) that should be there in a particular moment is missing, and the individual feels this absence. It brings sad and happy feelings all together, sadness for missing and happiness for having experienced the feeling.”

AIRPORTS: 17
FLIGHTS: 17
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 8
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 131
CURRENCIES: 5

True colors shining through

Posted on April 14, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

“The peacock is a symbol of integrity and the beauty we can achieve when we endeavor to show our true colors.”

When I was walking through a park in Warsaw a little over a month ago, a peacock crossed my path. He opened his feathers and stood in front of me, gently swaying in half circles to the right… to the left.. back and forth for about 10 minutes. There was no female around to impress, so it was rare that he did this… It felt like he just needed to present himself in this moment. It was as if he was saying, ‘here I am, world… I’m beautiful, aren’t I?’. I have never used the world majestic to describe anything before, but it seems to be the only one fitting this experience.

I made an active decision to be happy 6 years ago, to not let ugliness and sadness consume me anymore. I worked hard to be the person I am today. And in the last two years, I channeled that energy to create the life I want to lead… I was promoted, bought a car, scored (and subsequently gave up for this trip) an awesome apartment in SF, fell in (and lost) love for the first time in 9 years, completely changed my lifestyle (losing 29% of my body weight), finished three Tough Mudders, paid off 50% of my student loans, paid off all of my credit card debt, had more adventures than I can list and traveled a good chunk of the globe (alone).

I know what it is to empower myself through decision and action… to feel pride in myself. Above all, my greatest accomplishment is that I have been able to remain open, vulnerable and loving despite deep loss and disappointment. Remaining this way allows me to experience the best parts of humanity, friendship and myself. I think the struggles allow me to embrace life with great fervor… As if knowing the dark depths allows me to appreciate the light above more. In a way, I’m grateful for the shit times… for the wisdom and strength I possess in overcoming it all.

I chose to get a tattoo to remember this time and feeling in my life… a peacock feather. I was lucky in finding a wonderful artist in Barcelona (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me). I want to remember this journey that began years ago with one seemingly simple choice… and to remember the beauty and power in vulnerability… as a symbol of my warrior spirit and brave heart.

I am now at the point in my life where I too am saying ‘here I am, world… I’m beautiful, aren’t I?’

“The peacocks feathers are meaningful to those with this power animal, for they also have an association with resurrection, rising out of the ashes. They can help us shed the old feathers of the past and to take back the true beauty of our individuality.”
– Ina Woolcott

Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

Posted on April 11, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

The best part of traveling alone is that you can decide how “lonely” that can be. I get to choose when I feel like being alone (without hurting anyone’s feelings) and can easily make new friends when I need company.

I had a week in Barcelona to have the space I needed for thinking and the opportunity to be surrounded by amazing people when I wanted to be. I enjoyed the ‘tourist’ attractions earlier in the week but by the end, I simply enjoyed ‘living’ in Barcelona. I think that’s the best part of traveling, when you just feel at home wherever you are.

On my last day in Barcelona, I actually had to spend a few hours re-uploading all the pictures in this blog dating back to when it was created two years ago (I made in error in thinking I could delete the archive on WordPress). There was actually something quite beautiful in having to go back to the beginning and reading my thought process before this journey. Nearing the end of this trip, I can’t imagine that it could have been more perfect to be almost forced into reviewing where I started from. I remembered the choice I made to be happy… The choice I made to begin this adventure… I remembered that you do choose in life… even if your only choice is a matter of perception in your reality.

