Eat. Pray. Love. The Sequel.

Posted on March 31, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

On the plane from Pisa to Madrid, I finally got around to watching Eat. Pray. Love. after so many people kept telling me I just had to see it. I understand why now – I am living it. Well, my own version of it. I’ve been inspired in ways I never imagined… I have risked letting go… of everything… Each day on this journey has gifted me challenges and lessons… I have learned more about myself, human nature and the world than I ever could have expected. And the best part is, there’s still so much more for me to experience and discover. There are so many truths waiting to be revealed.

“In the end, I’ve come to believe in something I call ‘The Physics of the Quest.’ A force in nature governed by laws as real as the laws of gravity. The rule of Quest Physics goes something like this: If you’re brave enough to leave behind everything familiar and comforting, which can be anything from your house to bitter, old resentments, and set out on a truth-seeking journey, either externally or internally, and if you are truly willing to regard everything that happens to you on that journey as a clue and if you accept everyone you meet along the way as a teacher and if you are prepared, most of all, to face and forgive some very difficult realities about yourself, then the truth will not be withheld from you.” – final quote of the movie

I say a little prayer for you.

Posted on March 30, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I’m not religious but I find myself lighting a candle and saying a prayer in each church I visit in Europe. I usually think about those who have passed – I think about them to feel their presence in the moment, to use their memory as a guide in my life… to bring a part of them along with me, for all the places and experiences they were never able to have. This candle was different. I prayed to myself… I prayed to always remember the strength and fire that is within me, to think of what I have overcome in the past as a reminder that there is nothing that can break me, to remember to trust my instincts, to be guided by my conscious, and most importantly… to continue to find the courage to stay smiling, to find gratitude in each day and to keep an open heart and mind no matter what happens.

Piece of Pisa

Posted on March 27, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I’m not going to lie, I made a two day stop in Pisa before Madrid solely to get a picture with the Leaning Tower. Being that it’s only a 45 minute train ride from Florence, how could I not?!

I was grateful to be in a place that didn’t have a long ‘must see’ list – there was no rushing, scheduling or prioritizing to be done. I arrived in Pisa yesterday afternoon and spent time connecting with friends and family before beginning work. I woke up early this morning and leisurely strolled through the plazas on my way to the tower.

I saw a couple trying to take a selfie and offered them a picture taking trade. It turns out they are from San Jose… small world indeed. Then in line, I met a lovely mother and daughter from Los Angeles. I spent most of my morning chatting on top of the tower and touring the cathedral with them (this was the first real conversation I have had in person in 5 days). I hope one day, I get to experience a trip like this with my own mother.

In the past three days, I have seen the number 23 everywhere. It’s such a significant number to my family, that I actually have it tattoo’ed in a clock on my wrist. Seeing it in random places brings me comfort and always seems to happen when I am truly in need of that guidance.

It’s been hard to make it through each day knowing that I can’t share it with the one person I want to talk with the most. It’s nice to have someone that cares about every bit of your day – the funny accidents… the trivial complaints… the moments that make you sad, angry or happy… even the most mundane moments. This is the worst and loneliest part of breaking up.

Moments in Pisa:
-I strolled the streets of Pisa early in the morning, happening upon a busy farmer’s market, quaint shops and adorable coffee houses.
-I climbed 250 steps up a 7 tiered spiral staircase to the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the gravity of the tilt and the wear of the stairs actually making me feel like I was navigating my way home after a long night of drinking.
-The Pisa Cathedral is surprisingly the most stunning church I have visited in Europe, it brought me to tears (granted, that’s not difficult to do these days).
-I got completely lost and had given up the search of a mural I really wanted to see. In defeat, I rounded the corner to get gelato and it was right there in front of me. The Tuttomondo mural on the Sant’Antonio Abate church by Keith Haring reminded me that I am a part of something bigger than myself.
-5 minutes after I stepped in the house for work, it started to thunder and rain heavily… for once I wasn’t stuck walking in it (my newly purchased rain jacket has already paid itself off tenfold)! It always seems to rain only on my last day in each place of Italy I have been.

Food Highlights:
-my final meal of Italy, spaghetti alla carbonara (I had to get my favorite one last time)
-eating my last gelato and sipping on a cappuccino while watching a street performer that made me laugh for the first time in 6 days (http://youtu.be/LJ_2stcelZc)

Language Highlights:
the are two phrases I had to repeat this week, seemingly harmless but incredibly heartbreaking given the situation
–I love you: ti amo
–Goodbye: arrivederci

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 8
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 112
CURRENCIES: 5

Florence… on my own again

Posted on March 26, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

While I would have preferred to shut myself off to the world and get lost in a pint of ice cream while crying hysterically to every RomCom Netflix has to offer… That just wasn’t an option. I’m smack in the middle of my three month Eurotrip with five days in the beautiful city of Florence… this once in a lifetime endeavor. I gave myself the first night here to be alone, to drown in my sadness. It took so much of me to get out of bed the next morning, knowing I had to find the strength to bear through my pain and do what I came here to do… to explore, to get lost and to experience as much possible.

Florence is the first place where I didn’t have any friends to visit or didn’t try to make friends as I had in Berlin, Warsaw, Krakow and Prague. I wanted to be as alone as I felt. I needed quiet, to sit with my incessant thoughts and over-analyzations. I had to soak in my feelings of sorrow, disappointment, hurt and anger… embracing every aspect of them before I could begin to let that heavy weight and burden go knowing that they are all valid but useless emotions.

In these days, I wandered until my feet ached, I climbed a whole lot of stairs, I ate, I drank, I saw beauty in many forms and on my last evening, I walked the heart of the city at midnight for an hour in the pouring rain, allowing myself to give in to deep, guttural sobs… to feel the pain in every part of my body and heart.

I am not sure how a week can feel so long and so short at the same time. I threw myself back into work in the evenings and spent the days touring. I took myself on dates… I ate alone for the first time, a full three course meal seated in an empty restaurant… I went to museums to stand in awe of David and beautiful Renaissance paintings… I did my hair and makeup, threw on the only dress I have with me and went to the opera.

