Have you ever had a meal so good that it deserved it’s own blog post? I have. Jon’s friend recommended Dino e Toni’s in Vatican City… he did not, however, give us any clue about what to expect. After a beautiful morning in the Vatican Museum and a stressful afternoon trying to get into Saint Peter’s Basillica, we made our way to this restaurant. From the outside, it seemed like nothing special (if it wasn’t a recommendation, I probably wouldn’t have given it a second glance). Upon walking in, we noticed there was flour on the floor to prevent us from slipping after coming in from the pouring rain (Italians really like to use their resources). The decor was minimal but charming. It was a small restaurant with long tables and chairs, cafeteria style.

We were greeted by an older man who spoke no English. He began rambling to us and we nodded our heads and smiled, agreeing to the ‘alla casa’ special as the others around us had. We had NO idea what was about to take place.

They brought wine.

Then they brought out ‘appetizers’ to share…
-potato croquets
-fried nugget shaped foods (one was sweet and one was mushroom maybe… truthfully, we have no idea but they were delicious)
-slices of salami & prosciutto
-a spinach and cheese bread
-and pizza with four different kinds of toppings (a pizza… as an appetizer… this should have tipped us off…)

We were getting pretty full. Then they served us each a bowl of rigatoni alla gricia (pasta with pepper, parmesan & bacon).

Followed by another bowl each of rigatoni covered in the best tomato sauce I’ve ever had and thick cut bits of bacon.

They brought us meatballs and a deep fried eggplant to share. The servers (all older Italian men) were constantly bustling and belting out serenades whenever the mood struck.

The Brits next to us were already struggling at this point. One of the waiters came and yelled ‘Mangia! Mangia!’ (Eat! Eat!) as they were caught trying to hide some food under other plates (I don’t even think they stock to go containers). We were forced to finish even the tail of the artichoke. The struggle became real as I could literally feel my stomach expanding. We joked about being nervous every time they rounded the corner, terrified and excited that there would be more food for us.

They came and asked ‘carne or pesce?’ (meat or fish?). We chose carne and received pork with golden, roasted potatoes. Jon was a champ and finished most of this one by himself, I had to tap out.

We sat for awhile until two shots glasses and a bottle of Alagna Zibibbo were placed in front of us. I assumed it was an aperitif, so we each had a shot and sat for awhile longer. We chatted with the ladies to our left, Agathe and Cami. They had just begun their meal and we had to give them a warning. They were kind and offered for me to visit them in the South of France (which I just may do!).

Then came the pastries for Jon and I…
-fruit tarts
-cookies
-flan
-bread pudding
-a shot of espresso with ice cream

I had to start wrapping food in napkins and stuffing it my purse because we were close to vomiting from being so full. We sat for awhile, digesting and chatting over espresso. As we were leaving I hugged my new friends and the waiter ran up for a big hug and a kiss goodbye (both cheeks as they do in Italy). I felt like I was a niece among this Italian family, headed home after Sunday dinner.

The meal was an absurdly good value… about $80 USD for the two of us (as noted on the calculator that was handed to us when it was time for the ‘check’)… it took hours to walk off the grotesque fullness. But the food was the best I’ve had in Italy and the experience even better.

If you find yourself in Rome (or maybe plan a trip just for this meal – it’s worth it!)… visit our friends, Dino e Toni (Via Leone IV, 60, 00192 Roma). Note: I’m not actually sure if we met Dino or Toni, but there was something that gave me the sense that we had… or perhaps all the servers there just embodied their spirit!