Moments in Barcelona:
-I got very lucky with a beautiful apartment and a kind couchsurfing host… I met my Ray (a 44 year old Frenchman) at the bar he was at with friends to get the keys before heading to the apartment… I did not expect to open the door to a four story house with marble floors, an elevator, a huge patio, a rooftop terrace with beautiful views of the city, a sauna and a maid
-meeting Jan (from Barcelona), Sully (from Boston) and Anny (from Colombia) through couchsurfing… Jan picked us up and took us to Magic, a classic rock bar where we enjoyed tequila sunrises and chatted until very late in the evening… I even ran into another guy that I had chatted with on the site when I was looking for a host (small world as always)
-being a bit sad to be missing Easter traditions with my friends in San Francisco, I had a lovely solo brunch of albondigas con juevos y una cerveza (Spanish meatballs with eggs and a beer)
-after an unsuccessful attempt to meet up with Sully and Anny, I strolled the enormous and beautiful Parc Güell by myself on Easter Sunday… touring Antoni Gaudi’s house and finding Los Sobrino, a string quartet, playing a cover of ‘Firework’ by Katy Perry (I was actually so impressed that I bought their CD)
-catching up with the ladies for tapas and hilarious conversation that I didn’t quite understand but caught the gist of with the waiters
-breathing the fresh Mediterranean Sea air at the beach (even if it was slightly chilly)
–Sangria on the beach followed by a dinner of tasty tapas with my new friends
–El Bosc de Les Fades: a very well decorated fairy tthemed bar that makes you feel like you are in the forest
-meeting up with Sully at the Plaza Espanya and walking around the National Art Museum of Catalonia, an incredible building with enormous fountains
-having lunch on top of the old bullfighting arena which is now a mall (bullfighting is illegal in Barcelona)
-highlights from Sandemann’s NewEurope walking tour: learning the history of Barcelona and Catalonia and the reason behind their quest for independence from Spain, walking through the beautiful plazas, the structure dedicated to the Castilleres who climb on each other’s shoulders to reach great heights, Gaudi’s fountain, the Arc del Triomf, a dash of Picasso art and the beautiful mosaics of brightly colored Spanish tiles
-lunch and chit chat with my new friends from the tour: Jess from France, Q from New York and Tim from Australia
-highlights from the Sandemann’s NewEurope Gaudi and Moderisme tour: learning of Gaudi’s life, the tiles lining Passeig de Gràcia from Gaudi’s design, houses from the Modernsime era (and the funny stories behind some of the decor), Gaudi’s Casa Battló (telling the story of Saint Jordi’s battle with the dragon to save the virgin princess), Gaudi’s Casa Milà (the last private house he worked on, a huge inspiration for George Lucas creating Star Wars) and more
-touring the inside of La Sagrada Família… it began construction in 1882 and is still a work in progress, Gaudi began his life’s work when he was 31 years old and worked on it until his tragic death 43 years later… this church is the definition of ‘epic’, every inch of it is grand and has meaning behind it… the way the light floods in is breathtaking, I look forward to visiting in 20 or so years when it’s completed
–appreciating the symbolism and beauty in architecture in a way that I honestly never did before
-seeing more 23’s 🙂
-the beautiful view of the city and the construction on La Sagrada Família from the passion facade tower
-hunting for a perfect dress for my Moulin Rouge evening in Paris in a really alternative and funky neighborhood that I couldn’t figure out the name of… there were great vintage stores and awesome record shops
-getting a permanent souvenir from this trip, a beautiful peacock feather from Chiara Pina at LTW Tattoo (the first time I’ve trusted a stranger to tattoo me – I’ll post about this later)
-window shopping along La Rambla and in the windy streets along the edges of this area
-finding the St. Joseph Mercat – La Bouqueria, an amazing farmer’s market
-having a few beers and discussing the key to happiness with Jan at an Irish bar (Michael Collins) that had a great 90’s cover band

Food highlights:
-potato and beef stew at El Pollo Rico, a recommendation from Josh
-so many empanadas, some traditional and some unique
-bread with garlic and smushed tomato (very common in Barcelona, simple but tasty)
–murros: fried pig nose (basically like pork grinds)
-deep fried cream cheese balls at Burger King (it was the only place open at 2am and I totally don’t regret it)

Language highlights:
–guapo / guapa: this word is thrown around a lot, it basically meaning handsome / pretty and is a term of endearment
-Mexican Spanish: grassy-us … Spain Spanish: grath-ee-uh (I feel like I developed a lisp this past week)
-trying to decipher between Spanish and Catalon (the language spoken here)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 11
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 126
CURRENCIES: 5

Holy Week in Seville

Posted on April 4, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

Seville was an unplanned stop in Spain for me but I was told I just had to come down here for the processions during Holy Week (Semana Santa) in the days leading up to Easter Sunday.

So I sandwiched a few days in between Madrid and Barcelona to take the train down to Seville. I had never heard of the processions and had no idea what to expect, or how difficult it would be to find accommodations!