I was alone physically but received such an outpouring of love from close friends, family and even some people I barely know… it reminded me of what I have built, this tapestry of life I have weaved of experiences and human connections. I have worked hard to be where I am… physically and emotionally. I wasn’t always happy, I actually didn’t used to think life was worth living. It took years of work, introspection and patience to become the brave, open and smiling person that I am now. Happiness is a conscious effort, a practice of every day gratitude. I am grateful to be exactly who and where I am. I am grateful for the people in my life, for the inspiration and the encouragement. It reminds me that I am not really alone and gives me the strength I need to continue on and embrace this adventure.

Moments in Florence:
-On the first day, I walked along the Arno river and across the Ponte Vecchio. I listened to a violinist play Frank Sinatra’s ‘My Way’. It could not have been or felt more perfect.
-I saw the Fountain of Neptune, climbed the stairs to view the city from the Piazzale Michelangelo and got lost in the alleys.
-I toured San Lorenzo’s Basilica – built in 393 and reconstructed in 1418. I saw works by Donatello and Michelangelo in this beautiful church.
-I woke up early to avoid lines and climbed 463 steps to the top of the Duomo as monks chanted in the church below. I then climbed 152 more steps to the top of the bell tower for a better view of the Duomo. I lit a candle in the Santa Maria Basilica then explored the crypt that lies beneath it.
-I enjoyed the solitude of a private patio for work and reflection.
-I was smacked in the face with the smell of leather as I roamed San Lorenzo’s market and haggled for a new pair of sunglasses to replace the ones I lost.
-I saved an older gentlemen from being pick pocketed on a bus.
-I visited the Galleria dell’Accademia where I saw instruments, statues and paintings that were centuries older than America. I saw my family’s lucky #23 on a harpsichord from the 18th century which was a sign I needed (the number also came up 3 more times that day). I marveled at the sheer size and beauty of Michelangelo’s David.
-I got lost in the Galleria degli Uffizi. I bargained for them to let me in 2 1/2 hours earlier than my reservation was for and I’m grateful I did. It’s a place you could easily spend all day. There are long hallways and over 100 rooms (then offshoots of rooms in those rooms). Everything is art… the art itself, the ceilings, the floors… It’s like walking in a giant art maze. I tried to soak it all in but it was a bit overwhelming and stuffy, I was happy to be back out in fresh air after 2 hours. It’s easily my favorite museum, one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. The art is indescribably beautiful. I was in awe at the size and detail in these works. Boticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’ was incredible to see in person.
-I waited for a bus in the rain when a 4’8” grandmother (and that’s being generous with those inches) approached and spoke to me. I just smiled and gave shrug (I couldn’t understand what she said but I could tell it was a comment about me getting soaked). She smiled back and extended her arm as high as she could to reach the umbrella over my head. She’ll never know how much this gesture of kindness meant to me.
-I listed to Mozart, Amadeus and selections from famous operas (La Traviata, La Bohème, Tosca, Madame Butterfly, The Marriage of Figaro, and the Barber of Seville) in the beauty and acoustics of the Santa Monaca Church while drinking champagne.

Food highlights:
-I ate Tuscan tomato bread soup at a family owned restaurant. My server, Tony, works in LA as a chef and was home visiting his family for a few months. He brought me the food his mother made with pride and shared a glass of prosecco he and his brother made with me.
–Cornetto, the Italian croissant. I ate it fresh from the oven with a cappuccino on a crisp morning.
-I had milk with honey & sesame and coffee crunch gelato at Perché No which was voted one of the best in Florence.

Language highlights:
–Life is beautiful: La vita è bella
–Please: Per favore
–How much?: Quanto costa? A necessity for haggling in the market. Always express your disdain for the first price they give, pause a moment and state what you’d like to pay for the item. If they say no, place it down, say thank you and slowly walk away. 90% of the time, they’ll call you back with ‘okay. okay.’

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 7
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 110
CURRENCIES: 5

Fearless?

Posted on March 24, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I got dressed in a hurry at 7am this morning after 3 hours of sleep to beat the rush to climb the Duomo. When I got home, I noticed I was wearing the socks my dear friend and fellow heroine, Nicola, gave me on my birthday. They made me smile but the truth is that I am full of fear. It’s what makes me human. But in the wise words of ‪Nelson Mandela‬,

“I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear.“

I am strong not because I am fearless but because I don’t let those fears stand in the way of the life I want to lead. ‪

Heartbreak in Venice

Posted on March 22, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

As the final days of our vacation and our relationship approached… it was hard to focus on enjoying Venice. We had three nights and three days left to spend together. We had some bad luck in these days with getting ripped off by restaurants, receiving a 52 euro ticket because we forgot to ‘validate’ our return trip from Murano and with the toilet at our AirBnb (I won’t go into details, but there were some moments that were both disgusting and hilarious). It didn’t feel as easy and light as it had earlier in the week.

We had a stunning apartment with a terrace overlooking the canal. Each morning, I took a few moments alone up there to breathe and to do my best at keeping my shit together. It felt like the universe was giving us conflicting signals. We bought a lock in Cinque Terre that Jon was etching at lunch and when he tested the lock… it was broken and wouldn’t open. At that moment, as if in a movie, the radio (which had been on so low it was inaudible during our entire meal) started blaring Taylor Swift’s ‘Blank Space’ right at the ‘Is it going to be forever or is it going to go down in flames?’ part. We were silent for a moment then burst into laughter that lasted for awhile… then tears. We bought another lock and headed to the Ponte dell’Accademia (the bridge famous for having over 20,000 locks on it)… They had all been cut off. Jon climbed the side of a beautiful theater close by to lock it to the gated window in hopes that the lock would remain for years to come as a symbol of our bond. Life can be so fickle and poetic.

We wandered through Venice, holding hands… embracing these final days. It was romantic… We saw the lunar eclipse (a first for me) while in search of our morning espresso and we were serenaded on a gondola ride where I met Constance, a kind, loving and adventurous older woman, who I am pretty sure is exactly who I’ll be in 50 years (or at least who I aspire to be).