Luckily Rob accepted my couch surfing request for three nights and four days. A 28 year old from Miami based with the Air Force an hour outside of Seville, we hit it off instantly and didn’t shut up the entire time. What is this feeling of such familiarity and comfort with all the people I am meeting on this journey? I cannot tell if it’s due to the overwhelming kindness I’ve experienced from strangers, my own openness or both? He was off of work for the holiday, so we spent the days exploring and the evenings celebrating – a first Semana Santa experience for both of us.

It was hot in Seville, over 100 degrees each day and in the low 70’s at night. I sent all of my summer clothing and sandals from Australia back with Jon after Italy, so I was ill prepared for that kind of heat… to say the least. There was a constant, unquenchable thirst.

I was surprised to see women in high heels and men in suits, dressed in their Easter best (literally) for each day of Semana Santa. Even more surprising, were the traditional robes and pointed hoods worn by the members of the church participating in the processions. No matter how much I saw them and understood that they are in reality not related at all, I never really got over the tinge of fear and unease of seeing these outfits knowing what they represent with the KKK in the United States.

The tradition of the garb represents penitence for their sins, to take the attention away from them and toward God. Each day there are these long processions, thousands of men and women carrying 4 foot long candles or bearing large crosses walking very slowly through the streets of Seville, many are barefoot. There are children dressed as priests and women singing sorrowful tunes accompanied by wind instruments. There are these beautiful and elaborate floats weighing close to two tons, some as old as the 16th century, that are carried by 40-50 men. Each church has their own brotherhood that marches along the small, winding streets up to the main cathedral. Over a million locals and tourists come out for these processions.

The biggest and most elaborate procession is the Thursday evening leading into the morning of Holy Friday – it doesn’t even begin until midnight and they walk for over 8 hours. To be in a crowd of thousands, all hushed… it was like nothing I have ever experienced before. Rob and I decided to leave around 5:45am… there were still hoards of people arriving and crowding around – children and elderly, party goers, families. You got this sense that they weren’t going home anytime soon. Even though I am not religious, it was beautiful to witness such tradition, passion and dedication.

Moments in Seville:
-haggling with street vendors for a new purse since mine had been completely destroyed on this trip and from the rain in Italy
-having drinks outside on a warm evening, discussing life with my couch surfing host
-seeing a live Spanish jazz band
-exploring the beauty of the Royal Alcazar gardens
-the beautiful architecture and painted tiles of Plaza Espana
-getting lost in the maze of alleys in the Santa Cruz neighborhood
-scaling a 12 foot fence into the Maria Luisa Park at 4am in search of a garden labyrinth which we never did find
-walking along the Guadalquivir River
-meeting Veronica and Marko in a shady dive bar and adoring them instantly – I will actually be staying with them when I get to Copenhagen!
-meeting a guy from Chicago and getting into a 1/2 hour long heated debate over pizza (for the record, deep dish is casserole not pizza)
-after two nights of procession celebrations and heavy drinking, enjoying a very rare night of relaxing, movies and pizza

Food highlights:
-mushroom and gorgonzola croquettes
-eating gazpacho (cold tomato soup) and albondigas (Spanish meatballs) on a rooftop terrace while drinking Sangria on a hot day

Language highlights:
-Paso: the giant float like structure (some being built as far as the 16th century) depicting Christ or the Virgin Mary, carried by 40-50 barefoot men (costaleros) depending on the weight… they march slowly through the streets for hours

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 9
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 119
CURRENCIES: 5

The Unexpected in Madrid

Posted on April 1, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” – Martin Buber

Madrid was unexpected. I had a long list of places I had to see and things I had to do. I ignored it all. I worried less about the seeing and instead, concentrated on what I was feeling.

After a week with only my heartbreak to keep me company, it was incredible to find comfort where I was least expecting it. Koen, a co-worker (who lives in the Netherlands and that I have never met in person) offered for me to stay at his apartment in Madrid. I had to pick up the keys from his friend Ana. I was exhausted after an early flight and long morning, expecting to grab the keys and head to the apartment but I found myself completely invigorated within moments of speaking with Ana. She invited me in for breakfast where we sat with her baby daughter, pre-teen son and fabulous mother, Teodora. We talked for three hours about adventure, love and the nature of people. Abuelita Teodora spoke no English but we managed to have powerful (and also hilarious) conversations. She walked me to the apartment, offering words of caution and lessons in Spanish – it’s amazing how little language really is a barrier when people truly want to communicate with each other. She created a care package for me of items from her kitchen (deli meats, milk, a banana, a soda, a beer and bread).

Another co-worker who I have never met and I don’t interact with often offered to pick me up on his scooter for a tour of Madrid (don’t worry Mom, I wore a helmet). The company we work for doesn’t have a central office, we have employees all over the world so I don’t often meet those who live outside of the Bay Area. I had no idea what to expect of Eric, what he would be like or his interests but I was excited to meet up with someone I even somewhat knew. I did not expect that I would develop such a lovely and genuine friendship in the five days I had here.

Eric’s kindness and generosity helped me to not feel so alone and far away from my loved ones. He showed me the true heart of Madrid, picking me up each day for some new adventure, talking for hours on end about everything under the sun. Madrid was nothing I expected and everything I didn’t know to expect. It was nothing of what planned to see and everything of what I needed to experience.

Moments in Madrid:
–scooter-ing past beautiful buildings, statues and fountains
–date night with myself… drinking sangria and sitting front row center at a Flamenco show at one of the oldest tablaos in Madrid right in the beautiful Santa Ana Plaza (I really am a good date)… I cannot explain the passion witnessed in the rhythm and intensity that is felt in the pounding of the dancers’ feet on the hard wood… I felt it in every part of my body (I had the biggest goon smile on my face for the entire hour)… I’m also pretty sure one guy was the Spanish reincarnation of Patrick Swayze…
-continuing to spot the number 23… everywhere
-stumbling upon a three level tiki bar (and I do have to go into any tiki bar I see in honor of my SF friends), ordering the ‘Doctor Death’ cocktail and having the server place a lei over my head, an umbrella in my hair and hand me a flower while listening to 70’s American rock and having live birds flying around (something that actually terrified me, birds and I don’t get along)
-talking my way passed a line and out of a cover charge in addition to being handed free drink tickets at not one but two clubs
–in small world fashion, meeting Gabe from my home state of Connecticut who is studying in Ireland and was visiting Spain
–drinking mojitos and dancing until the sun came up
-wandering the streets in search of another place to dance before ditching the crowd I had gathered when I realized it was 5am and I still had an hour train ride home
-the allure of open air markets and the enticing food being sold
-people watching while walking along the Gran Via
-watching people wait in line to take a picture with a plaque denoting the geographical center of Spain
–on my last night… seeing Eric’s friend perform in one of my favorite musicals, Priscilla, Reina del Desierto (Priscilla, Queen of the Desert)… is there anything better than gorgeous Spanish men in drag?

Food highlights:
-after all the meat in Germany, Poland and Czech then all the pizza and pasta in Italy… it was nice to eat normal portions of healthier food without that grotesque but happily full feeling
-strawberries in season (it doesn’t get much better than that!)
–sangria, delicious and refreshing sangria… mmm…
–Ibérican ham (but only in small portions… seeing how it was cut actually disturbed me but it was tasty)
-tapas… so many tapas – these little bites of food were gone before I could take many pictures of what we had ordered
–churros with coffee for breakfast

Language highlights:
-nice to meet you: encantada (and for all the amazing people I met in Madrid… it truly was)
-attempting to bargain with a bouncer in limited, high school Spanish to let a group of us in for much cheaper (ummm… señor, venti euros para todos los gringos!)

AIRPORTS: 15
FLIGHTS: 16
TRAINS: 8
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 7
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 116
CURRENCIES: 5

	Allen Young on On The Road Again
	Kaley on On The Road Again
	Laura on On The Road Again
	marjoriewiener on On The Road Again
	Galway and the Cliff… on One Night in Warsaw

Dreaming my reality, creating my destiny

Monthly Archives: April 2015

Tribute in Cork

Edinburgh, you had me at hello

New ‘Old’ friends in Copenhagen

Off to Nether, Netherland

Indulgence in Brussels

Blossoming in Paris

Lisbon: beautiful melancholy

True colors shining through

Remembering the choice…. Barcelona

Holy Week in Seville

The Unexpected in Madrid

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