On our last night, we heard both of our songs played at the bar… I begged for Jon to dance with me, feeling as if my heart was in a vice being squeezed tighter and tighter with each musical note and just wanting to be held close. He was too sober to oblige.

The next morning, we were fairly silent over our last cappuccinos and Italian pastries. We walked to the bus station in the rain. Under a bridge, we made our last declarations… accepting that it was truly over… realizing that love isn’t ‘all you need’ and that the difference in life stages and experiences were too much to overcome. I walked him to the bus that would take him to the airport. Like a script, we kissed one last time in the rain. I couldn’t bring myself to say ‘I love you’ back – I felt like if I did, it was really the end. I stood there, getting soaked, as the bus drove away… feeling my heart shatter into a million pieces.

The tears would not stop once they started flowing. Have you ever loved so deeply, you felt physical pain at its loss? I tortured myself by listening to the Valentine’s day playlist he made for me on my train ride to Florence. I thought about everything that was said and done throughout the course of our relationship… I felt the weight of all the hurt, betrayal and anger.

I feel completely and utterly broken. I allowed myself to remain in this reflection and sadness by not leaving the apartment in Florence that day. As terrible as I feel now… as much as this hurts, I am grateful to have experienced these parts of Italy with Jon. I’ve been fine traveling alone, but it was better to travel with a companion in Rome, Cinque Terre and Venice… I think you see and feel things differently when you are with someone you love there. I am glad I was able to give him the gift of seeing the world (even if just a small part of it).

Moments in Venice:
–San Marco square: a beautiful square filled with art and history… and pigeons… I couldn’t understand why people kept feeding them to get the birds to land all over them… ack
–San Marco Basilica: I may have used some sneaky moves by entering through the exit to avoid waiting in the 2 hour line (maybe the cause of our bad luck karma?), the art in the church was so beautiful… I lit another candle in memory of my loved ones
-purchasing art from a local artist
–Bridge of Sighs: we had to settle for a kiss while walking over it since our gondola did not go under it
–Rialto bridge: the shops and foods being sold, we ate and walked the entire time we were there
–Doge Palace: we got a lovely view from the canal but did not have time to go inside
–Murano: a pretty little area but not worth the $ for the water bus and the 52 euro ticket for not being able to stamp our return fare (you had to pay to get in everywhere or see anything and a lot of the glass can be seen right in Venice)
–Bacaro Jazz Bar: there is zero nightlife in Venice but we found a 2 for 1 drinks at this total dive with bras handing from the ceiling and an old Rod Stewart concert being played on the television

Favorite purchases:
–I obviously can’t share the gifts I bought but I did get a wax seal kit with a ‘J’ to go with the calligraphy set Jon bought me for Christmas and an Italian stove top espresso maker that I am very excited about and can’t wait to get back to the States to use. It was nice to lighten my load and send Jon home with some items I have purchased in 2 months of traveling and some clothes and personal items that I ended up having no need for (more room for to get more stuff – yay!).

Food Highlights:
-With the exception of one meal of sage & poppy seed ravioli and the pastries, the meals in Venice were a bit disappointing after Rome. If you wanted anything halfway decent, you had to be willing to drop $$. But our AirBnb host did suggest a pizza place around the corner that was the best I’ve had in Italy (we ate there every day).

Language Highlights:
–Excuse me: scusci (you have to say this a lot as you make your way through the narrow passages)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 6
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 106
CURRENCIES: 5

A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

Posted on March 19, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

We had one afternoon, one full day and two nights to explore Cinque Terre, a coast on the Italian Riviera consisting of five villages (Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore).

We stayed in Corniglia, climbing 365 steps to reach the town’s center as it sits the highest above the water. We were greeted by our AirBnBer’s father, Beppe. He spoke very little English but that didn’t stop him from giving us a full tour of the apartment and how to use everything in it – using hand gestures and facial expressions until we completely understood every point. He left us with coffee, tea, his homemade jam and crackers. The apartment was adorable but really not meant for anyone over 5’6″. At 6’5″, Jon spent most of his time sitting or hunched over (even in the shower).

The area really seems to take advantage of the off-season, as many shops and restaurants were closed. Unfortunately this meant that most of the hiking trails were closed as well which is what you come to Cinque Terre to do! We made the most of it. We explored our village on our first night then dined while overlooking the ridge and water. As this is a quieter area with zero nightlife, we took advantage of the evenings to relax… to cuddle up with a movie and get some very needed sleep after the hustle of Rome.

On our full day, we used the local train to visit each village since most trails were closed. We saw churches, ruins of castles, beaches and more… We ate gelato and soaked our feet in the Caspian Sea… We peeked our heads into shops, loving the handmade items and the boutiques… We got more gelato and started our hike from Vernazza to Monterosso. It was so warm, I couldn’t imagine how hot would be in summer. We came across small ledges and adorable bridges. We saw stunning views of the villages. We watched the sun begin to set as we arrived in Monterosso and drank wine by the water in the final moments of it’s descent.

It was perfect. It was romantic. I got lost in each moment then the reality of sharing in it with my ex-ish boyfriend began to set in. It was easy to sink back into ‘us’, but what divided us originally came to the surface again. We had a few long talks about everything there could possibly be to talk about. My heart was beginning to tear again but I wanted to enjoy my last few days with the man that I love so dearly, even if it meant there was no future. I had to reset my brain to focus on enjoying this time together.

Moments in Cinque Terre:
–Using a bidet for the first time… I’m not sure if I did it right but it sure did feel wrong.
-Taking the train to each village and walking around… though they are close, they are all unique and have distinct vibes and sights.
-Eating gelato and hiking. Does it get any better?
-The views from on the hike from Vernazza to Monterosso.
-Finding another random cat sanctuary on our hike… Why are there so many strays in Italy?

Food and drink highlights:
-We had the tastiest gelato at the beginning of our hike in Vernazza… we ate gelato every day but this was our favorite.
-The food was not worth mentioning except for one dish… this region is known for their pesto and we certainly discovered why (I wish I knew their secret)!
-We had wine made from the grapes in the region, that was a treat!

Language highlights:
–hand gestures: they can communicate more than you’d think (especially if you are Italian!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 4
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 103
CURRENCIES: 5

When In Rome

Posted on March 17, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I have been taking random full or half days here and there along my trip but fair consistently working 40 – 50 hours a week while traveling. I’ve been touring all day, working all afternoon and evening then partying all night while also planning for the next parts of the trip (transport to the next place, accommodations when I get there, bus and train research for while I’m there and creating a list of the ‘absolutely have’ to see and do’s)… all by myself. It’s exhausting to say the least… trying to exist and be present in one moment while planning the next. So I was grateful to not only have a travel companion for a bit but also to take a real vacation away from the computer and to have full days to do with as I please.

For Christmas, I gifted my boyfriend of a year money for a passport and the offer of a ticket to meet me in Europe… anywhere and anytime he’d like. I realized that we might not stay together as the different stages of life we were in were dragging us further and further apart, but I wanted him to have the experience of traveling abroad. I have wanted to see the world my whole life, but up until two years ago, I never thought I would have the opportunity. Jon works so hard and does his best to be a good man in a world where that may not always get you very far… I wanted him to know that it is possible and real, that hopefully life won’t always be so difficult. We did end up breaking up right before I left for the international part of my trip, the unknown of what would happen when I came back was too much to bear and worry about while I was traveling. But we kept in touch – I thought it would be troublesome to have to keep in contact while traveling before I left, but when I got to my first foreign speaking country and had that mini-meltdown, I was so grateful to have the support and encouragement throughout the day (I’m able to text internationally). It’s like I had home with me, even 5,800 miles away. He decided to take me up on the offer and we began planning a week in Italy.

I arrived a few hours before he did, seeing the beauty of a sunset in Rome on the hour long bus ride from the airport. I walked through cobbled alleys to meet Pietro, our AirBnB host, and had a brief but lovely conversation. He thankfully pointed me in the direction of his favorite pizza place as I was starving and knew Jon would be too when he arrived at 11pm. When I got home with the food after an exhausting day of traveling (including the sketchy cab experience and frustrating airport situations), I saw that a smiley face had been drawn on the box from the older waiter who told me I had a beautiful smile… it made my day and was a great start to the trip.

They say ‘Rome wasn’t built in a day’ but it is very possible to walk it in such! We walked over 25,000 steps every day we were in Rome (according to Jon’s FitBit). We spent 3 1/2 days strolling and stuffing our faces. I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to enjoy Italian food in the states again.

Moments in Rome:
–Strolling along the streets of Rome… seeing so many beautiful sights, archways and statues (more than would be worth noting and boring you)
–Fontana di Trevi: though under construction, I was still able to through in a coin and make my wish that I might one day return!
–The Pantheon: the columns on the outside, the art on the inside
–The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument: the building itself was stunning and we took the elevator to the top floor to get a great panoramic view of Rome
–Circus Maximus: at first we couldn’t understand why people were taking pictures of a dirty, random field, but then we figured it out… it’s pretty cool to know that it’s where the chariot races were held!
–Largo di Torre Argentina: remains of the old theater where Caesar was killed, now a ‘no-kill’ shelter for homeless cats… ironic?
–The Colosseum: architecturally stunning and incredible to imagine what it was centuries ago (minus all the awful death, ya know)
-walking down Tevere River at night (which is probably everything every tour book warns you against) and coming across a group of sketchy people… deciding we’d pass normally and (I took out my spoon for defense) then their dogs started barking and we hightailed it in the opposite direction
-we had terrible, rude service but a delicious cocktail at Barnum Cafe, danced to decade old music at Sloppy Sam’s (motto: classy in the front, sloppy in the back) after jager bombs and gross fruity shots (as it were college all over again) then fancy cocktails (including a proper Sazerac) at The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy (it’s hard to find and the bouncer peeks through a slider when you ring… we are official card-carrying members now)
–Terme di Caracalla and the baths: ruins of roman baths… the area is huge and even what remains is beautiful, I can only imagine what it would have been like
–Piramide di caio cestio: an ancient pyramid from 18 B.C. built as a tomb for a religious leader, it felt pretty random but it was cool to see A pyramid even if it’s not THE pyramids
–Campo di Fiori: we were staying just a few minutes away from this square which is lively during the day with vendors and again at night with restaurants and bars
–Vatican Museum: the Egyptian exhibition, seeing a Van Gogh painting, the paintings and statues from several hundred or even thousand years B.C. and obviously… the Sistine Chapel
-after hours of walking around in the rain, the jacket my mom lent me was not holding up and the two layers under it were also soaked… luckily a North Face store was nearby and had a 50% off sale… sorry mom, but maybe your jacket is keeping a homeless woman in Rome warm now?
-on our last day, with full bellies from Dino e Toni’s, we trekked over an hour and up many hills in the rain to find ‘the keyhole‘ (a recommendation from Arnee)… this inconspicuous door gave us a beautiful cylindrical view of green shrubs and the Vatican (which is on the other side of the city)… even in the cloudy weather, the view was worth the hassle

Recommendation:
–Buy your tickets in advance for the Vatican museum and book the earliest tour… even with our tickets early in the morning, we dealt with an insane crowd. We ended up not going into to Saint Peter’s Basilica after the museum because the line was so long (and this is the off season) and we kept being harassed by men selling umbrellas and selfie sticks and ‘tour guides’ trying to sell you a ’tour’ for 20 euro when the entrance is free (the last guy was such a dick, we actually just had to walk away).
–Beware of the scooters. They will mow your ass down without hesitation.

Food highlights:
–Sette Oche: baked potatoes with different types of cheese, pork covered with pancetta, spaghetti alla gricio, salami pizza, wine, espresso and limoncello (the best aperitif there is!)
–Gelato every day… it’s so different than what I expected (I thought it was fruity and more like sorbet, instead it is creamy and comes in all sorts of amazing flavors… it’s better than ice cream!)
–Luzzi’s for Lunch: thanks to Mel for the suggestion… we had melon & prosciutto, phenomenal pizza and the tastiest lasagna I’ve ever had
–Pompeii: a taster selection of 4 tiny tiramisu 4 taster and canolis that we ate on the Spanish Steps… does it get any more Roman than that?!
-Babington’s Tea Room: I was so exhausted, I fell asleep mid-pour and spilt hot water into my lap… classy
–The night we had two dinners: at the first place we had minestrone, zucchini blossoms (with anchovies… yuck), fried artichoke, spaghetti carbonara (my favorite dish) and a bottle of wine… at the second restaurant we had rolled pasta stuffed with spinach & ricotta, meatballs, another bottle of wine, prosecco (my favorite drink) and grappa
-lunch at Dino e Tony… this was so amazing that it’s going to get it’s own post… seriously

Language highlights:
-Hearing my last name pronounced by the airport limo driver… as it should be!
-Hello and goodbye: ciao!
-Thank you: grazie!
-Fuck you: vaffanculo (I knew this one already from being babysat by my great great great aunt and namesake, but it was funny to hear and recognize everywhere!)

AIRPORTS: 13
FLIGHTS: 15
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 6
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 101
CURRENCIES: 5

A lunch worth a post of its own

Posted on March 17, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

Have you ever had a meal so good that it deserved it’s own blog post? I have. Jon’s friend recommended Dino e Toni’s in Vatican City… he did not, however, give us any clue about what to expect. After a beautiful morning in the Vatican Museum and a stressful afternoon trying to get into Saint Peter’s Basillica, we made our way to this restaurant. From the outside, it seemed like nothing special (if it wasn’t a recommendation, I probably wouldn’t have given it a second glance). Upon walking in, we noticed there was flour on the floor to prevent us from slipping after coming in from the pouring rain (Italians really like to use their resources). The decor was minimal but charming. It was a small restaurant with long tables and chairs, cafeteria style.

We were greeted by an older man who spoke no English. He began rambling to us and we nodded our heads and smiled, agreeing to the ‘alla casa’ special as the others around us had. We had NO idea what was about to take place.

They brought wine.

Then they brought out ‘appetizers’ to share…
-potato croquets
-fried nugget shaped foods (one was sweet and one was mushroom maybe… truthfully, we have no idea but they were delicious)
-slices of salami & prosciutto
-a spinach and cheese bread
-and pizza with four different kinds of toppings (a pizza… as an appetizer… this should have tipped us off…)

We were getting pretty full. Then they served us each a bowl of rigatoni alla gricia (pasta with pepper, parmesan & bacon).

Followed by another bowl each of rigatoni covered in the best tomato sauce I’ve ever had and thick cut bits of bacon.

They brought us meatballs and a deep fried eggplant to share. The servers (all older Italian men) were constantly bustling and belting out serenades whenever the mood struck.

The Brits next to us were already struggling at this point. One of the waiters came and yelled ‘Mangia! Mangia!’ (Eat! Eat!) as they were caught trying to hide some food under other plates (I don’t even think they stock to go containers). We were forced to finish even the tail of the artichoke. The struggle became real as I could literally feel my stomach expanding. We joked about being nervous every time they rounded the corner, terrified and excited that there would be more food for us.

They came and asked ‘carne or pesce?’ (meat or fish?). We chose carne and received pork with golden, roasted potatoes. Jon was a champ and finished most of this one by himself, I had to tap out.

We sat for awhile until two shots glasses and a bottle of Alagna Zibibbo were placed in front of us. I assumed it was an aperitif, so we each had a shot and sat for awhile longer. We chatted with the ladies to our left, Agathe and Cami. They had just begun their meal and we had to give them a warning. They were kind and offered for me to visit them in the South of France (which I just may do!).

Then came the pastries for Jon and I…
-fruit tarts
-cookies
-flan
-bread pudding
-a shot of espresso with ice cream

I had to start wrapping food in napkins and stuffing it my purse because we were close to vomiting from being so full. We sat for awhile, digesting and chatting over espresso. As we were leaving I hugged my new friends and the waiter ran up for a big hug and a kiss goodbye (both cheeks as they do in Italy). I felt like I was a niece among this Italian family, headed home after Sunday dinner.

The meal was an absurdly good value… about $80 USD for the two of us (as noted on the calculator that was handed to us when it was time for the ‘check’)… it took hours to walk off the grotesque fullness. But the food was the best I’ve had in Italy and the experience even better.

If you find yourself in Rome (or maybe plan a trip just for this meal – it’s worth it!)… visit our friends, Dino e Toni (Via Leone IV, 60, 00192 Roma). Note: I’m not actually sure if we met Dino or Toni, but there was something that gave me the sense that we had… or perhaps all the servers there just embodied their spirit!

Czech Me Out

Posted on March 13, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

There is so much beauty and history every where you look in Prague. I have loved every place I visited so far, but there was something that really captured me here. I AirBnB’ed an apartment in the heart of Old City.. I wandered aimlessly and purposefully. I was happy to completely unpack in my own space (and to be able to walk around naked, let’s be honest). I had five days to give myself to this city. I fell in love with not only Prague, but who I was in Prague. I was bold, brazen and open – tough and tender. I had conversations that brought me to tears and moments where I had to ruffle my feathers up (mainly a close call where I had to jump out of a moving cab and yell ‘Fuck you!’ to a taxi driver). Prague represented the yin and the yang in me, it brought out the best of both sides in my heart and in my personality. I felt completely comfortable in all aspects of myself, being able to tap into every part of who I am.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s New Prague Walking Tour:
—making new friends (ahem Shia LeBeouf and Nicholas Cage)
—seeing a house that was built in 1270 where King Charles the 4th lived, King of Bohemia
—learning the history of the Gooseites, followers to an uprising against the Catholic church and the 30 year war that started over poop
—the Astronomical clock: built over 600 years ago and still working.. at the top of every hour, death rings his bell and the three men to the left turn their heads, the twelves apostles come walking about then the rooster at the top shakes his feathers and let’s out a caw
—Czechs drink more beer per person per day than any other country (surprising, eh? it’s an average of 1.5 liters which includes children in the head count)
—the theater where Mozart premiered Don Giovani, one of the few remaining theaters in the world he has played
—the lights that illuminate Prague Castle at night were a present from Mick Jagger and Keith Richards
—a small corner block in the Jewish ghetto is the only place Jews were allowed to bury their dead in WWII, they kept having to raise the ground more and more to bury over 120,000 people who died during this time
—Prague was Hitler’s retirement plan, he wanted it to be a center for art and culture.. he moved all industries away from it so that it wouldn’t a bomb target in the war… he allowed the Jewish Quarter to remain so that when the Final Solution was ’successful’, it would act as a museum to an extinct race.

Highlights and lessons from the Sandeman’s Castle Tour:
—Prague Castle: began construction in 880 and took over a thousand years of work until it’s completion in 1929
—a hilarious story of the Czech President who was caught stealing a pen during a televised news conference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xo89lsjIx2I
—St. Vita’s Cathedral: built in 1343, it’s the biggest church in Czech and one of the biggest in Europe.. we got to listen in through the whispering walls and a favorite of my trip, see an original painting by Alphonse Mucha in one of the windows
—I got to shoot a mid-evil crossbow and hit a bulls-eye on the third and last shot
—saw a sword from 1400 B.C. among other mid-evil weapons, torture devices and armor

Moments in Prague:
—strolling the Charles Bridge which was built in the 1300s… looking at the beautiful views and statues while headed to see the John Lennon wall (finding some inspiration I needed to read there)
—Waking up with a cut and black eye after the Pub Crawl (the crawl itself was pretty shitty, but the company and dancing made it fun… I still have no clue how the injury occurred)
—visiting an Australian pie shop opened by tour guide and now friend (how I miss Australian pies)
—discussing love and loss at the Prague Beer Museum with John Paul
—a last minute but phenomenal day trip to Kutna Hora with the friend I met on the walking tour (Adam) and a great couple he met at the hostel (Maria and Leland)… we barely made it to the train after running to the regional train, running to a cab, hopping out then running to buy tickets and find the right train… we visited the Sedlec Ossuary (a 13th century church which is decorated with the bones of over 40,000 people), Saint Barbara’s Cathedral and walked over the second Charles Bridge… we also happened upon a petting zoo where I got to shake hands with an elephant and pet a zebra’s mane
—lunch in Kutna Hora: we had a King’s Feast of five kinds of meat served on a sword, wild boar goulash, delicious sides and locally brewed beer for $17 each… seriously mind-blowing
—the amazing flea market we stumbled upon after returning from our trip, I purchased some beautiful art from a local artist and was gifted a table clock replica of the Astronomical Clock from Adam
—drinking at ‘The Pub’ with my tour friends and a Sicilian named Fabrizio (who so kindly invited me to visit!): they have beer taps at table that keep track of what you drink – it gives everyone a number to create a competition (and naturally, I won)… I may have also saved us from a fight with a Czech biker gang at said bar
—dancing… so much dancing until 3am on my last night in town (starting at a hip hop place and ending at a huge techno club where I got hit in the face… again… while dancing)

Food highlights:
–Trdelnik: dough wrapped on a cylinder and cooked over an open flame then rolled in cinnamon (I ate it everyday)
–Beer: cheap (like 50 cents a liter cheap, locally made and delicious)

Language highlights:
-Bubble blower: bublyfouk (pronounced boo-blay fuck)
-Saying hello to a friend: AHOY! (You must also swing your fist in an upward motion and stomp with your foot… like a pirate)
–Thank you: dee koi you
-Cheers: Na Zdravi
–Defenestration: The act of throwing someone out a window, coined in Prague (due to an interesting and rich history of practicing the act)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 3
BUSES: 3
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 5
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 97
CURRENCIES: 5

Quickie in Kraków

Posted on March 9, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I arrived in Kraków late Saturday evening and woke up early today (Monday) to head to Prague. It was a quick but amazing trip. My entire time in Poland only amounted to 3 full days but the impressions it left on my heart and mind will last for a life time.

On Sunday, I toured Auschwitz and the salt mines. I’ll share a bit about the salt mines below, but I’ve decided to write a separate post about my time in Auschwitz at a later date. I need to fully digest the thoughts and feelings I had while there before I can even begin to find the words to express them. For now, I can say that I thought I understood the Holocaust and the history of what happened before arriving but after visiting, I can understand nothing of the horrors that occurred. I cannot fathom that people could have capacity for such evil and even worse, that in other parts of the world, there is still such cruelty and dehumanization happening at this very moment. I could go on but I need to stop as the tears have already started and I need to regroup enough to get through this seven hour trek to Prague. Deep breath.

Okay! So as if by fate, following my post about Warsaw and this ‘female empowerment’ theme of my trip, yesterday happened to be International Women’s Day. After an emotionally draining and physically exhausting day of touring, I was happy to decompress by walking around Krakow with my host, Ashley – another strong, inspiring woman I’ve met on this trip. She’s a Canadian, living with her love (a Frenchman), studying to be a doctor in Poland. #Badass. We discussed life, love and traveling as we dined on pierogis and strolled through the incredible streets of Krakow, feeling as if I traveled through time with the history surrounding me (this area was not as affected physically by WWII). Although the adventurer in me wanted to see more, I was so grateful to call it an early evening and allow my mind and body to rest.

Poland – I miss you and your food already, thank you for having me. Life – thank you for giving me this precious time here and these unforgettable experiences. Universe – thank you for allowing me to be born where I was and when I was. I am now, more than ever, truly understanding what my freedom means. And what it costs. I am SO incredibly lucky in ways I never even knew to appreciate before.

Moments in Krakow:
–Kopalnia Soli Wieliczka Salt Mines: A 17th century salt mine, that mined commercially until 1996 (they still take salt from the mine but only in the water to prevent flooding). We took 380 steps down to the first level. There are 9 levels total, we went as far as the 3rd. The mine is 327 meters deep with over 300 kilometers of tunnels and 2,000 chambers. I saw several statues carved of rock salt, but most impressively was a chapel carved in the 18th century pick axes. It is still in use for weddings and concerts. I threw a Zloty over my shoulder into a salt lake to make a wish while listening to Chopin (romantic, eh?). To get back up, we took a 4 tiered elevator, where I crammed in to one chamber with 9 people for the scariest 1 minute ride of my life through the shaft and up to the surface.
–Rynek Square: Coincidentally, the president of Poland was giving a speech in the center. There were beautiful flowers being sold everywhere and stunning buildings

Language highlights:
–Freedom: a word I’ve always known but never fully understood until this trip

Food highlights:
-Potato and onion pierogis (seriously my new favorite food)
-Zapienkanki in Kazimierz (baguette pizza from the Jewish Ghetto)

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 2
BUSES: 2
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 4
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 93
CURRENCIES: 4

One Night in Warsaw

Posted on March 7, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

I only spent 37 hours in Warsaw, but every moment was filled with such love and delight. There was something about this place that was instantly so familiar to me. I am on the train to Krakow now.. part of me wishing that I’d had more time in Warsaw but the other part of me knowing that it was perfect just as it was.

I had my second couchsurfing experience with a woman named Gośka, a 23 year old medical student. I cannot explain her energy, her pure love for meeting new people and for existing in the moment. I fell in love with her instantly. She picked me up from the bus station at 6am and after a few hours of napping, we had what I can only describe as a whirlwind of powerful conversation, love and gratitude in its most genuine form.

I initially decided to come to Poland solely to see a project my best friend, Savana, spent three summers working on – the recreation of a wooden synagogue’s structure and the murals that adorned the inside which was burned down in WWII. What I did not anticipate was that there were bigger plans for me than just a trip to the Museum of the History of Polish Jews to see this project. I was meant to meet Gośka, to have this beautiful soul in my life.

Gośka and I walked around for hours, talking and laughing. It felt as if we’d always known each other. That evening, we had a delicious meal and met up with her friends for drinks. The people I meet keeping asking me what I notice is different about their country compared to America. But truthfully, I don’t see many differences. Maybe it’s because I am not looking for them? Or is it because I am instead searching for what makes us similar? For the common threads of humanity that connect us?

On the way home, at 4am, I stopped Gośka to take a deep breath and to remember the moment we were in. I asked her if she’d ever had that feeling of ‘I am exactly where I am meant to be’ or ‘I am exactly who I am meant to be’… I said, “these are the moments in life we have to hold on to because they mean that everything up until this point… all the good things, the adventures, the tragedies, the heartbreaks… have led us here”. We stood with our feet on either side of a man hole to commemorate the moment (it seemed appropriate at the time – perhaps due to the 17 shots of vodka we consumed?). I said, “remember this very second and when things are difficult, remember that life is only preparing us for more moments like this… to appreciate how beautiful life really is“.

The more I am grateful for these moments, the happier I become and the happier I become, the more moments like this I seem to have. It’s a blessed circle. With the strong women I am meeting and the statues on display of these warrior women I see everywhere in Europe, I feel like I am on a tour of female empowerment. I am a woman, traveling ‘alone’ but making communities in each place I visit – embracing the people and the culture in each destination. Choosing to create the life I want to lead – knowing that happiness is a conscious effort and choice.

As my train was departing, Goska gave me a book entitled ‘Led by Destiny‘ which is the story of two American backpackers. I cannot wait to read it and to see when in life I will see my Polish sister again. The title of the book could not be more appropriate as… deep breath… I am right where and who I am meant to be… in this very moment. Without the previous moments in my life that were painful and lonely, I would not appreciate this journey so deeply. Sometimes, the only way to change your life is to change your outlook on it… this will transform everything.

Moments in Warsaw:

-Goska made homemade hummus and fresh orange juice for my first lunch.

–Royal Lazienki Park: We walked around to see this beautiful park on a crisp day. We saw amazing sculptures and ‘the palace on the water’ but the highlight was certainly the animals. Poland has THE CUTEST squirrels I have seen. They are smaller than American squirrels and red with tufted hair on their ears. They are so friendly and adorable, I wish I could have one as a pet. Also in this park, it is common for peacocks to wander freely. We came across one who was proudly strutting his feathers, turning almost as if he were showing how handsome he was. It was one of the most majestic and wonderful moments in my life.

-Walking through Old Town with a coffee in hand, discussing life and love with Goska.

-Going from one small, cramped bar to another to take shots of flavored vodka in each. I am impressed I was alive this morning. Two of Goska’s friends joined us and we talked so freely about many topics. I’ve learned that people do not hate Americans the way we think they do but that actually it’s very common to feel like other places have bad ideas of your country.

-Goska and I making a toast to our mothers: “to the women we swore we’d be nothing like as girls but are now proud to be like as women.”

–Museum of the History of Polish Jews: I met Savana’s friend, Olga, who worked on the mural with her and two Americans visting from Paris where they study law (and I hope to see them again!). The museum just opened last year and everything about it was awe-inspring… the architecture, the exhibits, the history. There was a Purim celebration and I got prune hamentashen to celebrate. It made me happy because I love them so much as they remind me of my close friend and second mother (she makes large batches every year).

–Wilanow Royal Palace: We went to see the gardens and the palace but with luck on our side, there was an amazing light display! They used 3D projectors on the building itself, using the building’s features as a guide to tell a moving story – there is just no way to describe what we saw! It was by far one of the coolest installations I’ve ever seen. We danced and giggled through the gardens. There was an Alice in Wonderland maze and a Cinderella horse and carriage – all made of lights. It had that special feeling that happens around Christmas. Goska and Paulina had no idea there was such an event when we planned to go – it was just one of those amazing ‘you couldn’t plan this if you tried‘ moments to happen upon.

Language highlights:
–smacznego: said at the beginning of a meal
–nostrovia: cheers!
–curva: bitch
–dziekuje: thank you (pronounced jen-koo-ya)

Food highlights:

–zurek: polish sour cream soup with white sausage and boiled egg

-spinach pierogis in a blue cheese sauce

-beetroot soup

-strudel crepe baked with cheese

AIRPORTS: 12

FLIGHTS: 14

TRAINS: 1

BUSES: 2

STATES: 7

COUNTRIES: 4

CONTINENTS: 3

DAYS TRAVELING: 91

CURRENCIES: 4 – I feel VERY rich in Zloty 😉

Berlin, it’s been real.

Posted on March 5, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

Berlin is the first time I’ve been truly ‘alone’ on this trip (alone in the sense of not staying with friends in the places I’ve visited). I had my first couch surfing experience with a couple named Jan and Melli. I was a bit nervous at first – we grow up in such a culture of fear in the States but the more I travel, the more I am trusting my instincts and the good in other people. I don’t feel alone at all, but rather a part of something bigger than myself.

5 Days in Berlin:
-Being given ‘house shoes’ by Jan, this seems to be a very common thing in Germany
-Babies, left in carriages outside while the parents run in to grab a pastry or complete an errand… while this is normal here, I joked that there was an American on the lose with a ticking biological clock!
–My first night in Berlin: Jan and Melli made a pasta dinner, after which we sipped on scotch and discussed both German and American politics
–Highlights from the New Europe walking tour with a Brit named Rob McCracken: Brandenburg Gate, the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled his baby from the 3rd floor window, the Reichstag government building, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, standing 4 meters above the führerbunker where Hitler and his mistress swallowed cyanide capsules, the former headquarters of the Nazi air force (one of the only buildings remaining from this era to survive the WWII bombings), the Communist propaganda mural still up from post WWII, the Berlin Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, the French Cathedral built in 1705 and the German Cathedral built directly across from the French Cathedral in 1708 but 1 meter taller
-Seeing a bar that’s been open for 33 years straight (literally every minute of every day)
–Highlights from the 666 Anti-Pub Crawl: Yesterday bar (a super tacky retro bar right up my ally), Absinthe bar (my first ’real’ absinthe shots), Dr. Pong (where I ended up in an around the world table tennis tournament), a dance club (with music dating to the early Now CDs) – I met some fun pre-med students studying in Copenhagen and got to use my Portuguese with some Brazilians. I didn’t get home until 6:30am and needless to say, I did not make it to my 8am tour of the Reichstag the following morning.
–Highlights from Alternative Berlin’s Culture walking tour: Riding and walking for 5 hours through the neighborhoods of Prenzlauerberg, Mitte, Friedrichshain & Kreuzberg – learning of the rich, diverse and ever changing art and music culture in Berlin throughout these major historical moments.
–Strolling Alexanderplatz: stopping in at TKMaxx (ahem.. TJMaxx) to buy a warmer under layer and gloves because I did not anticipate how bitter the cold would be
–Touring of Reichstag dome (luckily being able to reschedule!): a free tour with beautiful views of Berlin
–Strolling the East Side Gallery of the Berlin wall with a coffee in hand: I spotted a Cancer Carl tag, a street artist from Oakland, CA
-Taking a bike ride with Jan to the market to grab groceries for breakfast on my last day, seeing an outdoor petting zoo on the way back in Mauer Park
-Sitting around with Jan and Melli on my last morning with full bellies and sharing stories
-Walking through a memorial to the victims that tried to cross the Berlin Wall with Jan & Melli, talking about the impact of events and war for our families and friends in the history of both Germany and America (then getting hailed on during the walk home)

Language Highlights:
-Tschüss! (pronounced like “OMG choos”)

Food Highlights:
-Currywurst
-Pizza pretzels
-Doner Kebab

Documentaries I need to check out:
-Rabbit a la Berlin
-Swing Kids
-Berlin Kids

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
BUSES: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 88
CURRENCIES: 3

(side note: if you ever travel to Berlin – make sure to ‘validate’ your ticket in separate machine, I had a close call because I didn’t realize purchasing a ticket wasn’t the same as having a valid ticket! The train and bus system is generally very easy to get around on but I recommend getting a valid pass for the amount of time you’ll be traveling, it’s just easier!)

More meat. More beer. Frankfurt. Germany.

Posted on March 1, 2015 by Jacqueline Justine

It was a brief but beautiful three days in Frankfurt, Germany. A childhood friend now lives there with her husband and I couldn’t come all this way without seeing her!

It’s been twelve years since I last saw Chelsea but it was like no time had passed. We crammed in some sight seeing amongst the catching up. I ate the best food and drank the best cocktails I’ve had on this trip this far.

I can’t help but feel so grateful for the strong, amazing women in my life. And for the friends who orbit around, sometimes gravitating closer and others far out on the rings but always a part of my universe. I am surrounded by incredible, inspiring and bold people.

Highlights from Frankfurt:
-Hours of girl talk on the couch
-The best meal I’ve had: chillischnitzel
-Walking around Frankfurt
-Boat tour of the Mein river and buildings in Frankfurt
-The loves of 90’s music everywhere, I felt right at home
-The most delicious, creative and entertaining cocktails I’ve ever had: it is seriously worth going to Frankfurt just to drink at the Bristol Bar

Language highlights:
-willage (Germans have a hard time with those v’s)
-wodka

Food highlights:
-Chillischnitzel
-Honey waffles with raspberry sauce
-Braised brisket with canoodle (sp?) & red sauerkraut
-Cheesy pretzels
-Whiskey sour with peanut butter, yogurt & topped with apple juice whipped cream
-Burnt scotch with honey & mint: Sebastian went back and forth pouring between beakers with the liquor on fire… I named it the ‘Stop. Drop. And roll.‘

AIRPORTS: 12
FLIGHTS: 14
TRAINS: 1
STATES: 7
COUNTRIES: 3
CONTINENTS: 3
DAYS TRAVELING: 84
CURRENCIES: 3

	Allen Young on On The Road Again
	Kaley on On The Road Again
	Laura on On The Road Again
	marjoriewiener on On The Road Again
	Galway and the Cliff… on One Night in Warsaw

Dreaming my reality, creating my destiny

Monthly Archives: March 2015

Eat. Pray. Love. The Sequel.

I say a little prayer for you.

Piece of Pisa

Florence… on my own again

Fearless?

Heartbreak in Venice

A short but sweet trip to Cinque Terre

When In Rome

A lunch worth a post of its own

Czech Me Out

Quickie in Kraków

One Night in Warsaw

Berlin, it’s been real.

More meat. More beer. Frankfurt. Germany.

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